NipponDenso Alternator Regulator
05-01-2007, 01:51 AM
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NipponDenso Alternator Regulator
The Chrysler flatpack regulator didn't work on my alternator, a NipponDenso 120 amp. I don't know what year it is; someone that knows more than me may be able to post.
Transpo makes an aftermarket internal regulator, P/N IN8315, to bypass the PCM after the regulator circuit burns out. Apparently it was a chronic problem with ND 120 amp alternators. Your friendly neighborhood alternator rebuilder may be able to supply one if you're looking.
The one I bought came with good directions.
1. Get the alternator on a bench.
2. Remove the heat shield (back cover) and mount the regulator to the brush holder. The black wire connects under the screw that also holds the regulator to the brush holder. The red wire connects under the screw on the left that taps the battery output terminal.
3. Run the green and orange wires (field wires) with the protective tubing under the gap in the heat shield and outside it. Replace the heat shield and connect the orange wire to the terminal that takes 12 volt ignition on field connection; connect the green wire to the other field connection. Mine was connected as you see in the picture, orange on the left field connection and green on the right; yours may be different. The directions say to make sure to test the field wire connections in your harness and connect the orange wire to the 12 volt ignition switch field connection and the green wire to the other field connection. Bend the OEM harness green wire connection out of the way and tape it so it doesn't short out to anything.
I could have run the orange and green wires through the slot in the cover under the field connections. I didn't to avoid bending the terminals too sharply to make the connections.
Test the alternator output with the engine running. It should be 14.2 volts.
My installation works well. It puts out 14.2 volts at all speeds.
With the flat pack regulator I was getting 18 volts at WOT and barely 12 at idle.
Good luck,
Jim
Transpo makes an aftermarket internal regulator, P/N IN8315, to bypass the PCM after the regulator circuit burns out. Apparently it was a chronic problem with ND 120 amp alternators. Your friendly neighborhood alternator rebuilder may be able to supply one if you're looking.
The one I bought came with good directions.
1. Get the alternator on a bench.
2. Remove the heat shield (back cover) and mount the regulator to the brush holder. The black wire connects under the screw that also holds the regulator to the brush holder. The red wire connects under the screw on the left that taps the battery output terminal.
3. Run the green and orange wires (field wires) with the protective tubing under the gap in the heat shield and outside it. Replace the heat shield and connect the orange wire to the terminal that takes 12 volt ignition on field connection; connect the green wire to the other field connection. Mine was connected as you see in the picture, orange on the left field connection and green on the right; yours may be different. The directions say to make sure to test the field wire connections in your harness and connect the orange wire to the 12 volt ignition switch field connection and the green wire to the other field connection. Bend the OEM harness green wire connection out of the way and tape it so it doesn't short out to anything.
I could have run the orange and green wires through the slot in the cover under the field connections. I didn't to avoid bending the terminals too sharply to make the connections.
Test the alternator output with the engine running. It should be 14.2 volts.
My installation works well. It puts out 14.2 volts at all speeds.
With the flat pack regulator I was getting 18 volts at WOT and barely 12 at idle.
Good luck,
Jim
05-01-2007, 08:19 PM
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NipponDenso Alternator Regulator
Thanks, Dave! I was hoping that would make it to the Sticky. DTR is the best forum for trouble shooting truck problems I've ever seen! I'm glad to contribute.
Jim
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03-05-2011, 05:20 PM
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http://search.waiglobal.com/partnum.aspx?part=IN8315
03-05-2011, 07:29 PM
#11
From Diesel Bombers web site.
It's the Cummins alternator with a two wire conversion part, got it from the local napa, Transpo PN IN8315. Cost just under $35 after tax.
Maybe this what I need to do.
It's the Cummins alternator with a two wire conversion part, got it from the local napa, Transpo PN IN8315. Cost just under $35 after tax.
Maybe this what I need to do.
03-06-2011, 12:25 AM
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I saw that also from lots of google searching earlier. Maybe I need to bug the parts monkeys at Napa a little more. They said they did not carry it, even after I gave the part number. I then asked if they could look it up just by a nippondenso 120a alternator and he still couldn't find it.
However, it isn't the first time they told me they could not get something and I would either find it myself on their own website, or I'd find a part number from one of you fine gentlemen. I'm hoping they have it since my local Alternator guy is out of business, so I'll have to drive further to source specialty parts such as this.
However, it isn't the first time they told me they could not get something and I would either find it myself on their own website, or I'd find a part number from one of you fine gentlemen. I'm hoping they have it since my local Alternator guy is out of business, so I'll have to drive further to source specialty parts such as this.
03-24-2012, 06:31 PM
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i have a setup similar to this on my truck, only problem is im not getting 12 volts when the ignition turns on the part that goes on the left field..any ideas why? thanks in advance
