cmac

so heres the problem...

when i go to start my 98 all it does is click once, kinda loud. it used to start after smacking the starter on top with a hammer but its geting harder and harder to get her started.

my thinking...

from what i have found on this site it sounds like the contacts are worn. do you think i'm right?
how do i tell if it is the original (sp?) starter?
from your experience is it worth rebuilding?
if it is an aftermarket one (china crap) where is the best place to get a good one that will last?
i found what sems like a good deal for a bosch starter here: http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?Ntt=...5%2B4294963399 (this site also has the denso starters which the "LarryB" site http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm says are the OE ones)

thanks

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98 12V QCLB 4x4 Auto (BDtorque converter, valve body, shift kit and power lock)
K&N CAI with Amsoil filter, S300 w/ 4in STR8 pipe
Bosch 370, custom fuel plate, 204 DV's, 3KGSK
Boost EGT and Tranny Temp gauges.
DYNOed @ 343 HP / 764TQ 1/8th Mile ET 9.90 @ 73MPH

J.Suplanski

Got mine from Fleetsource Brand new Densco starter selenoid that came with the truck when I bought it brand new! It was 262.00 del to my house! www.fleetsource.com

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1994 12 valve 4X4 Fully loaded Carli Suspension with 3" Kings Suncoast full billet trans converter & Flex plate HX 40 370 injectors Snow Performance Meth h20 injection 315-75-16 Pro-Comp Extremes Wilco tire carrier Keeps up with the traffic!Thanks to Old Man Bob 4X4 & Pablo

cmac

is there a problem with getting re-built ones?

CarlJensen

Larry B has the parts for a rebuild or replace. Probably just need contacts..

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/

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Retired US Navy Chief, 95 2500 auto, peeling white (junk paint), BHAF, #5 plate, EGR brakes, KDP dead, EGT, Boost and Tran temp gauges. Billet TC, upgraded valve body.Three position TC lockup switch. Timing at 15.5

RPegram

Unless your housing is completed busted or missing, then yours is worth rebuilding. If you don't want to tackle it, then find a nearby shop that rebuilds starters and alternators. If you decide to tackle it, upgrade contacts in solenoid and brushes and it should be good to go. Normally when you can tap with a hammer, it is the brushes not making good contact with the armature. CarlJensen above has the link for both of those parts.

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'96 3500 2WD, auto, KDP fixed, trans-boost-pyro on the pillar, neither engine or trans stock

'01 2500, EC, LB, 4X4, NV5600 (replaced at 237,000), pacbrake, FP-boost-EGT on pillar, lift pump mounted under bed, what silencer ( can't find one), Superchips Programmer, (276,000 miles and going strong).

'92 Starcraft TT

cmac

thanks for your input everyone!! i am going to order the brushes and super contacts. is ti hard to solder in those brushes? it doesnt look too bad in the pictures. Thanks again!!!

infidel

My regular electronic soldering iron couldn't handle it, not enough wattage on the bigger than usual wires to get a good melt.

Old soldering gun that I rarely use did it no problem.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4x4 auto
'95 3500 5 speed flatbed hauler
stock for one day

cmac

so what kind of soldering gun did you use? and where can i get one? do you know what temp it runs at? also what type of solder are you using or are you attaching them like they were from the factory? looks to me like they were kinda welded on there somehow.

i am stumped on this one!! i guess i might be looking at taking it to a shop if i cant get something else to work. we had zero luck last night. i did however get the contacts replaced! they didnt look like they were the problem but they would have been soon. thanks!!

infidel

I just used a regular old soldering gun rather than a pencil type.
Heck if I know the wattage but bet they're all close to the same.
Used electronic solder.

cmac

awesome thanks Infidel!! i'll have to make a run to rural king or sears and see if i can find what i need. the ones we had were getting pretty hot but the solder wasn't doing the trick. Thanks again!!