Fluidamper install now no charge.
09-16-2014, 01:00 PM
#16
Registered User
I think you have checked most of the main reasons the system does not charge. I'm leaning towards possibly a bad splice in the CPS wiring. I installed a fluidampr on my 93 motor, and did not need to use the wiring extensions.
Just thinking about your issue and I recall reading about the wiring connection plug that is in the kit, that they are not very good, and the connections are questionable?
How did you extend the wires?
09-16-2014, 01:54 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ahhh I see. If it was charging before you did the installation, then I would think it is something you did during/after the install.
I think you have checked most of the main reasons the system does not charge. I'm leaning towards possibly a bad splice in the CPS wiring. I installed a fluidampr on my 93 motor, and did not need to use the wiring extensions.
Just thinking about your issue and I recall reading about the wiring connection plug that is in the kit, that they are not very good, and the connections are questionable?
How did you extend the wires?
I think you have checked most of the main reasons the system does not charge. I'm leaning towards possibly a bad splice in the CPS wiring. I installed a fluidampr on my 93 motor, and did not need to use the wiring extensions.
Just thinking about your issue and I recall reading about the wiring connection plug that is in the kit, that they are not very good, and the connections are questionable?
How did you extend the wires?
the battery was leaking badly and was installed in '02.
09-16-2014, 03:23 PM
#18
Registered User
Well I would advise putting in proper crimped, and soldered connections in the wiring. I know it can be a PITA...but this would eliminate the wiring as a potential issue.
09-16-2014, 04:06 PM
#19
Registered User
Pardon my ignorance ---- what is a "fluidamper" and what does it do ??
Now, with that behind us, recently, I did a bit of work that required me removing the top-of-dash 3-gauge "pod" , in order to get at what I was working on.
When it came time to put everything back together, I decided installing a few pig-tail plugs would make life easier the next time I had to mess with it.
With all my nice pig-tails crimped and soldered in place, I plugged everything together and went about my business.
The thing is though, I was not out after dark in that truck for a week or so; actually, it was sitting parked behind the guy's house whose 379 Peterbilt I was gone in for a week or so.
To make a long story short, I came in during the wee hours of the night, transferred all my belongings back into my truck, flipped ON my instrument-lights, and lit up the whole neighborhood.
I have a BRIGHT light indicator LED installed in that gauge pod.
When I finally found the problem, the brand-new molded-plastic pig-tail that I had used had a tiny strand of copper short-circuiting the plug --- defective from the factory.
From that day forth, I will always double-check any such components for such abnormalities.
Your problem may be something similar.
Now, with that behind us, recently, I did a bit of work that required me removing the top-of-dash 3-gauge "pod" , in order to get at what I was working on.
When it came time to put everything back together, I decided installing a few pig-tail plugs would make life easier the next time I had to mess with it.
With all my nice pig-tails crimped and soldered in place, I plugged everything together and went about my business.
The thing is though, I was not out after dark in that truck for a week or so; actually, it was sitting parked behind the guy's house whose 379 Peterbilt I was gone in for a week or so.
To make a long story short, I came in during the wee hours of the night, transferred all my belongings back into my truck, flipped ON my instrument-lights, and lit up the whole neighborhood.
I have a BRIGHT light indicator LED installed in that gauge pod.
When I finally found the problem, the brand-new molded-plastic pig-tail that I had used had a tiny strand of copper short-circuiting the plug --- defective from the factory.
From that day forth, I will always double-check any such components for such abnormalities.
Your problem may be something similar.
09-16-2014, 04:52 PM
#20
Registered User
My OEM vs the new Fliudampr when I installed them....
09-16-2014, 06:15 PM
#21
Registered User
And I guess those #12 boot-prints are for size-reference ...
Thanks for enlightening me; so that works much like a Centramatic wheel balancer.
That thing looks purely mechanical; I am guessing the electrical problems are a 1992/93 thing.
Thanks for enlightening me; so that works much like a Centramatic wheel balancer.
That thing looks purely mechanical; I am guessing the electrical problems are a 1992/93 thing.
09-16-2014, 06:30 PM
#22
Registered User
Yes work on the same basic principle as the Centramatics.
And yes it has nothing to do with the electronic control of the Alternator on 92/93 trucks.
09-16-2014, 09:15 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pardon my ignorance ---- what is a "fluidamper" and what does it do ??
Now, with that behind us, recently, I did a bit of work that required me removing the top-of-dash 3-gauge "pod" , in order to get at what I was working on.
When it came time to put everything back together, I decided installing a few pig-tail plugs would make life easier the next time I had to mess with it.
With all my nice pig-tails crimped and soldered in place, I plugged everything together and went about my business.
The thing is though, I was not out after dark in that truck for a week or so; actually, it was sitting parked behind the guy's house whose 379 Peterbilt I was gone in for a week or so.
To make a long story short, I came in during the wee hours of the night, transferred all my belongings back into my truck, flipped ON my instrument-lights, and lit up the whole neighborhood.
I have a BRIGHT light indicator LED installed in that gauge pod.
When I finally found the problem, the brand-new molded-plastic pig-tail that I had used had a tiny strand of copper short-circuiting the plug --- defective from the factory.
From that day forth, I will always double-check any such components for such abnormalities.
Your problem may be something similar.
Now, with that behind us, recently, I did a bit of work that required me removing the top-of-dash 3-gauge "pod" , in order to get at what I was working on.
When it came time to put everything back together, I decided installing a few pig-tail plugs would make life easier the next time I had to mess with it.
With all my nice pig-tails crimped and soldered in place, I plugged everything together and went about my business.
The thing is though, I was not out after dark in that truck for a week or so; actually, it was sitting parked behind the guy's house whose 379 Peterbilt I was gone in for a week or so.
To make a long story short, I came in during the wee hours of the night, transferred all my belongings back into my truck, flipped ON my instrument-lights, and lit up the whole neighborhood.
I have a BRIGHT light indicator LED installed in that gauge pod.
When I finally found the problem, the brand-new molded-plastic pig-tail that I had used had a tiny strand of copper short-circuiting the plug --- defective from the factory.
From that day forth, I will always double-check any such components for such abnormalities.
Your problem may be something similar.
09-17-2014, 07:43 AM
#24
Administrator
Isn't finding shoes a wonderful thing?
I'm 14 EEE, living in a rural area, I have had to start ordering them from the Internet since the last local shoe store closed...........
On the other hand, it has opened up a world of new possibilities, especially in USA made shoes.
I'm 14 EEE, living in a rural area, I have had to start ordering them from the Internet since the last local shoe store closed...........
On the other hand, it has opened up a world of new possibilities, especially in USA made shoes.
09-17-2014, 12:51 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
i very carefully re spliced the cps and checked the gap. i removed the new alt and brought it back for a bench test.. just in case.. passed. all new relays. still at 12.4v installed an external VR just as it is installed on my truck... still no charge. im lost. are there any fusible links for the alt?
09-17-2014, 05:00 PM
#26
Administrator
Ok, well try the key trick and see if you are getting any codes ( 41? 47? ) Anyway, with it hooked back up to PCM control, quickly ground the green field wire ( one that runs to the PCM ) and see if she doesn't go full charge. If it does, there is an issue either between the alt and the PCM or the PCM is toast. If it doesn't go full charge, then you might be still fighting a CPS issue. IIRC, PCM doesn't bring in ASD relay, which provides the 12V for the fields.
Thread from when I was fighting my Ramcharger......
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...arger+charging
Thread from when I was fighting my Ramcharger......
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...arger+charging
09-17-2014, 06:36 PM
#27
Registered User
There is one big fuse-link in the main charge wire, the fuse-link is usually green, located on that "duck-foot" connector where all the fuse-links converge, left fender-well, sort of under the hood-hinge; BUT, if that link is completely open, you would have no continuity from battery to alternator.
It can be blown and still have a tiny strand making connection; thus, it would show continuity, but not be able to carry the load.
It can be blown and still have a tiny strand making connection; thus, it would show continuity, but not be able to carry the load.
09-18-2014, 08:35 AM
#28
Registered User
The old Mopar charging systems are pretty simple. Check for voltage at the big wire on the alternator. It should be battery voltage. The blue field wire is ignition feed, should be 12 volts key on, you may need the engine running for this. The green field wire is the ground that goes to the PCM. Grounding this wire will full field the alternator if you have 12 volts at the blue wire. It should charge then regardless of whether the CPS or PCM is any good.
I suspect though that since you said the A/C is also blowing warm you may have a CPS failure but check the voltages first and make sure the alternator is capable of putting out before you go looking any further.
I suspect though that since you said the A/C is also blowing warm you may have a CPS failure but check the voltages first and make sure the alternator is capable of putting out before you go looking any further.
