Caver Dave

Thanks WD!... any chance you could define "coined"? I asked (not of you) in an earlier post and don't recall seeing an answer...

I *think* it might the term for the 2(?) stamped "slots" (male/female) that run radially between the lugholes on the rims... or am I way off

leper

Half of the stud holes have a lip around them, and they fit into the recess from the lip on the other wheel. If you look at your spare, you will see.

wannadiesel

Like leper said. Alternating "cups" and "cones" around the bolt circle. They interlock when you put the rears on correctly and keep the rear duals concentric.

Caver Dave

Spare's was MIA at time of purchase, but I've got one on the way...

Cool... do the slots in the rims have a purpose?

I was just at NAPA picking up the BHAF and was so excited it was under $40, completely forgot that I needed a couple of 5/8" tapered lugnuts!

wannadiesel

Up front, no. In the rear they sit on a pin to make sure you have the valve stems 180 degrees apart and the rims mating properly.

dpuckett

I marked the right front tire (worst ruout) at the high and low areas. I rotated the high area in the tire to the low spot (valve stem) on the wheel (in my case, about 100deg). It cured 85% of the problem. I still have some vibrating at 58-62mph, but I am above or below that 90% of the time, so it isnt a big deal. From 40 to ~58, and from 65 to 80 it is smooth as silk.

I'm irritated that I didnt think of this months sooner.

DP

MJDiesel

This is some great advise, bearkiller! I'm glad that I just happened to browse through here and see it. After breaking beads by running over the tire or using a tractor loader, I wonder why nobody around here thought of this!

BearKiller

What year did they start this??

I looked in the son's 1990 owner's manual, and no mention anywhere about the conical nut trick.

I know most older Dodge DRW tons, with the coined wheels, have CONICAL/ACORN nuts from the factory; in fact, a 1st Gen. Dodge/Cummins was just in the shop, Friday, and it had conical/acorn nuts, and not the flanged type.

I have no idea of it's year-model, as the grille, and a few other un-necessary parts, were missing.

The older Fords, with the coined wheels (which are identicle to coined Dodge wheels), all have conical nuts, not starting the flanged nuts until they started the flat-surface/un-coined wheels that are hub-centric.

Chevrolet/GMC started using hub-centric way back in the sixties.

A dead give-away to a wheel being hub-centric is, after the wheel has been on for several months, you have to crawl under the truck with a sledge-hammer and knock the wheel loose from the hub, before it will come off.

I have even had to install the nuts loosely and lunge across the parking-lot, slamming on the brakes, several times, until the rust breaks loose, permitting the wheel to come loose from the hub.

One more reason to use plenty of never-sieze.

BearKiller

Here is one more bit of information that goes along with our tire-balance discussion.

Not all, but many, tire manufacturers have little round DOT stickers, usually yellow or orange, sometimes red, on the sidewall of new tires.

This dot-sticker is supposed to be oriented to the valve-stem, before inflating the tire, to achieve optimum balance.

I don't see the little stickers as often as I used to; and, due to the rough and tumble handling that tires get before the dealer gets them, a lot of the time the sticker gets misplaced/lost.

I have never actually mounted a tire with the sticker in various locations to see if it actually does make a difference.

Maybe sometime when we aren't knee-deep in customers, I will experiment with this sticker business and see if it actually means anything.

wannadiesel

I don't know. Every DRW 1st gen I've looked at has the same setup as mine, including the 1 1/16" front nuts and 1 1/8" rear nuts nonsense.

BearKiller

I just walked out and had a look at the non-IC 90-model D-350.

I didn't check the wrench size of front-versus-rear.

This truck has SOLID flanged nuts.

The nuts on my Ford, and ninety percent of other trucks, has the flange a seperate piece, sort of swaged onto the back of the nut, such that, when the flange contacts the wheel surface, the flange quits rotating, remaining stationary, while the nut tightens.

In the case of the solid flanged nuts on coined wheels, it would appear to me that a much better set-up would be the older style conical nuts, negating the need for all this wheel lining-up nonsense.

Also, I would think that, without the wheel first being anchored by four conical nuts, those solid flanges would have a tendency to "walk" the wheel around, as they were being torqued.

wannadiesel

On my truck (and others I've looked at) the fronts are like your Ford and the rears are solid.

dpuckett

I have had 4 1stGen duallies, and they ALL had the 1-1/8" nuts, solid flange, on 5/8-18 studs. Wanna, I think your truck has some non-OEM nuts (excluding the one behind the wheel). 1-1/16 sounds like an older Ford setup.

Bearkiller- I had installed the little yellow dot facing the valve stem, and it wasnt the high spot in the tire. It may just be this particular tire/wheel combo, though.
DP

BearKiller

I didn't look at both sides; but, the 91 D-350 has SOLID flanged nuts on both ends of the driver side, and they appear to be the same size.

As to Wanna's front nuts, my 85 F-350 does use 1-1/16 wrench for the nuts.

I never gave any thought to the thread size; maybe they are 5/8".

I am going to check into that.

cootz

Is this true for all 1st gens or W350's only?