DetroitDiesel71

morning all, well I currently have 11.00 x 20 tires on a split ring Dayton spoke rim on my brockway. I just bought two new front rims non split ring, and tires, 11R x 22.5 on a 8.25 x22.5 rim. Question is is there a correct wat to safely remove and reinstall on truck? Some folks have said loosen lugs, tap crab hold downs on rim, jack up truck, ensure crabs are free then remove tire, put on new tire and slowly tighten with a block of wood on ground to ensure it sets evenly while turning tire to ensure it doesn't wobble. It seems straight foward, Im just wanting to make sure I don't damage or set rim on spoke wrong. Any help would be appreciated. I pick up the tires thursday, he is blasting and powder coating the rims before installing tires as well for me as part of the deal. Is there a specific torque for the lugs? or is it just use 3/4 inch drive and braker bar and go all out like I have been told...

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2001 CTD 2500 4x4 Ram sport,RED, 5 in Twin Turnout stacks, BHAF custom built intake, custom built 16 gauge pod panel, where the cup holder went.RV275s, Goerend Tranny and triple disc converter, 285 BF A/T KO's,XM radio,CB, 245,000 original miles, orig IP,3rd L/P Original Owner from Day one.

1972 Brockway K361TL with a screaming detroit 8v71
US COAST GUARD Staten Island NY(not by choice)
SEMPER PARATUS
Originally from Angleton Texas. " Last Of the Detroit Diesel Loving Men"

MikeyB

I'm trying to remember does the Dayton spokes have the same outer diameter between the 22.5" and the 20's?

We ran 22.5" Daytons on our tanker trailers and they are a PITA to get true. I say evenly torque the bolts down as you spin the wheel and watch the runout, and adjust accordingly. May take a few tries to get it right.

MikeyB

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chaikwa

That's what I've always done. Sounds like good advice to me. I've never worried about torque specs much, just tighten them down with a 3/8" breaker bar like you suggested. Just make sure you don't place the valve stem or the little dogs that protect it on the spoke of the wheel when you put it on.

Yes. (short answer, sorry)

Actually, I've always liked the Dayton spokes/rims and split ring rims better than the 'new' style. Probably that's because they're what I was brought up on, but I'd rather change a tire on a split ring any day.

chaikwa.

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chaikwa.

98 3500 DRW 4X4, no power mods, dreaded 53 block. Not a REAL truck like the ol' 93, but it'll do.
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DetroitDiesel71

thanks guys I'll post pics of job, and let you know how it goes.... After front tires are done, I will finish up returning truck to original dual exhaust off the 8v71. Then the pic challenge, twin turboing the natural 8v71 in a 361 brockway, they say it cant be done, but I hate the word cant, just because the factory didn't do it....lol I'll definetly keep you all updated.

stephen

MikeyB

Yep, I have to say the Daytons looks sharp on older rigs, like older Autocar, Mack and Brockways.

We had a couple of old International Transtar conventionals with Alcoa fronts and Daytons on the drivers. Sharp setup.

MikeyB

Hvytrkmech

I would most definitely NOT loosen any lugs with the truck on the ground. Jack up the truck one side at a time, loosen the lugs then with a tire sledge or regular sledge hit toward the inside lip of the rim. Rotate the tire and do the same on the opposite side. You do not need to use a lot of force, usually a couple taps and the rim frees up with a little pop. Split rings are most dangerous when resetting the bead. Good on you for buying new rims. I use a socket when truing out the wheel. A block of wood will do fine also.

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Tim

2006, 3500 QC/SRW/LB/48RE/4.10/Inferno red, Mag-Hytec trans and diff cover, Isspro gauges, Quad XZTII, GDP 2 micron kit, Air Dog 100, install with pics- http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=185809

pind

air down the tire before loosening the lug nuts.

Most tips on here are solid for truing the wheels when installing. Industry spec is 300 ft/lbs on the nuts. This is what the tire shops use, and what the stud manufacturers call for.

Its been a long time since I've seen a dayton wheel wobble, although it can happen. I find if everything is CLEAN, on the spokes and rims, you won't have any trouble. On duals, the spacer band needs to be straight as well. Lots of people goof that one up. While you have it apart, look at the lip on the rear of the spokes, for hairline cracks running across near the root of the lip. This happens during overloading and hard use. Not usually an issue on steers, but on rears, it happens a lot, and on trailers, more yet.

Good luck, sounds like a decent project.

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Nick02Ram

Like mentioned before I always air it down before messin with it. Like trkmech said, just loosen the nuts, don't remove em, cuz they can pop off with some force. I've never had a problem with wobble on steers cuz of the design. But I still tighten a bit at a time, in the order like any standard 5 lug setup. It's drives ya gotta watch b/c the wedges are what center it. And those I always bolt up before I air it up. This way, if the ring does blow off, it'll only slam into the other rim, not you. With steers the lock ring is facing out anyways, so there's not a lot of protection, but still air it up on the truck so you are rolling it around ful of pressure, and so the ring isnt starin ya in the face when boltin it up. Whenever I set the ring, I always go all the way around it, and tap it in with a hammer to make sure it's seated under the lip. A fair amount of soap on the bead and flap also helps the tire slide up to seat rather than pop up, and it seats even and straight, ensuring less force on the lock ring.

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RollinCoalSmoke

Yea whatever you do be safe. A good friend of mine broke an arm and lost a finger when the split ring came off while airing up in a safety cage. They are dangerous.

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DetroitDiesel71

I picked up my new tires 11r 22.5 mounted on one piece 8.25 x 22.5 rims. I am gonna trash the old split ring rims and tires unless someone wants them. they are free and on staten island ny. So are there any other issues while removing the old rims and tires? The rims I am putting on are one piece, so they look to be pretty straight foward. Thanks again all, I will post pics of the job when and if it stops raining ....

chaikwa

What's the reasoning for this? I've never heard it before and it makes me curious. I can understand airing them UP after they are mounted to protect yourself from ring failure, but airing DOWN before removing them from the truck?

chaikwa.

Nick02Ram

I'm pretty sure its just another safety thing. The less you can handle an aired up split rim, the better.

pind

it is a safety thing, we are taught to "defuse the bomb" before removing the wheel in those instances.

On a 1 piece wheel / tire combo, we don't worry about it, although it is usually a time saver to start airing down while removing the lug nuts, but in the case of all multi-piece wheels, from split ring 16" all the way up to 5 piece loader wheels and so on, you air down before removal.

It is very rare to have a problem, but I am a very rare person, and I see a LOT of problems... so I air down accordingly when doing wheels. A couple extra minutes could give you a whole bunch of extra minutes later on down the road.

When mounting, generally you air it up in a cage, or with chains wrapped through the center to contain any possible shrapnel. When transporting tires, they should be aired to no more than 30psi. this applies to all tires, although most people don't follow that one. The bigger the tire, the more volume it has to blow off for a given pressure.

For example, according to Goodyear, an exploding mid sized earth-mover tire can throw a 7.25kg (16lb) bowling ball, a distance of over 4.8km ( 3 miles ). Get your head in front of THAT one. It also contains enough energy to lift a 1380kg ( 3000lb ) car, 26m ( 84.5' ) off the ground. That would almost be enough to shift an angry mother-in-law.

A regular truck tire, 11r24.5 will send a 16lb bowling ball over 3/4 of a mile with the energy released when it explodes. Once again, would you want your head in front of that one?

So, what it comes down to, is do what you feel safe with. Being that I work alone, and often in remote locations, I spend the extra time to make things as safe as practically possible, before tackling any job. A couple extra minutes setup, generally makes the job a whole lot smoother, and everyone goes home at the end of the day.

This public safety message has been brought to to by the long-haired freaky mechanical genius coalition of the greater white north.

DetroitDiesel71

thanks guys for all the help, I'll be doing job tomorrow. I am only doing the fronts for now until I save money for rears. What is the reason or principle of a split ring rim, why did they start going to a one piece bud or steel non split ring. Just looking to learn, not much on internet about the why's...

thanks again,. I will take pics when I do job and tack em up here for you. Next question I'm doing exhaust next, what height do you all think would good above cab and what size, planning on 5" over the stock 4" and about 2ft above cab, any thoughts?

Hvytrkmech

Just google up split ring rim accidents. It should pop up a ton of very interesting reading.