Clane

I recently replaced both rear tail lights on my trailer because the lenses were cracked/broken. Seemed like a simple enough job, pull the old lights off, strip some of the insulation off the wire and stick it in the hole on the back of the new light housing.....
Now none of the trailer lighting works...
I got under the trailer and found that some of the wires were broke from rubbing on the frame so i started from the front and worked my way back replacing all the broken connections (3 total). Still no lights. Hooked it up to another vehicle and still no lights.
Is there something that i'm missing? Both sides are wired individually from the back and come together in the front to a 4 pin connector.

seems simple enough, but i'm stumped... any suggestions..??

__________________
-Chris

DTR Megacab Club Member #217

06 2500 MegaCab 4x4 SLT Black
6" Lift - King 2.5s / Thuren Towers
37" Toyo MTs / 20x10 Pro Comp Wheels
Defiant Steering Brace
AFE Stage 2 / Muffler Delete, 5" RBP Tip
Some AV Stuff
AMP Powersteps
On Board Air / Train Horn
NightRunner Head Lights
DT ProFab Light Bar 3 - 7" H.I.D's

rich

ground maybe

__________________
SIX IN A ROW BUILT TO TOW,CUZ WELL WE ALL KNOW , HAVING A V-8 AIN'T THAT GREAT Dodge trucks that havent made life expectancy
96 3500,-175k 98.5 3500 -164k ,98.5 3500-275k, 01 3500-140k, 03 3500 -155k, 07 3500-68k waiting for possible P-Pump conversion and now I'm killing the 06,3500-116k as of 10-01-09 and counting and yes i make my trucks earn a living buy towing professionally

Chrisreyn

Agree, check for voltage at the "end" of the run at each tail-light, if its there, then the problem is the ground. If not, you have a continuity issue.

__________________
93 D350 XCab, engine pretty much stock, BHAF, RV Torque Convertor, Air-Ride Suspension, muffler MIA,

cLAYH

Ground. Are you running a dedicated ground wire to each light or grounding thru the frame?

Sounds like the old lights grounded thru the frame and maybe the new ones aren't.

__________________
2003 3500, dually, SO, 6spd, full load, SBC, Edge Hot Juice,AFE intake, BD exhaust.

Dad's truck now:
2001.5 3500 auto, 4x4, extended cab, loaded Sport, BHAF w/shroud, Juice w/Attitude, RV275 nozzles, DTT Torque Converter and Valve body, WG turnbuckled(32psi), Holly Blue pushing into stock pump(14psi @ WOT), DSS steering system, CIPA towing mirrors

Clane

I replaced the lights with the same ones that were on there. Wiring is basic. Two wires each side running to the back for lights, with a splice on each side for marker lights. Wiring like in picture below.


I found a wiring kit at AutoZone for 12 bucks. I'm just going to get some gromets, wire looms and rewire the trailer.

Thanks guys.

rich

if the have a metal frame then they should ground thru that if not then they need a ground

Clane

Unless i missed it, there's isnt a ground to the frame. The wire harness on there now is exactly like the one in the picture above, with splices along the way for the side markers, and rear running lights.

Where would the ground be, spliced in to one of 4 wires that run to the tail lights or should there be a seperate wire all together?

ellerman

In the picture above the white wire must be grounded to the frame of the trailer. If it's not, nothing will work.

__________________
2001 4x4 QCLB Sport 6spd HO, Carli arms, Carli Coils, Carli Billet shock towers, 3" Sway-A-Way shocks, Carli 3rd gen track bar, Carli Sway Bar Links, Deaver 12 leaf spring packs, custom made long travel air bags, Defiant dual stabilizer, 3rd gen wheels, 295/70R17 Toyo MT's, Centramatic wheel balancers, Edge Juice with Attitude, FASS, MBRP 4", AFE stage 1, Jammer stage 2 injectors, Jacobs Exhaust Brake, DSS steering stabilizer, Luke's links, Southbend ConOFE, Optima Yellows, Royal Service body

rich

yea but the lights them selves must be grounded. if they are not in metal housings then their is ground wire coming out of them and it needs to be attached to the white wire and frame

Spitse

Check the bolts where the lights are mounted to the frame. That is where most lights are grounded to the frame. Take the ground wire from the lights, white, and connect to the bolt. Make sure to clean a good spot for contact, like wire brush to clean away paint and rust.
Also if you are trying the lights on the trailer without having it hitched up, you may need to run a jumper from vehical to trailer for a ground. The ball and hitch are the connection for ground for most trailers without breaks. If vehical and trailer not grounded together, the light probably will not work no matter how good the ground is on the trailer at the lights.
Just a tip. If light start working, but dooing crazy things, check the grounding, then check wiring to verify if correct. I have had the running lights blink with the trun signal all because of the ground.

__________________
2008 3500 Mega 4X4 SRW Auto
DTR Megacab Club Member #259
03 Honda Rancher 4X4
06 Honda Rubicon 4X4

Clane

White's hot..... Nice light show though...


Good call! I did not know that about the ball and hitch being the ground, Thanks Spitse !! Hooked the trailer up and wala..
I feel like Clark Grizwald when he finally got his Christmas lights working..haha

johnh

the ball and hitch are not good grounds..... a more positive ground is needed, on my trailers i always run a ground from the connector to the trailer ( that's the short white wire in the picture)

__________________
01 3500 ho 2WD;4 inch exhaust bully dog stage 3 inj edge comp(removed hybrid hx 35/40 8/25/04) dyno 419.2 hp 891.8.torque w/stage 2`s on a dyno jet 6/25/03 ,htb2 turbo installed 8/25/04, not a dually any more,conversion done in 04... added home designed propane march 07 (to improve mileage) new vp 44 from industrial injection 3/july/07 181000 miles, removed stage 3 injectors ,reinstalled stage 2 to try to control EGT's better

johnh

[quote=Clane;2632466]White's hot..... Nice light show though...


if your white wire is hot , it's wired wrong

Chrisreyn

Ditto

Clane

Meaning the truck wiring is wrong??