FASS HARD START FIX...another option....
05-04-2006, 07:10 PM
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FASS HARD START FIX...another option....
OK...i have been giving this some thought and have a few out there trying this. So far so good. Here is what i came up with:
This is only for the new harnesses with the Relay and Red/Green wire to the BATT.
Find the red wire in the FASS harness that goes from the Relay to the Stock Engine harness. What you want to do is cut this wire where (IF you have too) can splice it back together. This is the sensor wire for the relay and turns the FASS on.
Now solder or butt-splice (Whatever you prefer...just make it solid) a length of wire to the end that runs to the relay. You will need to run this into the cab and to the Fuse box. you will need to locate your Electric window fuse. Get a fuse tap and tap into the fuse. For those of you that don’t like taping into the fuse box, just locate a "Run" only Hot circuit to tap the wire into. (IE door jams where the wires are under the dash, find the electric window hot wire) This wire does not require much of a load at all so the amperage draw will be very small.
What this does is only allows the FASS to run only when the Key is turned to the "RUN" position. This fuse does not have power at "ACC" or "Start". The 2 trucks we have tried it on, it cleared the hard starts up immediately with no codes set.
Another option at least..........
This is only for the new harnesses with the Relay and Red/Green wire to the BATT.
Find the red wire in the FASS harness that goes from the Relay to the Stock Engine harness. What you want to do is cut this wire where (IF you have too) can splice it back together. This is the sensor wire for the relay and turns the FASS on.
Now solder or butt-splice (Whatever you prefer...just make it solid) a length of wire to the end that runs to the relay. You will need to run this into the cab and to the Fuse box. you will need to locate your Electric window fuse. Get a fuse tap and tap into the fuse. For those of you that don’t like taping into the fuse box, just locate a "Run" only Hot circuit to tap the wire into. (IE door jams where the wires are under the dash, find the electric window hot wire) This wire does not require much of a load at all so the amperage draw will be very small.
What this does is only allows the FASS to run only when the Key is turned to the "RUN" position. This fuse does not have power at "ACC" or "Start". The 2 trucks we have tried it on, it cleared the hard starts up immediately with no codes set.
Another option at least..........
05-05-2006, 08:19 AM
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so if I understand this correctly, the problem is occuring because the FASS is running while the truck is cranking? (not blaming the FASS, I understand about the cracked vp44 diaphragm...)
05-05-2006, 08:36 AM
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It seems to me that the easiest thing to do would be to have the FASS wired off a relay powered by a Hobbs switch hooked to oil pressure.
Thus, the minute you get any kind of oil pressure, the switch closes and your FASS fires up.
Thus, the minute you get any kind of oil pressure, the switch closes and your FASS fires up.
05-05-2006, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
It seems to me that the easiest thing to do would be to have the FASS wired off a relay powered by a Hobbs switch hooked to oil pressure.
Thus, the minute you get any kind of oil pressure, the switch closes and your FASS fires up.
Thus, the minute you get any kind of oil pressure, the switch closes and your FASS fires up.
This is the other current fix we have........AND yes.....Most that has used a Catcher/Smarty or did a Reflash at the Dealer have reported that their hard starts have dissapeared.....we have gotten feed back on that......thanks Marco......
05-05-2006, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Dan
This is the other current fix we have........AND yes.....Most that has used a Catcher/Smarty or did a Reflash at the Dealer have reported that their hard starts have dissapeared.....we have gotten feed back on that......thanks Marco......
How does the dealer reflash work? Can I just take my 2001 in for a reflash? what does it cost? am I just pathetic for posting this here rather than simply calling the dealer? should I remove the question mark key from my keyboard?
05-05-2006, 02:09 PM
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called the dealer. they could neither confirm nor deny the existence of an updated flash for an 01 
however they would be happy for me to setup an appt to have it diagnosed for only $90, and if an issue is found, that a flash would resolve then it would be applied.
however they would be happy for me to setup an appt to have it diagnosed for only $90, and if an issue is found, that a flash would resolve then it would be applied.
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05-05-2006, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by micah
so as much as I wish I could afford to buy a Smarty right now, it will have to wait.
How does the dealer reflash work? Can I just take my 2001 in for a reflash? what does it cost? am I just pathetic for posting this here rather than simply calling the dealer? should I remove the question mark key from my keyboard?
How does the dealer reflash work? Can I just take my 2001 in for a reflash? what does it cost? am I just pathetic for posting this here rather than simply calling the dealer? should I remove the question mark key from my keyboard?
This sounds like Marco Questions.......
He is the expert on this......my experience with dealers is that you need to know what you want before you go in with situations like this. They dont have the same mindset as we do when it comes to what we want for our trucks. While some service writers are great! Most dont know very much about repair....they just know what the Tech tells them and what their books say. I used to work at a Nissan delaer.......it was fun....let me tell you!
05-05-2006, 05:32 PM
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If you can borrow a Smarty, you do not even need to buy one.
You just need to update your ECM with it and then go back to stock.
The "stock" software that Smarty leaves in the ECM is the latest and "greatest" flash from DC. Voilà, hard starting = Bye Bye. In addition you'll have the cold high idle enabled...
The dealer instead will need to hook up the DRB and determine what revision is in your ECM and then flash it with the latest and greatest. That, if they know what to do...
You just need to update your ECM with it and then go back to stock.
The "stock" software that Smarty leaves in the ECM is the latest and "greatest" flash from DC. Voilà, hard starting = Bye Bye. In addition you'll have the cold high idle enabled...
The dealer instead will need to hook up the DRB and determine what revision is in your ECM and then flash it with the latest and greatest. That, if they know what to do...
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