bigfoot

This would pertain to a lot of folks in this area of the website, so I’ll post here also. This was originally in 24 valve and drive train. Hop that this will do someone some good. <br><br>Ok, I have the latest on DC paying to change my differential oil to synthetic. DC called me today and they are processing the check today. <br>So if you have not already done so call and complain loudly until they give you a file # then you will need to have the ******* change the oil and send the receipt to DC. <br>

phox_mulder

I just got a &quot;reminder&quot; from the dealer.<br><br>Time for the next oil change,<br>inspect brakes,<br>change front differential oil,<br>change rear differential oil.<br><br>Seems awfully early to be doing this, only 13,000 on the truck (no towing whatsoever yet) <br>could this reminder be because of the synthetic and towing fiasco?<br><br>Should I press them to do it for nothing since it is a warranty voiding issue?<br><br>thanx<br><br>phox

waam

PHOX mulder<br> I think the reminders you are talking about go by dates from when you bought your truck, not miles, or it could be mileage also if you drive a lot. I'am going to synthetic in my rear pumpkin, I have a 4x2, when I have 23 to 25 k on the truck. I used valveoline 80-90 gear lub. in my last three dodges. all had anti spin axles. Half of my mileage on the trucks is pulling fivers, and have never had any problems with the rear axle. Dealer has never changed mind, I always did it myself. For sure I didn't get it free.<br> <br> waam Holland, Mich.<br> diesel still selling for 1.45 to 1.53

TPilaske

Just make sure you change to a full synthetic before you decide to tow... At least that's what DC recommends... ;D<br><br>Tony

phox_mulder

[quote author=waam link=board=11;threadid=10202;start=0#97585 date=1043803315]<br>PHOX mulder<br> I think the reminders you are talking about go by dates from when you bought your truck, not miles, or it could be mileage also if you drive a lot. [/quote]<br><br>Still curious though.<br><br>According the the schedule, they don't need to be changed out till 45,000 miles, or 36 months.<br>I haven't even had the truck a year yet.<br>Severe duty has it changed at 15K though.<br><br>Heck, even the brake pads don't need looking at till 22,500 or 18 months. (I'll believe that when I see it though)<br><br>They must think I'm driving this truck into the ground.<br><br>I'll just have to ask when I call for apointment.<br>Yes, still having the dealer change oil, too cold to try myself, especially the first time. <br>(don't even have anything big enough to hold all the used oil)<br><br>phox

I just changed mine over to syn. Boy, talk about pricey...$72.00 for a gallon. Oh well, I pack a camper so it's probably worth the money. Guess I should be glad it's a 4X2. I have 81,000 on it and it's a 94 I bought new. As for brake pads; I changed mine at 65,000 and they still had a good 25 percent left.

TPilaske

$72 What the heck did you put in there??? I only paid $69.95 for 12 quarts of Royal Purple 85W-140! <br><br>

It was NAPA brand. Guess the next time I do it I'll look for royal purple.

turbo thom

I went to Amsoil Series 2000 at 82K miles and now stand at 254K. I have had good luck with it and use it in the transmission also. Now as most folks know the oil has a blue color and the only time I had it to lose it's color was at 40K on the change and went on a vacation in Va in 96* heat. I did get up over 200 degrees on the rea and tranny too and when I got hame I checked the rear and it had gotten a dark color mixed with the blue. Changed it out with more 75W-90 and all is well. Some folks say to use the 140 rear oil for towing. I find that runs to hot for me. Now I've used the Amsoil for about 3 1/2 years for all my lubrication needs and have had good luck, but I just don't like the 140 wt oil.<br><br> I hear good things from Redline too. That might be worth a look. I guess I'll just stay with what works for me.<br><br> Synthetic is the way to go. Remember 5 years ago Pennzoil was preaching synthetic was a joke. A selling ploy , they said. Look at'um now. ;D And guess who started the whole thing? :<br><br>..Preston..

sidekick

Just spoke to DC customer service they will no longer pay for your diff syn oil change. They would not be specific about warrantee and the trailer towing issue. I would suggest that anyone that is looking for the syn change call DC @ 1-800-992-1997 and complain, this is not a recall so don't get tied up with the recall line. DC will at least give you a file number that will list your complaint. Give the file number to your dealer when you go in for service and complain to him too.

Nevada

On my previous Dodge trucks, I could never get the anti-spin differential to work properly with synthetics. On top of that, in my experience the clutch packs in the Dana anti-spins deteriorate in a hurry if you don't do regular fluid changes. I always used dino lube with friction modifier at 20,000 mile intervals with good results.

Wilber1

I had my Dana 70 switched over from 3.54's to 4.10's by a company that has specialized in rear ends exclusively for over 15 years. They do not like synthetic in Dana LS diffs because of the afformentioned clutch problems. They said that if I must use synthetic, to use the best pure synthetic I can find and their opinion is that you get what you pay for.<br><br>They recommended two 4 oz Ford Friction Modifier additives # C8AZ 19B546A and a good non-synthetic positrac lube such as Pennzoil 80W-90 GL5, with changes every 30,000 KM or 20,000 miles.<br><br>DC says synthetic for towing. Confusing.

KC

I also use Amsoil in engine, trans and the rear end. Truck runs great. Hope to see how it pulls soon.<br><br>KC

D White

Amsoil 75-90 front and rear<br>Amsoil universal ATF in the tranny<br><br>Next oil change I'll have it in the engine. ~~ DW

inspector

I would like to change over to the synthetic in the rear (Dana 70 LS), due to the owner's manual recommendation of 75w-140 syn. I currently run the petroleum 75w-140 plus Dodge's LS additive (man it stinks) but seems to work o.k. My neighbor is the supervising mechanic for our City fleet of police cars, trucks etc etc. He told me that when they were running the 90wt in the police rear ends, they were fixing them all the time. They switched over to 75w-140 gear lube (non-synthetic) and have reduced the repairs by 90%. He says if the police can't tear up the rear ends, it says a lot.

That said, is it better to go with the synthetic or stay with the regular gear lube due to the LS clutch packs? I definetly don't want to be fixing those. I pull a 8800lb 5er behind my Cummins 2whl dr.