91.5 W250 resto
06-08-2015, 07:24 AM
#16
Registered User
I am liking re-using the factory behind the seat speaker bracket to hold a better speaker.
I am going to look into that for the '91 W-250 reg cab I am trying to get back on the road now.
I was wondering if a 6X9 would fit? I was thinking the width would be the problem, but you got a 6.5 to fit.
I have a few 6x9 speaker, spare sets in the shop, so that would be ideal.
I am going to look into that for the '91 W-250 reg cab I am trying to get back on the road now.
I was wondering if a 6X9 would fit? I was thinking the width would be the problem, but you got a 6.5 to fit.
I have a few 6x9 speaker, spare sets in the shop, so that would be ideal.
06-08-2015, 07:32 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
The 6x9 adaptor bracket fits well enough, and the 6.5" is an inch shallower than the 6x9 on my speakers.
The 6x9 adaptor is wider than the factory bracket/grille, sticks out about 1/2" on either side. Cant see any of that anyway...
There seems to be enough clearance for the deeper 6x9 units I think it would work.
The 6x9 adaptor is wider than the factory bracket/grille, sticks out about 1/2" on either side. Cant see any of that anyway...
There seems to be enough clearance for the deeper 6x9 units I think it would work.
06-09-2015, 10:00 PM
#18
Registered User
Lookin good man.
06-11-2015, 04:20 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
I used these 4x10 to 6x9 adapters to mount on the extra studs I added. Then I stacked the 6x9 to 6.5" adapters on these adapters and mounted the 6.5" rear Infinities.
That extra height made the directional tweeters clear the factory grille.
That extra height made the directional tweeters clear the factory grille.
06-19-2015, 06:31 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Got around to the KDP as I had a couple free hours before lunch.
Made a retainer out of an old titanium wire zipper pull.
The pin was sitting 3/16" inside the bore - all good.
Few case bolts were loose though.
Couldn't get to one of them so I heat bent an old box wrench 90 degrees and welded a 3/8" drive socket to it. Worked where a crowsfoot wouldn't.
All bolts torque-tited.
New front seal, gasket and dust shield.
Thought I'd changed the tensioner and belt over Christmas but must have been on another truck.
Dayco tensioner and gold belt on there before everything reassembled.
Peace of mind :-)
Made a retainer out of an old titanium wire zipper pull.
The pin was sitting 3/16" inside the bore - all good.
Few case bolts were loose though.
Couldn't get to one of them so I heat bent an old box wrench 90 degrees and welded a 3/8" drive socket to it. Worked where a crowsfoot wouldn't.
All bolts torque-tited.
New front seal, gasket and dust shield.
Thought I'd changed the tensioner and belt over Christmas but must have been on another truck.
Dayco tensioner and gold belt on there before everything reassembled.
Peace of mind :-)
06-19-2015, 08:28 PM
#22
Registered User
Well done!
I can't say I've heard of too many people who have found the KDP moving out. Almost everyone has loose case bolts though.
I made my tab for my KDP on my 93 motor out of an old U-joint strap...worked great!
I can't say I've heard of too many people who have found the KDP moving out. Almost everyone has loose case bolts though.
I made my tab for my KDP on my 93 motor out of an old U-joint strap...worked great!
06-19-2015, 08:36 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Wish I'd heard of the KDP when I had the drivetrain on a stand this past winter.
Dang internet.
Dang internet.
06-27-2015, 02:18 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here's some more for you.
I initially drilled the adaptor to add more studs but ended up using the factory top stud to hang the 4x10 to 6x9 adaptor. It's an offset adaptor so I used the offset towards the front as there's more room there.
I zip tied the plastic epoxied 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors to the factory grilles (drilled a hole in these to hang them from the factory grille top studs.
Then I epoxied and zip tied the 6x9 to 6.5" adaptors to the 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors.
The installed height is about 3/4" more than the factory 4x10s.
Here's a pic of the offset. Not critical, as there's enough room to fit 6x9s if needed - all this would require is 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors.
Finished - looks factory -
I used spade terminals on the speaker wire ends to push into the spring terminals of the factory harness - very secure, and no need to buy Chinese adaptor harnesses.
I turned the tweeters to face the gap between the bench and the body panel and turned the bass boost switch on - the end result sounds as gutsy as the front 6x9s.
Gotta say these 4 Infinity Reference speakers are well matched to the Infinity Gold head unit - they work well at low wattage and the highs/lows are not bothered by the Cummins clatter. The rear bench doesn't seem to muffle the rear 6.5" at all.
I initially drilled the adaptor to add more studs but ended up using the factory top stud to hang the 4x10 to 6x9 adaptor. It's an offset adaptor so I used the offset towards the front as there's more room there.
I zip tied the plastic epoxied 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors to the factory grilles (drilled a hole in these to hang them from the factory grille top studs.
Then I epoxied and zip tied the 6x9 to 6.5" adaptors to the 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors.
The installed height is about 3/4" more than the factory 4x10s.
Here's a pic of the offset. Not critical, as there's enough room to fit 6x9s if needed - all this would require is 4x10 to 6x9 adaptors.
Finished - looks factory -
I used spade terminals on the speaker wire ends to push into the spring terminals of the factory harness - very secure, and no need to buy Chinese adaptor harnesses.
I turned the tweeters to face the gap between the bench and the body panel and turned the bass boost switch on - the end result sounds as gutsy as the front 6x9s.
Gotta say these 4 Infinity Reference speakers are well matched to the Infinity Gold head unit - they work well at low wattage and the highs/lows are not bothered by the Cummins clatter. The rear bench doesn't seem to muffle the rear 6.5" at all.
11-11-2015, 05:24 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
So the PDRHX35 hybrid & the PW 185 injectors went in Saturday evening with a buddy & a few beers.
Right off the bat - these injectors supposedly flow enough fuel to about 45 psi boost.
Soaking these 1 yr old units in a diesel injector cleaner for about 15-20 minutes resulted in a gelatinous mess of solvent & what looks like large gobs of anti-seize. They looked decent enough if a bit too carboned up on the tips, but I'm glad I soaked them.
This hybrid HX35 turbo works best upto 35psi though, so my injection pump is retuned for 35psi at 1200 EGT. The unit is pretty nice, I compared it to a stock HX35, it has smoother passages, chamfered openings & the pinwheel being lightened & balanced is effortless to spin.
From a standstill - grey puff of smoke when flooring it, and she will scream tires & go sideways if I let her.
Immediately after, a light brown haze till 10psi, and then just a faint scent all the way to 35psi which comes pretty quick.
The Banks Big Head Actuator is set to watergate at 22, though it fights it until about 26.
I disabled it until there's time to drag a regulated air hose out & set it to waste gate at 35psi sometime later.
Definitely worthwhile mods - can chirp tires easily going uphill in OD at 50mph.
For those wondering - there is absolutely no haze or smoke at idle with these "wrongly angled for I/C trucks" Bosch 185s - perhaps the thin .020 washers optimized the spray angle.
Props to g9297s, oldram9297, Philip & BC847 for letting me their real world experience with these PW 185s and Bosch 190s back in the day when they were the in thing.
I don't have a timing bump either, as I put that M&H dynamic timing spacer in a while back.
Right off the bat - these injectors supposedly flow enough fuel to about 45 psi boost.
Soaking these 1 yr old units in a diesel injector cleaner for about 15-20 minutes resulted in a gelatinous mess of solvent & what looks like large gobs of anti-seize. They looked decent enough if a bit too carboned up on the tips, but I'm glad I soaked them.
This hybrid HX35 turbo works best upto 35psi though, so my injection pump is retuned for 35psi at 1200 EGT. The unit is pretty nice, I compared it to a stock HX35, it has smoother passages, chamfered openings & the pinwheel being lightened & balanced is effortless to spin.
From a standstill - grey puff of smoke when flooring it, and she will scream tires & go sideways if I let her.
Immediately after, a light brown haze till 10psi, and then just a faint scent all the way to 35psi which comes pretty quick.
The Banks Big Head Actuator is set to watergate at 22, though it fights it until about 26.
I disabled it until there's time to drag a regulated air hose out & set it to waste gate at 35psi sometime later.
Definitely worthwhile mods - can chirp tires easily going uphill in OD at 50mph.
For those wondering - there is absolutely no haze or smoke at idle with these "wrongly angled for I/C trucks" Bosch 185s - perhaps the thin .020 washers optimized the spray angle.
Props to g9297s, oldram9297, Philip & BC847 for letting me their real world experience with these PW 185s and Bosch 190s back in the day when they were the in thing.
I don't have a timing bump either, as I put that M&H dynamic timing spacer in a while back.
11-12-2015, 07:12 AM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
11-14-2015, 11:10 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes we do don't we :-)
So I had a few extra grinder & Dremel wheels that wouldn't fit in the box, and decided to indulge in some butchery. Purists - be warned.
Measured, taped & cut...front bumper -
Anti-rust front & back, and edges sealed with clear industrial acrylic -
Cut, tack welded & sprayed front brackets, and mounted lamps; used clamps & nuts to hold the loom on the existing front bumper bolts -
And aimed -
Now for the rear bumper -
You can see how small the lenses are compared to the tailgate running lamps -
Cut, sprayed, sealed etc etc - I chose these lamps partially because the cut would be within the recessed groove -
Mock mounted before the final smoothing etc -
Rear brackets - the curved front face of these lamps fit almost perfectly against the curve that runs lengthwise along the rear bumper -
Wired the rear lamps to the factory cargo switch - they are way too bright to be used all the time when reversing -
Fronts - not a fan of the ricer amber, but drove 35 miles last night in sleet & ice with just the running lamps + the amber driving beams. Illuminated shoulders and beyond as well as distance, 55-70 mph, look Ma, no headlamps.
So I had a few extra grinder & Dremel wheels that wouldn't fit in the box, and decided to indulge in some butchery. Purists - be warned.
Measured, taped & cut...front bumper -
Anti-rust front & back, and edges sealed with clear industrial acrylic -
Cut, tack welded & sprayed front brackets, and mounted lamps; used clamps & nuts to hold the loom on the existing front bumper bolts -
And aimed -
Now for the rear bumper -
You can see how small the lenses are compared to the tailgate running lamps -
Cut, sprayed, sealed etc etc - I chose these lamps partially because the cut would be within the recessed groove -
Mock mounted before the final smoothing etc -
Rear brackets - the curved front face of these lamps fit almost perfectly against the curve that runs lengthwise along the rear bumper -
Wired the rear lamps to the factory cargo switch - they are way too bright to be used all the time when reversing -
Fronts - not a fan of the ricer amber, but drove 35 miles last night in sleet & ice with just the running lamps + the amber driving beams. Illuminated shoulders and beyond as well as distance, 55-70 mph, look Ma, no headlamps.