GEN light again!
03-23-2005, 09:39 PM
#1
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GEN light again!
Ok this can be the first irritation that my cummins has given me
I just replaced an alternator, and one battery, tested both with a volt meter and one was dead, i dont see the gen light no more, but i do see that the voltage hasnt moved, the truck dont have any trouble starting, and runnin the accessories and still the voltage dont move higher or lower.. should i be concerned? i dont know what to do anymore... It wont deter me from my truck, but its just gotton kinda nervy
PS Voltage on the meter is running at about12 max,
Tx
I just replaced an alternator, and one battery, tested both with a volt meter and one was dead, i dont see the gen light no more, but i do see that the voltage hasnt moved, the truck dont have any trouble starting, and runnin the accessories and still the voltage dont move higher or lower.. should i be concerned? i dont know what to do anymore... It wont deter me from my truck, but its just gotton kinda nervy
PS Voltage on the meter is running at about12 max,
Tx
03-24-2005, 08:21 AM
#2
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What is the voltage reading?
If you don't the meter, you can use a volt meter at the battery, or by a cheep vat/alternator monitor with 3 led's that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I carry one of those with me.
gud luk
If you don't the meter, you can use a volt meter at the battery, or by a cheep vat/alternator monitor with 3 led's that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I carry one of those with me.
gud luk
03-24-2005, 08:36 PM
#3
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Update on this..
Two new batteries, battery cables checked, brand new alternator, cleaned terminals, cleaned battery posts, even though they are new, and still have the **** gen light on...
the only things im thinking, slipping fan belt, or screwed up gauge.. We stuck a voltmeter to is and according to my dad, its "barely charging" I have worked on this left and right and back to front, I have yet to find the problem, does anyone have any ideas?
The volt gauge inside the truck reads as low as 8 when i crank and start it, and tends to settle at about 12, or the very edge of the first little line goin all the way to the 18 from left to right...
Still irritated and now much more confused....
TX
Two new batteries, battery cables checked, brand new alternator, cleaned terminals, cleaned battery posts, even though they are new, and still have the **** gen light on...
the only things im thinking, slipping fan belt, or screwed up gauge.. We stuck a voltmeter to is and according to my dad, its "barely charging" I have worked on this left and right and back to front, I have yet to find the problem, does anyone have any ideas?
The volt gauge inside the truck reads as low as 8 when i crank and start it, and tends to settle at about 12, or the very edge of the first little line goin all the way to the 18 from left to right...
Still irritated and now much more confused....
TX
03-25-2005, 09:39 AM
#4
Registered User
Bad PCM, They can lose only the voltage regulation funtion somewhat commonly. Try adding an external voltage regulator. Easy and will only set you back around $20. Wires to the alt are interchangable.
03-25-2005, 01:30 PM
#5
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Called the local dealership..
they dont have the part, where can i get it, and how hard is it to install it? how much will i spend for it too? Part numbers? (if it isnt those already on the regulator in yellow) i think thats gotta be it, fan belt was changed and same thing...
Tx
they dont have the part, where can i get it, and how hard is it to install it? how much will i spend for it too? Part numbers? (if it isnt those already on the regulator in yellow) i think thats gotta be it, fan belt was changed and same thing...
Tx
03-25-2005, 02:36 PM
#6
Registered User
Go to any auto parts and tell them you want a 12 volt regulator with a pig tail connector. When they ask what kind of vehicle it's for tell them it doesn't matter that you are using it on a vehicle that never had a regulator. Any brand for any vehicle will work. All of them will have the same triangular pattern connector, just connect like the picture above. The positive will go to a swiched from the ignition positive.
Originally posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
You probably already have this straight, but just for the record in case you misunderstood.... The alternator has three terminals on it. It has the large terminal that is hot and through the main fuse, over 100 amps. You do not touch that one. There are two small terminals, generally with a plug in the back of the alternator. The only wires that go to those terminals are the two from the new regulator, the original wires have to be removed and taped off. The two terminals are interchangable, does not matter which is which. Neither of these can touch ground when hooked to the regulator. You should be also adding a ground wire from the frame of the alternator to the case of the regulator, generally under one of the mounting screws.
Once set up it is really simple and is very dependable. Mine is more stable than it ever was with the PCM controlling it.
How it works.... If 12+ is hooked to one terminal and 12- is hooked to the other terminal on the alternator, it will charge at max voltage and amperage. With the regulator system, 12+ is hooked to one terminal and the regulator modulates the negative to regulate the voltage output.
You probably already have this straight, but just for the record in case you misunderstood.... The alternator has three terminals on it. It has the large terminal that is hot and through the main fuse, over 100 amps. You do not touch that one. There are two small terminals, generally with a plug in the back of the alternator. The only wires that go to those terminals are the two from the new regulator, the original wires have to be removed and taped off. The two terminals are interchangable, does not matter which is which. Neither of these can touch ground when hooked to the regulator. You should be also adding a ground wire from the frame of the alternator to the case of the regulator, generally under one of the mounting screws.
Once set up it is really simple and is very dependable. Mine is more stable than it ever was with the PCM controlling it.
How it works.... If 12+ is hooked to one terminal and 12- is hooked to the other terminal on the alternator, it will charge at max voltage and amperage. With the regulator system, 12+ is hooked to one terminal and the regulator modulates the negative to regulate the voltage output.
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03-25-2005, 07:53 PM
#8
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Called the dealership for that part
with that part number.. no avail, wound up buyin a 12 dollar regulator, aint gonna start on it till tomorrow mornin... just gonna park the truck for the night.. thanks alot my friend!...
Tx
with that part number.. no avail, wound up buyin a 12 dollar regulator, aint gonna start on it till tomorrow mornin... just gonna park the truck for the night.. thanks alot my friend!...
Tx
03-26-2005, 07:52 AM
#9
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Try asking a part store for a regulator for a...
1973 Dodge Charger 400 CID 2 BBl Automatic Trans....
My car got one... As a matter of fact any 1970-1980 dodge vehices got one!
Just a bit old school...
1973 Dodge Charger 400 CID 2 BBl Automatic Trans....
My car got one... As a matter of fact any 1970-1980 dodge vehices got one!
Just a bit old school...
03-26-2005, 05:27 PM
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Mine will occasionally run low on voltage and set off the GEN light - then one or two trip or a day or two later - it's back to normal. Perhaps I may have to do this soon as well?
03-27-2005, 04:22 PM
#12
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I cant believe O riely, nor auto zone nor napa
dont carry the pigtail assembly for this thing.. My truck is parked until i can get all that fixed....
Gonzalez auto parts is my last hope and they dont open till tomorrow at 8 am, and i have class at 9 am.. bummer.....
PS voltage is now at 8 Max, truck will just barely turn over, have the batteries on chargers as we speak.......
I dont want to face it, but how much is a new PCM.. (why dont we have the crying smiley here like we do in the chat??)
Tx
dont carry the pigtail assembly for this thing.. My truck is parked until i can get all that fixed....
Gonzalez auto parts is my last hope and they dont open till tomorrow at 8 am, and i have class at 9 am.. bummer..... PS voltage is now at 8 Max, truck will just barely turn over, have the batteries on chargers as we speak.......
I dont want to face it, but how much is a new PCM.. (why dont we have the crying smiley here like we do in the chat??)
Tx
03-27-2005, 05:13 PM
#13
Registered User
My understanding is that the PCM is about $600 or $700. The regulator to be added is generally $7 and change at any parts store. If you can't find a pigtail for it, even from any old junk yard, push on connectors can be purchased from a parts supplier, they are a standard pin that is used all over a car, dozens of them under the dash on most older cars.
I was never satisfied with the PCM voltage control on my truck. Once the added regulator was on it is great. If you ever are worried about how it is regulating, $7 and five minutes to switch out a new one and you are back to new. There does seem to be a half a volt or more difference between winter and summer regulation, with the higher in the winter.
I would not fool with a dealer on the modifacton type of repair as they do not understand these things. Like my father in law of years ago, "the factory did not make it that way" "you think you are smarter than the engineers?" well in some cases
I was never satisfied with the PCM voltage control on my truck. Once the added regulator was on it is great. If you ever are worried about how it is regulating, $7 and five minutes to switch out a new one and you are back to new. There does seem to be a half a volt or more difference between winter and summer regulation, with the higher in the winter.
I would not fool with a dealer on the modifacton type of repair as they do not understand these things. Like my father in law of years ago, "the factory did not make it that way" "you think you are smarter than the engineers?" well in some cases
03-27-2005, 06:53 PM
#14
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Haulin, is correct just a couple of weeks ago the dealer wanted $600 for a new pcm. Found one though the junkyard network for $125 with a 90 day warranty. We were lucky the one we got worked in our application, many times the dealer has to reprogram them.
03-27-2005, 08:34 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Guys due to time lack tomorrow
I wanna get this done before class, any ideas or diagrams as to which is the ignition source wire that the regulator should go attatched to? If a picture isnt available its ok.. thanks guys!
Tx
I wanna get this done before class, any ideas or diagrams as to which is the ignition source wire that the regulator should go attatched to? If a picture isnt available its ok.. thanks guys!
Tx