KRB

I had the dreaded DW a couple years ago, mostly when braking and worse on downhill braking. Replaced the upper kingpin bushings and springs and all was well.

Now have developed a similar sensation but all in the steering wheel. At first it felt like a slipped belt - a jerking in the steering wheel. Mostly felt it when turning right and going uphill (lots of hills around here). Then when turning a hard right onto a highway and accelerating it felt like a tierod end pulled out or the lug nuts had loosened. Pulled over and all "looked" right. Started up again and was fine but scared the pee out of me!

I've inspected everything up front I could think of:
Tires (Michelin XLs, not rotated front to back yet thought)
Tie rod ends (one had play so R&Red)
Drag link (fairly new)
Steering shaft (old Borgeson)
Steering plate & frame mounts
Springs
Spring perch rivets
Spring u-bolts

I feel no play when on jacks and can't see any either. Put in new KP bushings and springs again as the springs were fatigued about 4mm. Still have it and now feel it when turning left too. Mostly when turning quick or hard. Sometimes it drives out of it, sometimes I have to stop and start again. Otherwise truck behaves completely normal, even at highway speeds and even on uneven/rough roads. Same whether unloaded, loaded or towing.

Beginning to wonder if it could be in the steering box? At first it almost seems like the steering is catching then releasing maybe? I drained some fluid after hauling calves last night and the steering fluid "looked" clean and fresh still, no sparkles. Couldn't be vacuum as my brakes are fine, right?

What am I missing or overlooking? I've never replaced the lower KP bearings and plan to drop that plate next to inspect and probably R&R those just for preventative maintenance if nothing else.

Ideas?

NJTman

Have you balanced the tires ? or had them checked ? Mine were out a bit within a few months of installation, causing a bit of steering wobble. Brought them back, and turns out the snotty nosed kid didn't balance them correctly from the start.


Ugh..... There's basic steel wheels. How can you not balance them correctly ?




The lower KP assembly tightened things up when I did mine 5-6 years back.

KRB

Not balanced them since installing. But I need to get it aligned since I replaced the tierod end so good idea, I'll have all that done once I replace the other tierod end this weekend.
Thanks,

KRB

BTW Tman, is the lower KP bearing R&R as simple as dropping the cap and replacing? Looks like it from the diagram. I keep it regularly greased and have never replaced them but we flood regular here so I occasionally have to drive through high water but never over my hubs - but maybe over those bearings...

u2slow

I have run 9.00R16 XL's in the past.... they can be tricky to get to behave properly.

Did you go straight from stock size tires to the XL's? Are they on stock wheels, or wheels with less backspacing? Do you have a steering stabilizer?

You may need to increase your track and/or caster and/or add a stabilizer, as going taller without going wider can reduce the tire's rotational stability (reduced scrub radius because the steering axis angle is static).

dodgenstein

Check the axle u-joints. If they get stiff they can cause steering issues even when hubs are unlocked.

KRB

The Michelins are stock size LTXs, sorry if I wasn’t clear.

I wondered about the axle u-joints but figured if I’m in 2X4 with hubs unlocked they wouldn’t factor in. How would it matter, they spin from fluid friction? I’d been meaning to lock them in and drive and see how it behaved both during and after.

dodgenstein

They still have to bend with every turn. If they bind they will try to rotate, and resist steering input.

NJTman

Honestly, I cannot remember. Mark maybe368 has a kingpin thread with explanation and photos. Might want to review it. I believe the bottom KP is easier than the cone replacement of,the top.


The bad axle joints affect steering while turning, even when not engaged. Mine froze up on one side, and when I made a turn, the truck refused to return to driving straight, nearly forcing me to drive up and over the curb.

KRB

They look that simple, I'll re-visit his thread.

Guess I better inspect the axle joints closer then. I'll put the front on stand and turn the wheels side to side while spinning and see.

Thanks guys,

wcurb

KRB, based on your description, i am having similar issue. when turning, steering wheel seems to stick, get a hard jerk(s), seems to most common occur at 25 - 30 mph speeds when making curves to the right.
trying to fix, i replaced 2x sticky tie ends, bad draglink, installed Borgeson shaft, flushed steering gear oil, and alignment. none of these fixed the problem
now all is tight when suspended. nothing binds when parked/ engine running and turning steer wheel from stop to stop

Doing some more research, i found this posted by "Mysteryman" on TDR 1st gen forum - "replace the factory plastic pistons in the front calipers with steel pistons. . . the plastic pistons swell over time . This causes the pistons to stick and or not release enough causing rapid rotor/pad wear. . ."
i have observed doing some zesty brake application seems to make the problem go away for a bit
So last night i ordered replace reman calipers with metal pistons, will install when they arrive. hoping this gets rid of my scary jerk...

Dodgenstein - you make excellent point, will check the front shaft joints as well

thanks,
Bill

KRB

Yea, you guys were right about the front axle u-joints. I put it in 4X4 and could really feel the binding. I jacked up the front end and turned wheels side to side. The passenger short shaft binds and locks up.

NJTman

I had this happen several times, and once I switched to Spicer non greasable joints, it's been good for years since.

The aftermarket Ujoints I've purchased here, say from Autozone, or Pepboys are inferior by comparison to quality. The seals are too weak, and the grease blows out. They type of grease they use doesn't repel water, and in one instance, the passages in the cross weren't even drilled through fully. This is the reason why 2 caps rotted solid, and two caps always had good grease in them.

I will NEVER go back to other brands of U joints. These Spicer units are far superior, and the price difference doesn't make me cringe.

oliver foster

I agree. I just put Spicer non grease able U-joint in the front axle of Poncho last winter.

Angry Johnny

Generally the non greasable joints are solid crosses. Much stronger than the drilled crosses. I used solid u joints in the race car and even though they were smaller they held up to the abuse.