feveree40

I put my home made traction bars on when I put it my rebuilt rear a few weeks ago. They haven't given me any trouble yet, and seem to help a lot with axle hop, but don't limit the articulation too much.
Here is where it all began, a before test of how flexible it was.


My jack ran out of lift before I could lift the front left off the ground, but it was close. I haven't had a chance to officialy test the after. As soon as I get the trans back in I'll get some pictures of that.

I made the bars themselves out of top links that I lengthened.

I cut the top links in half, stuck 2' pieces of 1-1/2" pipe into each end and welded them in for guides. Then I took 2" pipe (same OD as links) and slid it over the 1-1/2" guides, and welded it all together. The bar itself is just under 6' long.

The bars attach to the axle with a bracket I made to bolt onto the u-bolts. The base and shock tabs are cut from 1/4" steel.

They bolt on like so.


The bars attach to the frame with brackets I made from 2x2 angle iron and more 1/4" shock tabs.

They bolt on the frame right before it flattens out under the cab. The front most mounting bolt is shared with the skid plate.


All mounted on and it looks like this


I only spent about $60 on the whole thing. Its more of a prototype, if I do it agian I'll make everything heavier. Thick wall tube, 1/2" plate for axle mount, 3x3 angle iron etc. I took the truck off roading at rausch creek two weeks ago, and it did great. The bars did not get in the way, and held up to the rocks and logs I threw at them. I also towed my buddy's jeep home that week and the bars really shown there. Axle hop was much much less than I had experienced towing before. Let me know what you think, and if you have any suggestions.

mullishacrew

looks awsome! i was planning on making some for my truck in my metal work class today, where did you get the end links from? i was thinking of doing that or making the ends fixed where they cant be adjustable, they will only have bushings in side of 2" tubing and then the tabs like you did to bolt them up into, but i like the set up lots, and the lift of your truck is good also, im saving for the 4" skyjacker with my 3" hockey puck body lift haha.

1stGen545

Looks really good. That's what I did too. No axle wrap or hop at the sled pulls.

They are just tractor 3-point hitch top link. you can get them at any Ag shop or TSC. I have seen lots of guys pay $300-$400 for the same thing that some own else made for $50 and made them think that it was some thing special.

dieselcarpenter

They look way cool! Good job! I am interested in how the last.
Been thinking about the DIY route vs LAZAR SMITH my self.

Don't let XLR8R see! JK

red_neck1984

Lets get some blue prints.I wont some

pulltilbroke

Looks good They look about like mine

DodgerDoob

I'd be very interested in a little more in depth explanation of how you made them. I've heard some people rail against tractor top links in favor of really expensive heim joints. but I've only seen a top link break once and it wasn't the heim joint.

feveree40

thanks for the replies. If anybody wants more pics or detailed drawings just send me a pm. To do it right those "expensive heim joints" would be the way to go. I'm sure they will last longer and they can be welded right into thick wall tube. My design is cheap and simple. It seems to get the job done, but if it breaks or wears out its not a big loss and I can do it right the second time round.

RowJ

Problem is...weakest link is usually the front mount! you have what... 4 bolts?

Might want to rig some retaining straps to the front of bars (just in case).... to prevent worse case scenario..... which is "Pole Vaulting".

They look really sharp!

RJ

feveree40

Pole vaulting I was never very good at that in gym class, can't imagine the truck would be much better, very good point there RowJ. I've got to make some straps around the driveshaft so I can pull, might as well do the same for the traction bars.

RowJ

Don't know much about pulling but traction bar straps are required at many drag strips! assumed they would be for pulling also??

RJ

Deezel Nate

The tractor links are "ok" strong, but the issue with them is they are not very tight when brand new, and will only get worse. So the bars will constantly clunk.

If the bars are just thrown on for sled pulling or whatever, no big deal, but if you keep them on, I bet the clunking would drive most people nuts.

Even the expensive heims do it after a while. I personally like the uniball type joints (Johnny Joint, RE Joint, etc).

pulltilbroke

Mine always clunk
Another thing you could do is get rid of the cheap lock tab and use nuts

RowJ

Why would they 'clunk'.... unless you don't keep compression on them??

Mine have tabs and I have no problems??

RJ

DodgerDoob

I understand they limit axle wrap, but to be most effective do they need to push back on the axle or pull it forward?