B3.3T Jeep YJ
02-04-2008, 07:12 AM
#213
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Thanks. I shot a couple engine bay vids: One of the jeep with motor running and one of my VW TDI running with it's sound insulation top cover off . The B3.3T is louder, but not horribly so. I'll try to get those posted in the next couple days.
02-06-2008, 09:04 PM
#215
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I have been following this thread for a few months and thought I would chime in. I put a 3.3 cummins in a 99 GMC Sonoma extended cab. Just got it road worthy last week and have only put about 15 miles on it. Still have a list of things to fix but the worst problem I have is vibration. I had the bright idea to use polyurethane motor mounts to keep engine movement to a minimum but they transmit to much vibration to the chassis. I have a set of rubber mounts on order but haven't got them yet.
Back to the truck it was a 5speed with a 4.3 v6 originally. I used the phoenix casting adapters(got the right ones on the second try as I had a similar issue with a shorter engine side housing. I used the existing trans which is a NV3500. And the factory rearend has 3.08 gears. I moved the engine and trans back approx 3" for clearance and to get more weight off the nose of the truck. I also fabricated a new oil pan an clearanced the front crossmember so it would all fit under the stock hood.
One other item i changed was the flywheel. The original 4.3 flywheel weighed in at 44lbs and caused a decent amount of vibration being externally balanced. I changed it to a neutral balance RAM flywheel for a circle track car that only weighs 16lbs. It cut my vibrations in half and really helped accelleration.
Sorry to ramble just excited I got my project running and it has great power for a small truck.
One question for TDIwyse do you hear alot of turbo whine from your engine? Mine is very noticeable at low boost but once it gets to 3 or 4 pounds the noise almost goes away. It is annoying at about 45-50 in overdrive but is very quiet above 65.
Back to the truck it was a 5speed with a 4.3 v6 originally. I used the phoenix casting adapters(got the right ones on the second try as I had a similar issue with a shorter engine side housing. I used the existing trans which is a NV3500. And the factory rearend has 3.08 gears. I moved the engine and trans back approx 3" for clearance and to get more weight off the nose of the truck. I also fabricated a new oil pan an clearanced the front crossmember so it would all fit under the stock hood.
One other item i changed was the flywheel. The original 4.3 flywheel weighed in at 44lbs and caused a decent amount of vibration being externally balanced. I changed it to a neutral balance RAM flywheel for a circle track car that only weighs 16lbs. It cut my vibrations in half and really helped accelleration.
Sorry to ramble just excited I got my project running and it has great power for a small truck.
One question for TDIwyse do you hear alot of turbo whine from your engine? Mine is very noticeable at low boost but once it gets to 3 or 4 pounds the noise almost goes away. It is annoying at about 45-50 in overdrive but is very quiet above 65.
02-07-2008, 07:54 AM
#216
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Nice! Are you using the B3.3T or the QSB3.3? Do you have a writeup somewhere? I'd like to see more details!
I've tried using a polyurethan trans mount after I noticed the rubber one was destroyed. It vibrated A LOT with that trans mount so I can only imagine what having motor mounts would do! I went back to using rubber mounts everywhere and its very smooth at rpm's above ~1k. At idle ~900rpms its not super smooth, but unless it's really cold (<20F) it's not vibrating enough to move the mirrors. The one youtube video of it at idle I film the rearview mirror and you can see it's steady. Does the vibration change with rpm?
I also went with a lighter weight flywheel (not as light as yours though) that was for the newer GM V8's and it had a small external balancing weight. In hindsight I was thinking I should've ground that off but I wanted to be able to sell as much stuff as possible if the project didn't work out. I would think going to rubber mounts is going to really help your vibrations. If not then maybe my engine's minimal vibes is due to blind luck on getting the flywheel balancing weight in a good location?
I think your 3.08 axle ratio is a good match for this engine.
I don't notice any turbo whine on mine. I sometimes notice it on my Ram, but haven't on the jeep. And it's only at really low boost that you notice it?
I've tried using a polyurethan trans mount after I noticed the rubber one was destroyed. It vibrated A LOT with that trans mount so I can only imagine what having motor mounts would do! I went back to using rubber mounts everywhere and its very smooth at rpm's above ~1k. At idle ~900rpms its not super smooth, but unless it's really cold (<20F) it's not vibrating enough to move the mirrors. The one youtube video of it at idle I film the rearview mirror and you can see it's steady. Does the vibration change with rpm?
I also went with a lighter weight flywheel (not as light as yours though) that was for the newer GM V8's and it had a small external balancing weight. In hindsight I was thinking I should've ground that off but I wanted to be able to sell as much stuff as possible if the project didn't work out. I would think going to rubber mounts is going to really help your vibrations. If not then maybe my engine's minimal vibes is due to blind luck on getting the flywheel balancing weight in a good location?
I think your 3.08 axle ratio is a good match for this engine.
I don't notice any turbo whine on mine. I sometimes notice it on my Ram, but haven't on the jeep. And it's only at really low boost that you notice it?
I have been following this thread for a few months and thought I would chime in. I put a 3.3 cummins in a 99 GMC Sonoma extended cab. Just got it road worthy last week and have only put about 15 miles on it. Still have a list of things to fix but the worst problem I have is vibration. I had the bright idea to use polyurethane motor mounts to keep engine movement to a minimum but they transmit to much vibration to the chassis. I have a set of rubber mounts on order but haven't got them yet.
Back to the truck it was a 5speed with a 4.3 v6 originally. I used the phoenix casting adapters(got the right ones on the second try as I had a similar issue with a shorter engine side housing. I used the existing trans which is a NV3500. And the factory rearend has 3.08 gears. I moved the engine and trans back approx 3" for clearance and to get more weight off the nose of the truck. I also fabricated a new oil pan an clearanced the front crossmember so it would all fit under the stock hood.
One other item i changed was the flywheel. The original 4.3 flywheel weighed in at 44lbs and caused a decent amount of vibration being externally balanced. I changed it to a neutral balance RAM flywheel for a circle track car that only weighs 16lbs. It cut my vibrations in half and really helped accelleration.
Sorry to ramble just excited I got my project running and it has great power for a small truck.
One question for TDIwyse do you hear alot of turbo whine from your engine? Mine is very noticeable at low boost but once it gets to 3 or 4 pounds the noise almost goes away. It is annoying at about 45-50 in overdrive but is very quiet above 65.
Back to the truck it was a 5speed with a 4.3 v6 originally. I used the phoenix casting adapters(got the right ones on the second try as I had a similar issue with a shorter engine side housing. I used the existing trans which is a NV3500. And the factory rearend has 3.08 gears. I moved the engine and trans back approx 3" for clearance and to get more weight off the nose of the truck. I also fabricated a new oil pan an clearanced the front crossmember so it would all fit under the stock hood.
One other item i changed was the flywheel. The original 4.3 flywheel weighed in at 44lbs and caused a decent amount of vibration being externally balanced. I changed it to a neutral balance RAM flywheel for a circle track car that only weighs 16lbs. It cut my vibrations in half and really helped accelleration.
Sorry to ramble just excited I got my project running and it has great power for a small truck.
One question for TDIwyse do you hear alot of turbo whine from your engine? Mine is very noticeable at low boost but once it gets to 3 or 4 pounds the noise almost goes away. It is annoying at about 45-50 in overdrive but is very quiet above 65.
02-07-2008, 09:18 AM
#217
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As I'm thinking about the flywheel thing I'm not sure if my memory is correct. I thought it was a 153 tooth flywheel for a GM V8, which some quick online searches indicate would be a neutrally balanced flywheel. I'll try to find my receipt tonight and see what I actually used.
02-07-2008, 09:42 AM
#219
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Called my wife and she found my receipt. This is what I used:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtNumber=04633
It says it's about 16 lbs and was used on 86-92 Camaro and 86-88 Corvette. These guys used a small balancing weight on the flywheel.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtNumber=04633
It says it's about 16 lbs and was used on 86-92 Camaro and 86-88 Corvette. These guys used a small balancing weight on the flywheel.
02-07-2008, 10:35 AM
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Don't really have my own write up anywhere. Posted a few times on 4btswaps.com. I am located west of chicago near Sandwich, IL
I am wondering since I did not buy the exhaust adapter from cummins and instead made a downpipe and got a v bandclamp and flanges from summit and just welded it to each side if that is the reason for the turbo whine.
I did drive the truck once with the heavy 4.3 flywheel and you could tell it hampered acceleration compared to the light one I used. My thought was there is already a heavy flywheel on the engine and I did not need to add a lot of mass with the second one.
I saw alot of posts about power steering and even figured out a way to use the pto drive to drive power steering pump from a 3126 cat but it was going to cost $500-$600 so instead I bought a manual steering box from a mid 80s s10 for $50 and it is just fine for me.
Still working on the A/C part
I am wondering since I did not buy the exhaust adapter from cummins and instead made a downpipe and got a v bandclamp and flanges from summit and just welded it to each side if that is the reason for the turbo whine.
I did drive the truck once with the heavy 4.3 flywheel and you could tell it hampered acceleration compared to the light one I used. My thought was there is already a heavy flywheel on the engine and I did not need to add a lot of mass with the second one.
I saw alot of posts about power steering and even figured out a way to use the pto drive to drive power steering pump from a 3126 cat but it was going to cost $500-$600 so instead I bought a manual steering box from a mid 80s s10 for $50 and it is just fine for me.
Still working on the A/C part
02-07-2008, 10:48 AM
#221
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The engine is a B3.3T 85hp version. It appears the only difference from my engine to yours is the engine side bellhousing. I had to order a different flywheel adapter from phoenix casting as my engine housing is 1.125" shollower than standard if that makes sense.
02-07-2008, 10:55 AM
#222
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Thread Starter
Interesting thought on the exhaust clamp. Sorry I'm no help on that.
I had similiar thoughts on the flywheel. I think this is why I went with the lightweight flywheel even though it had a balancing weight. I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on the long term impact this will have. Since I rarely spin the engine above ~2200 rpm's and it's internals are so heavy compared to the little flywheel, is it a problem? If there's a problem with imbalance would it show up in oil analysis as excess wear metals?
I had similiar thoughts on the flywheel. I think this is why I went with the lightweight flywheel even though it had a balancing weight. I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on the long term impact this will have. Since I rarely spin the engine above ~2200 rpm's and it's internals are so heavy compared to the little flywheel, is it a problem? If there's a problem with imbalance would it show up in oil analysis as excess wear metals?
Don't really have my own write up anywhere. Posted a few times on 4btswaps.com. I am located west of chicago near Sandwich, IL
I am wondering since I did not buy the exhaust adapter from cummins and instead made a downpipe and got a v bandclamp and flanges from summit and just welded it to each side if that is the reason for the turbo whine.
I did drive the truck once with the heavy 4.3 flywheel and you could tell it hampered acceleration compared to the light one I used. My thought was there is already a heavy flywheel on the engine and I did not need to add a lot of mass with the second one.
I saw alot of posts about power steering and even figured out a way to use the pto drive to drive power steering pump from a 3126 cat but it was going to cost $500-$600 so instead I bought a manual steering box from a mid 80s s10 for $50 and it is just fine for me.
Still working on the A/C part
I am wondering since I did not buy the exhaust adapter from cummins and instead made a downpipe and got a v bandclamp and flanges from summit and just welded it to each side if that is the reason for the turbo whine.
I did drive the truck once with the heavy 4.3 flywheel and you could tell it hampered acceleration compared to the light one I used. My thought was there is already a heavy flywheel on the engine and I did not need to add a lot of mass with the second one.
I saw alot of posts about power steering and even figured out a way to use the pto drive to drive power steering pump from a 3126 cat but it was going to cost $500-$600 so instead I bought a manual steering box from a mid 80s s10 for $50 and it is just fine for me.
Still working on the A/C part
02-07-2008, 12:34 PM
#223
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Just a little insight after my build. I think if I had to do it over again I would have tried to find a 1/2 ton shortbed regular cab truck. Alot more room under the hood and I still think the 3.3 would have enough power for a truck that size.
The swap I did is not for the person without quite a few fabrication skills as I had to remove and widen the trans tunnel near the firewall, remade the oil pan to clear front cross member, removed half of front crossmember and built second crossmember, modified trans crossmember for setback. Most of this was done so the engine would fit under the factory hood.
The main purpose of my build was I wanted a truck to drive to work but needed something that got better mileage than my 6.0 superduty(I drive 118 miles round trip to work. I also drive trough chicago traffic and a few higher class towns so I wanted the engine to fit under the stock hood and i used a 7.3 superduty exhaust system with aftermarket 4" MBRP muffler from my 6 liter to keep noise levels down. I am very happy with the finished project so far as the truck has plenty of power at highway speed and tops out at 92 MPH with the current gearing. The factory dash all works except for the tach. I hope to have fuel mileage #s this weekend as I plan on taking the truck on its first long trip of about 110 miles
The swap I did is not for the person without quite a few fabrication skills as I had to remove and widen the trans tunnel near the firewall, remade the oil pan to clear front cross member, removed half of front crossmember and built second crossmember, modified trans crossmember for setback. Most of this was done so the engine would fit under the factory hood.
The main purpose of my build was I wanted a truck to drive to work but needed something that got better mileage than my 6.0 superduty(I drive 118 miles round trip to work. I also drive trough chicago traffic and a few higher class towns so I wanted the engine to fit under the stock hood and i used a 7.3 superduty exhaust system with aftermarket 4" MBRP muffler from my 6 liter to keep noise levels down. I am very happy with the finished project so far as the truck has plenty of power at highway speed and tops out at 92 MPH with the current gearing. The factory dash all works except for the tach. I hope to have fuel mileage #s this weekend as I plan on taking the truck on its first long trip of about 110 miles
02-07-2008, 12:42 PM
#224
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Thread Starter
Oh man am I excited! You gotta start a thread with some pics.
Regarding the tach, I've been really happy with the Dakota Digital adapter I've been using.
Regarding the tach, I've been really happy with the Dakota Digital adapter I've been using.
Just a little insight after my build. I think if I had to do it over again I would have tried to find a 1/2 ton shortbed regular cab truck. Alot more room under the hood and I still think the 3.3 would have enough power for a truck that size.
The swap I did is not for the person without quite a few fabrication skills as I had to remove and widen the trans tunnel near the firewall, remade the oil pan to clear front cross member, removed half of front crossmember and built second crossmember, modified trans crossmember for setback. Most of this was done so the engine would fit under the factory hood.
The main purpose of my build was I wanted a truck to drive to work but needed something that got better mileage than my 6.0 superduty(I drive 118 miles round trip to work. I also drive trough chicago traffic and a few higher class towns so I wanted the engine to fit under the stock hood and i used a 7.3 superduty exhaust system with aftermarket 4" MBRP muffler from my 6 liter to keep noise levels down. I am very happy with the finished project so far as the truck has plenty of power at highway speed and tops out at 92 MPH with the current gearing. The factory dash all works except for the tach. I hope to have fuel mileage #s this weekend as I plan on taking the truck on its first long trip of about 110 miles
The swap I did is not for the person without quite a few fabrication skills as I had to remove and widen the trans tunnel near the firewall, remade the oil pan to clear front cross member, removed half of front crossmember and built second crossmember, modified trans crossmember for setback. Most of this was done so the engine would fit under the factory hood.
The main purpose of my build was I wanted a truck to drive to work but needed something that got better mileage than my 6.0 superduty(I drive 118 miles round trip to work. I also drive trough chicago traffic and a few higher class towns so I wanted the engine to fit under the stock hood and i used a 7.3 superduty exhaust system with aftermarket 4" MBRP muffler from my 6 liter to keep noise levels down. I am very happy with the finished project so far as the truck has plenty of power at highway speed and tops out at 92 MPH with the current gearing. The factory dash all works except for the tach. I hope to have fuel mileage #s this weekend as I plan on taking the truck on its first long trip of about 110 miles
02-07-2008, 01:16 PM
#225
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Yeah if I put in a tach I was going to use the dakota digital setup and an after market tach. The stock tach runs out of the pcm and looks like it would be difficult. The wiring took me a good three full days and was real happy when finished. My service engine and battery lights stay on because the computer doesn't know the engine ever started but I am ok with the two lights since I got everthing else to work. It was interesting doing the wiring since there is a PCM (engine management computer) and a BCM( body control computer) but in the end even my automatic on off headlights still work.
I will try to take some pics this weekend
I will try to take some pics this weekend