Need help hole in oil pan DD down and out - Dodge Diesel

Mopar1973 · 07-26-2012, 10:10 AM

My father accidentally air chiseled a small hole in my oil pan on the 92 about a half inch to the left of the drain plug. I keep getting small drips of oil overnight and the JB weld will not mix together properly if wet so its just not working. I am currently trying a marine-grade epoxy known as PC-11 but I am uneasy about calling that a proper repair. Its my only mode of transportation and I could really use any input you may have in terms of fixing this. Is there a fix or do I have to replace the oil pan? Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

rebal · 07-26-2012, 10:20 AM

take it off and weld it or have it welded thats the best way

brainfade · 07-26-2012, 11:14 AM

It's really redneck but...get a sheet metal screw with a head like large washer, run it in there and weld around the outside edge of the head. I know it works but I'll never admit how I found out...

Santaclaus · 07-26-2012, 11:49 AM

I have found that if you apply a vacuum to the crankcase ( shop vack ). Start off by draining the oil after it stops dripping put the drain plug back in tilt the truck as best you can so that the oil will run away from the hole. Then while applying vacuum clean the area with Dawn detergent than rough up the area with a wire wheel that apply JB Weld. You might apply some heat to accelerate the drying but not much. This process work on a I/O unit it has been holding for five plus years last time I talked to him. Just my two cents, Mike.

bannerd · 07-26-2012, 02:18 PM

Bubble gum works..

I would weld it.. take the pan off and weld it. This is something you don't really want to play around with

93flatbed · 07-26-2012, 02:37 PM

Order a new one or find a used one not in the rust belt. Isn't there a noise baffle on the inside of the pan? I'd think that would prevent welding it, but I could be wrong.

Onemoparnut · 07-26-2012, 04:39 PM

From what I understand there are 2 layers of steel with sound insulation in between. I have never taken one apart to see that for myself though.

1972RedNeck · 07-26-2012, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brainfade

I know it works but I'll never admit how I found out...

Please?

rebal · 07-26-2012, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93flatbed

Order a new one or find a used one not in the rust belt. Isn't there a noise baffle on the inside of the pan? I'd think that would prevent welding it, but I could be wrong.

not in the bottom there is extra sheet metal epoxied ti the sides on the inside I just had the pan off a 92 and it is easy to weld the bottom

Jim Lane · 07-27-2012, 01:57 AM

Wow, I did not know they were steel, for some reason I was thinking they were cast aluminum. I know the 318's had a $1000.00 oil pan.

Is there a windage tray on the 6BT?

I was also going to say a Pullman shop vac to the crankcase, wire brush, acetone and then some HVAC epoxy.

But a proper repair would be to remove the pan and have it professionally welded.

Jim

bannerd · 07-27-2012, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Lane

Wow, I did not know they were steel, for some reason I was thinking they were cast aluminum. I know the 318's had a $1000.00 oil pan.

Is there a windage tray on the 6BT?

I was also going to say a Pullman shop vac to the crankcase, wire brush, acetone and then some HVAC epoxy.

But a proper repair would be to remove the pan and have it professionally welded.

Jim

I always wondered if mine was aluminum. It doesn't get that salt rust on there, but has a white powder. My brother has a 2nd gen cummins and I know those pans are steel.. his is flaking right off. Called cummins and nothing they can do.

Mountaineer · 07-27-2012, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Santaclaus

I have found that if you apply a vacuum to the crankcase ( shop vack ). Start off by draining the oil after it stops dripping put the drain plug back in tilt the truck as best you can so that the oil will run away from the hole. Then while applying vacuum clean the area with Dawn detergent than rough up the area with a wire wheel that apply JB Weld. You might apply some heat to accelerate the drying but not much. This process work on a I/O unit it has been holding for five plus years last time I talked to him. Just my two cents, Mike.

And use the quick setting kind if you do it.

j_martin · 07-27-2012, 10:11 AM

JB weld, or a commercial repair epoxy would probably work.

It would be dangerous to apply welding heat to the pan while on the truck, but if you did the vacuum trick, then thoroughly cleaned and sand around the split, spray a little non-chlorinated brake cleaner at it with the vacuum on, then solder it with acid core solder, it would be a permanent repair.

Don't use a flame for heat, but a big old fashioned 200 watt soldering iron.

Mopar1973 · 07-29-2012, 01:47 AM

I don't/didn't have that kind of time I needed it like yesterday so what I did in a pinch was used the Permatex fuel tank stopleak paste that hardens and believe it or not it worked. It applies wet and hardened with the few drops of oil. Welding seems better but I have never welded before and taking a MIG to my oil pan as the first lesson seemed like a pretty stupid idea. I ran the truck hard two days straight and it went through multiple heat cycles andI thoroughly flogged it and it has not leaked a drop. For the sake of argument JB weld sells a cold weld that applies on an active oil leak and dries in an hour (so the package says). If it even looks like its going to soften up or leak a drop I will use that stuff but I think the Permatex fixed it.

07-26-2012, 10:20 AM	#2
rebal Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Yuba city Kalifornia Posts: 3,888 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	take it off and weld it or have it welded thats the best way __________________ 1990 W250 bought new in Nov. 89 performance built 727 and torque converter , high miler 800 k kelderman air ride 2001 2500 HO 6spd 4x4, Engine brake ,fass,SBC 4" turbo back exhaust BHAF fluid damper,ARP head studs, DSS, Fast cools. wife says trucks fast enough:( How many of your rights are you willing to give up before you feel totally safe ?Wake Up People vote EVERYONE OF THE BUMS OUT OF OFFICE!

07-26-2012, 11:14 AM	#3
brainfade Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 330 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	It's really redneck but...get a sheet metal screw with a head like large washer, run it in there and weld around the outside edge of the head. I know it works but I'll never admit how I found out... __________________ '91.5 W250, G360, 4.10's, Big, Red and Stinky. Pyro, boost, BHAF, 16cm, pump lightly leaned on. Timing + 1/4 in. Now smoking with Stan's 4 in. turbo back and breathing with an HTT stage IV. Disks on the rear and Hydroboost in the works. "The mother of all parking brakes" on the driveline with 290,000 some odd miles. Hey, where'd those PODs go? Holy Cow! They're in the engine!

07-26-2012, 11:49 AM	#4
Santaclaus Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Pensacola, Fl. Posts: 342 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I have found that if you apply a vacuum to the crankcase ( shop vack ). Start off by draining the oil after it stops dripping put the drain plug back in tilt the truck as best you can so that the oil will run away from the hole. Then while applying vacuum clean the area with Dawn detergent than rough up the area with a wire wheel that apply JB Weld. You might apply some heat to accelerate the drying but not much. This process work on a I/O unit it has been holding for five plus years last time I talked to him. Just my two cents, Mike. __________________ 92, Extended cab, auto trans, exhaust, boost, tack, oil pressure gauges. Pensacola, Fl.

07-26-2012, 02:37 PM	#6
93flatbed Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Buckeye, AZ Posts: 1,657 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Order a new one or find a used one not in the rust belt. Isn't there a noise baffle on the inside of the pan? I'd think that would prevent welding it, but I could be wrong. __________________ 1993 W250, single cab, hunting for Jeremy. 1981 crew cab powered by 93 w250 drivetrain Special thanks to Rob @ highway chopper for machine and head work.

07-26-2012, 04:39 PM	#7
Onemoparnut Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Southern New Jersey Posts: 3,821 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	From what I understand there are 2 layers of steel with sound insulation in between. I have never taken one apart to see that for myself though. __________________ Bill 91.5 D350 regular cab dually 3.54, Built 518,Goerend convertor,potentiometer, isspro tach, 60psi boost gauge, pyrometer, trans temp gauge, fuel pressure gauge, 4" de exhaust, bd killer b 63/68/14, arp studs, ported and polished head, 3 piece manifold, 366 spring, DennyT II, Half turn from runaway, dap 5x14's, grid heater delete, custom air box and bhaf. Fass and 1/2" fuel lines . 208,000 mi. Kdp killed.

07-26-2012, 02:18 PM	#5
bannerd Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 812 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Bubble gum works.. I would weld it.. take the pan off and weld it. This is something you don't really want to play around with

07-27-2012, 01:57 AM	#10
Jim Lane Administrator Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Southern California Posts: 2,926 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Wow, I did not know they were steel, for some reason I was thinking they were cast aluminum. I know the 318's had a $1000.00 oil pan. Is there a windage tray on the 6BT? I was also going to say a Pullman shop vac to the crankcase, wire brush, acetone and then some HVAC epoxy. But a proper repair would be to remove the pan and have it professionally welded. Jim __________________ 1991 D-350 LE dually, 727 auto, ps, pb, cloth interior, 6BT, banks exhaust, RAM AIR, Leece Neville 160-amp alt, triple batteries, relay controlled Silver Star headlamps, LED marker lamps, ICC headlamp "flash" switch, grover air horn, full gauges, RED UH-1 cockpit light, 1,000,000 CP unity spotlight, 3000 watt inverter, First Aid crash kit, military style pintle hitch. Lot’s of pictures in my gallery. "Truck Of the Month" for August, 2005

07-27-2012, 10:11 AM	#13
j_martin Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Isanti, MN Posts: 1,604 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	JB weld, or a commercial repair epoxy would probably work. It would be dangerous to apply welding heat to the pan while on the truck, but if you did the vacuum trick, then thoroughly cleaned and sand around the split, spray a little non-chlorinated brake cleaner at it with the vacuum on, then solder it with acid core solder, it would be a permanent repair. Don't use a flame for heat, but a big old fashioned 200 watt soldering iron. __________________ 93 D350 LE extended cab. Set up to pull recreation double. To fish or not to fish? What a stupid question.

07-29-2012, 01:47 AM	#14
Mopar1973 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: South Jersey Posts: 344 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I don't/didn't have that kind of time I needed it like yesterday so what I did in a pinch was used the Permatex fuel tank stopleak paste that hardens and believe it or not it worked. It applies wet and hardened with the few drops of oil. Welding seems better but I have never welded before and taking a MIG to my oil pan as the first lesson seemed like a pretty stupid idea. I ran the truck hard two days straight and it went through multiple heat cycles andI thoroughly flogged it and it has not leaked a drop. For the sake of argument JB weld sells a cold weld that applies on an active oil leak and dries in an hour (so the package says). If it even looks like its going to soften up or leak a drop I will use that stuff but I think the Permatex fixed it.

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