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#1 |
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Registered User
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2004 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW, 555, 6-Speed, AFE Stage II,Magnaflo 5" Exhaust, Walbro with Cat 2 Micron Filter, Edge EZ, Flux 1's, Leveled With 22.5" Wheels, EGR Flares, Oilguard By-Pass Filtration, Covermaster Shell, Awesome Audio/Video System |
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#2 |
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DTR Advertiser
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Good job and a sweet looking install. I wish my rig was that clean.
Richard
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'08 Ram 3500, QC, DRW, 4x4, 6.7L, 68RFE, Laramie ~ H&S XRT, Edge Race J/A, B&G "Modified" TCM, Goerend Twin Disc, X-Monitor, ARP 625's at 160, GDP MODS: Air-Boss 67 Grid Delete, Arctic-Heat Grid Reloc Kit, Pro-Gate 38 (open dump), Full Flow EGR/Cooler Delete, Maximizer Big Line Kit, Double-X Ladder Bars... Richard @ GDP 509-993-4923 Glacier Diesel Power.com |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I hate to pee on the parade but I think using aluminum fittings on the Cummins is a bad idea. I would think they run the risk of stress fracturing from the vibration?!? Stainless seems like a better choice but I could be wrong.
Andy
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2003 4x4 QC/HO/6-speed/4.10 |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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RBM- you do nice work. The underside of that truck's sure clean too.
Incidentally, what type of hose is that- is it marine? |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Great pics. Man that walbro seems really simple to install. That looks to be about a thousand dollars in aluminum fittings and hose under the hood there
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Well I ended up with another Dodge after three years of saying I would never own a diesel again. I hope this one is as good as the last one. 2006 QC, LWB, Auto. Totally stock. Its no longer common, now its just sense. |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Thanks guys! The belly usually isn't that clean, I just hit it with the pressure washer before I started. The hose is the Earl's 3/8" rated at 250 psi and the AN fittings are the "twist-n-lock" I believe. The by-pass looks a little crappy, but I didn't have enough fittings to do it over. Once you stick the hose in the fittng that's it, you can't pull them back out. I'll end up redoing it on down the line because it bugs the heck out of me, but she'll work for now. And realsquash, I don't think vibration on the fittings will be an issue. There's very little weight on them and the hose can jiggle along with them which will help. Plus if thier good enough for NASCAR, they're good enough for me. I do agree though stainless would be more desirable, but they are a little harder to find. I am more worried about ceasure from corrosion, but I doubt that would happen overnight. |
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#7 |
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Banned
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I've been running the earl's fittings with -8 stainless braided line on my truck for the last 2 years and haven't had a problem with anything of them breaking.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Very nice! I agree, that Walbro pump looks super easy to install!
Where in NOVA are you located? I'm in Springfield...
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05 Ram 2500 CTD610 NV5600 4.10 4x4 QC SWB . . . . . . . . . . HOT Juice, ConFE, GDP 392 Comp, S&B, Straight Pipe. . . . . . . . . . . Leveled, Bilsteins, MTZ 315s. 97 TJ Lifted. Locked. Unstocked. The tow toy. Back under the knife! |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Good job, like the an fittings. The fass block you said leaked until strong armed? Did you use the original lift pump o-ring. So now you get to test the long term factor on the wally pump. Hope all goes well as I too like wrenching and improving my rig.
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03.5 2500 SLT 4x4, RCab LB, 305/555, DTT48RE, Billet Flex Plate-Tripple TQ-Billet input, 3.73, BD Killer B & exhaust manifold, Smarty, MBRP 4" stainless exhaust, AFE StageII PG7 intake, Isspro EV gauges,pyro/boost/trans/fuel, Fass 150/95, Bilsteins, Rhino liner, Leer Canopy. |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Very clean install, RBM. Well done!
Regarding the FASS lift pump elimination piece, the FASS-2 instructions recommend putting some oil on the insert prior to installation to prevent the o-ring from shifting and leaking. I did that on mine and it was leak free without having to get medieval on the wrench.
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Pickup: '03 2500 SLT QC LWB 2wd - 250/460 SO, 48re, 3.73/anti-spin, 57k miles, ARE Cap, Bedrug, Kilby Condenser Guard, Power Tailgate Lock, EVS-II with IT-s, Autometer Phantom Fuel/Trans/Oil/Boost gauges, Walbro lift pump, fuel tank vent mod, CAT 2-micron fuel filter, 4" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, Putnam XDR Forklift: '79 Yale GDP030 3000# - with Mazda 2.5L XA 4cyl diesel Municipal Tractor: '92 Trackless MT-V with Cummins 4B diesel |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Very nice install. Those blue lines really pop in the pictures. Either you're a pro photographer or your truck is really too darn clean... WOW!
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05' DodgeRam2500CTD4x4 Too much stuff to print 617rwhp/1200+trq on Dynojet Peace thru superior firepower |
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#12 |
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DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Posts: 2,647
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Rather,
Nice job, but you didn't mention the wiring. All I see is a nice harness coming to the pump. Did you just extend the wires that normally power the stock LP? It seems like the amp draw should be close enough as long as the pump doesn't dead head and run up to 100 PSI. I'm on my second stock LP now and need to get on with the new install. Thanks, John
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John I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt. '04 2500 4WD std cab, HO, Smarty, 48RE, TC, VB, Hytec pan, Dynatrac, '08 steering linkage, track bar, '08 H2s, Toyo MT 295/70 E, Walbro, gauges, Brakesmart, exhaust "out the side", intake tube, billet filter lid, Kilby guard, KYB front, Rancho 9000s rear, Timbrens, PW flares, front 1" lift, Wet Okole, wheel well liners, debadged, splatted bugs, hood pal. |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I ordered the FASS harness from Rip, but I haven't gotten it yet, that will be the permanent solution. For now I just have a keyed power source triggering a relay, so when the key is turned to the on position, the Walbro runs. I think someone else one here wired it to the cigarette lighter circuit to get a signal since it switched on and off via the ignition switch. |
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#14 |
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DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Posts: 2,647
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Rather,
Thanks for the reply. That seems like the safe way to wire it (relays, etc.) but it sure would be nice to just hook up the stock wires. Wish I new the amps for each pump. John |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I drove around today and this is what I have found so far. Normal driving pressure seems to be pretty stable around 17-17.5psi. With the Juice on level 5 I couldn't pull the pressure below 15 under a hard acceleration. Hopefully she will fare me well in the long run.
I do have a question for the people that have done the tone rig mod. On the stock settings it does seem like it has a little more giddy up. I noticed after driving and then stopping for a stop light, it sounded like a 2nd gen. But is was very brief, it idles smoothly and drives smoothly. Is a little rattle every now and then normal after doing the tone ring mod? Facing the motor, I rotated the ring clockwise. I hope that was correct. |
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