jk1364

Need some help. I would like to install my trans temp gauge this weekend. Iwould like to put it in the trans or the hot line. Where is the port on the trans and which line is the hot trans line? If I put it in the line what is the size of the line? Any help would be great. Thanks. John

Thirsty600

Wrong section, should have posted in "performance" section.

I as well need the same info, my gauges are in the mail.

I also need info on installing the boost gauge.

Because634

i ordered a replacment trans line (the one with the rubber piece in it) from massdiesel.com it has a tee fitting it for the gauge. i have not installed mine yet still waiting for the gauges. The boost gauge should come with a replacement bolt or you can buy one. The fitting then goes into that.

Thirsty600

This is the only way??

Blue600

That is how I installed mine.

Flame

You guys might want to look at Blue600s pictures of his guage installs. They are great pics and might help.

Nice install Blue600!

Blue600

Thanks Flame!

Hannibal

I have an "Autometer" manifold to install my temp sensor in the hot line. Right now it's taped and ty-wrapped to the hot line using silicone tape good for 600*F. It works surprisingly well for being jury-rigged. This morning I'll be doing my 38,000 mile transmission service and will install the sensor in the pan using a B&M drain plug kit I bought from Autozone for $8. My thoughts are the hot line could becone clogged at the drainback valve (mine already has; drainback valve was replaced under warranty recall) or the cooler and the hot line would remain cool while the transmission is getting hotter by the minute. When I drop the pan this morning, I'll drill a 1/2" hole in the pan where it clears the valve body and install the B&M plug kit. I'll use the sensor for the plug.
Much to my dismay it appears ATF+4 might not be synthetic after all after reading the label on the 1-gallon containers.

Blue600

Isn't the fluid in the pan already cooled? That is my understanding.

Mopar Jim

Yes, Blue600, the fluid in the pan is post-cooler.

Most of the trans builders recommend installation in the line TO the cooler (often they use the Massdiesel replacement line section) so you know what is happening to the fluid temperature in the torque converter, and know it immediately. They usually specify a pan location as a second choice only. The test ports do not always see flow and their temps aren't always going to represent what is happening in the converter, which is your biggest thermal concern. Either location is valid, but you won't see the maximum temps the ATF is exposed to with a pan-mounted sender, and you won't immediately see the heat buildup when the converter is making lots of heat. There is going to be a certain amount of damping from the fluid in the pan and the coolers effect.

It's sort of like the pre-turbo vs post-turbo arguments for EGT sensor location. Either one gives you a number, but for those worried about near-instantaneous response and not futzing around with corrections, pre-turbo seems the way to go. In that case the critical number is actual tubine inlet temp, as specified by Cummins, so I think the pre-turbo camp has a good point. In the case of ATF, in my opinion you need to know, rather than infer, the maximum temperature to which the ATF is exposed to make a good call on change intervals, so you want a sender in the lines to the coolers.

I respect Hannibal's concern about clogs, but I'd install a second sender and gauge, or a switchable input to one gauge, if I decided that was a major problem. The pan would then be a backup/safety/general interest (how much cooling is my cooler setup giving the ATF?) reading. I'm already half convinced that a differential oil temp gauge is a good idea, so I might very well take Hannibal's point and throw in a trans pan reading as well. Of course, I'm a gauge freak, will be towing in the mountain west, and fully intend to install a REAL oil pressure gauge for the engine when I finally get my Cummins...

Jim

Blue600

I installed the Mass diesel Inline temp sendor on mine. I want to know what the true temp is going out of the tranny not coming in after being cooled. I came from a PSD 6 speed so I'm worried about this auto lasting.

Hannibal

Fluid comes from the cooler back to the tranny, flows through the planetaries and back to the pan to be picked up through the filter and into the valve body that's sitting in the fluid in the pan. I'm getting an overall temperature of the transmission itself, not the cooled fluid in the return line. Although the sensor in the hot line gives more to watch on the gauge, I'm not really concerned about the few seconds the fluid is 30* hotter in the tube on it's way to the heat exchanger and cooler. I'm more concerned about the temp of the fluid the tranny is dropping out of the clutches and planetaries and fixing to suck up in the valve body. That's where the temp is more constant and where damage can occur. The short amount of time the fluid spends going from the TC to the cooler at higher temps won't hurt much. But it's mostly a matter of personal preference. Both locations will tell you if your tranny is burning up providing your drainback valve isn't clogged or stuck closed. There's a TSB out on the '03s for the drainback valve. I'd just as soon not have one and let the TC drain overnight and get more out during fluid changes. I think mine's stuck open this time anyhow.(it was stuck closed when I bought it) I got 7quarts out of it yesterday when I changed the fluid and filter. Usually you'll only get about 4 quarts.

Big Ed

I use the Massdiesel inline tee also.