devildog5001

Well it looks like I broke the flexplate in my transmission. Not surprised, a little more power pulling my Dump trailer @ 18,000 GVW the other day with my bone stock tranny with 210k. So it's time to step up with a better TC, VB... So I read a lot today, made some calls to some shops and now I a need a little advice. I have the local guy who says he can do it for around $2,500 up to ? with very little knowledge on what he'll actually do until he opens it up of course. Claims he has a TC that I'll love for $1,100 from a distributor I cant find anything about. There is a DTT dealer about 60 miles away that says it could run in the $5,000 range with a new flexplate, except he's running about 4 weeks out because of back ordered parts. ATS is 2 miles from my house and wants $5,000 for the hole shootin' match, including their billet flexplate. So my options are ATS or the small guy using his 'performance' parts. $5,000 for a complete DTT or ATS is a lot but I guess you get what you pay for. Can you use a good TC & VB (like ATS) and 2nd gen flexplate in an other wise stock box with decent results? Opinions?

timb

I'd say that if you are going to be pulling that kind of weight all the time, you need to buy a good trans. with a good warrenty.

wannadiesel

I don't think the guy with the $1100 TC knows what he's talking about. The 1st gens don't have a locking TC, so they are nowhere near that pricey. The ATS and DTT installers are quoting you for 500 HP transmissions (with locking TC's that your truck doesn't use), which you don't need. Installers know how to put parts in and how to sell them, but they don't have much interest in helping you build the trans you need - they want to build you the trans they make the most money on. Call DTT/ATS/Goerend/Suncoast directly and explain what you have and what you do with it, you will find that the cost goes down dramatically (you don't need a billet anything).

At your power level (assuming the trans is solid) at TC and VB with a 2nd gen flexplate is a good way to do it. Even adding 190's into the mix shouldn't stress it out too much.

loch

http://www.phoenixtrans.com/

only bad thing depending on your location is they are in dallas, will build a tranny can hold up to us (with overdrive) and new TC for 2500 or right in there. Did the one in my other truck and it was still kicking and i tortured it daily. They also build thier own converters.

fishin fever

Hi ; I,m in the process if building hd tranny also and if you know what you need or have some knowledge first you get better fed back/ respect from shops. Our trannies have nonlocking or open stall converters, Custom lowstalls for us are cheaper because there are no clutches. ITC charges $795 cdn for a 1600 to 1900 stall ,competitor ships in ATS low stall at sam e price my quote is labour- r&r plus rebuild $900 cdn .... parts - low stall tq, hd bebuild kit[with extra cluthespack,seals etc] diesel shiftkit, hd band struts, something or other shaft[$65] and torrington bearings,fluids etc this is hd rebuild $1400cdn This is a blind price but firm, if the tranny needs any thing elses when opened up ie sun gear ,overdrive updates etc labour will not change only extra parts. If you are pulling near stock or a bit more hp keep the stall low 1600 to 1750 ...... ps you have 4x4 will cost a little more

fishin fever

I just notice your sig claims orig 46rh Hmmmm I believe a 518A is orig for 93 onless you have a VERYLATE build date????

janb

I have a '93 w/A518 and tow 18k (+ truck) (25-28k GCVW) currently stock

tranny mods planned
DTT TC; picked up yesterday ($750)
DTT billet flex plate; ($550) I feel a 2nd gen FP would be adequate for GCVW<20K, or 500hp but... for the extra $450, I won't have to worry about THAT breaking, just insurance on my part, and I figured it was worth the $450 not to have to pull tranny out again, or getting stuck w / broken FP while climbing a steep hill w/ bulldozer in tow

I will have tranny built locally for $1200 from a guy who I have used and respect judgement. (and warrantee) There will be some 2nd gen parts put in, (gear cluster and steel carrier housing) and VB passages opened up

so... ~$2500 total

one problem you might have is delivery of TC, as I ordered mine a few weeks ago. Mine might be setting for a few weeks, so...(if leadtime is an issue) I could ship to you and get another built, tho they are specific to application -Stephen (DTT) did exhaustive spec sheet on my usage (HD towing + hills) and proposed power mods (minor- GSK + pump tweaks + turbo housing, BHAF and 4" exhaust)

devildog5001

Thanks guys! The $5,000 from both DTT & ATS is for the non lock-up TC believe it or not, although this does include the R&R price to do the swap. So that puts both right at $4,000 or there abouts. But like wannadiesel said, it is for the big horse power version with a list of new billet and kevlar parts 10 pages long. Of course they say that's what I need pulling the heavy wieght.

My trans code is DGB, A518? My '93 manual says 46rh, I assumed I had the 46rh.

janb, that is a generous offer to give up your TC, I really appreciate that! I yelled at my wife "honey, check this out"! She said "no wonder your on that **** thing all the time"! Lead time is definitely an issue but I think I should be able to score something within the week from either ATS or Goerend. ATS is just down the street but they are sure proud of their parts, $930 for the non lock-up TC! Dave at Goerend can have one out Mon or Tues with a 1700-2100 rpm stall for $650. I can score the 2nd gen flexplate locally.

I trust the small local guy as far as the rebuild and R&R goes, just don't know if he has the time to research the right parts so I get a good transmission that will last in my application. Not a lot of faith but if I had a nickel for every time I got bad advice from someone on the selling end of something. As far as the VB goes should I leave that up to a shop to modify the original unit for more line pressure or should I just spend the $500 and get a good one that he can install. If I could get away with $2,500 for a transmission rebuild I'm all over that! I have a Daytona (bike week) trip planned in 3 weeks so I have the perfict break in trip to get ready for.

What things should I ask/have the trans shop do as far as other rebuild parts go- (There will be some 2nd gen parts put in, (gear cluster and steel carrier housing).)... Thanks guys!

25-28k GCVW, and I thought I had a weight issue! That's towin'!

janb

I have Colorado blood , having grownup in Masonville and Estes area.(so don't mind helping out) Been growing webbed feet for past 22yrs tho... 16 inches of rain in last few weeks (285 rainy days/yr), but at least I don't have to do w/o the "front range wind", got 60-70 mph last night in Columbia Gorge, it makes a real crash when a 200' tree blows over

re tranny mods - do some more searchin here or over at NWbombers. There are specific items that easily interchange, and others that are not so easy, but also not as important. I don't have the specifics on me, but will PM you if I find
jb

fishin fever

Tranny rebuild extras over and above tq convertor and soft part rebuild 3 things i was advise to replace/update 1/ band apply struts-put in a hd ones 2/torrington washers in the over drive unit they are known to fail/crush in the 727/518/46 3/ this part they check at rebuild time it's in the OD section pinion carrier bearing and they change late in the 518 old ones are aluminum with 4 bearing gears replace with cast steel 5 bearing carrier..... ps check that the teeth on the sun gear are not damaged which works with the above mentioned carrier. You may also want to consider a diesel shift kit as well

txs

http://www.pbase.com/txs/image/26289862 Ignore the rest of the mess and focus on the 2 small carriers at the bottom of the pic, these are 48re 6 pinion maleable iron front and rear planet pinion carriers. front one is on the left, rear to the right.

fishin fever

Hey TXS will those work in a 93-518 a those are the carriers i was referring too in last reply if 5 is better than 4 then 6 is better still

txs

The output shaft or in 518 the intermediate shaft was changed for the 94 MY, different pitch on the spline where the front carrier goes on, so the 5 pinion iron and 6 pinion iron carriers have to be resplined to fit 93 and back shafts. With correct spline the 5 pinion front will drop right in with the correct bushing and thrust washer, the 6 pinion requires the whole gear train assembly, annulus gears, sun gear, and drive shell, and the 48re has double the number of teeth on the rear (direct) clutch plates and front annulus gear. I will post up some more pics soon,
http://www.pbase.com/txs/image/26388994, here is shot of 48re rear clutch assembly on left, 727 518 on right. See the bigger chamfer at the outside edge of the large diameter? That's to clear the 5 plate front clutch retainer, that's one behind the 727 part.

txs

Here's the front carrier you want, 47rh-re.
http://www.pbase.com/txs/image/26389128 The carrier that goes in the overdrive unit is very similar to this carrier, the snout is a little longer.