The motor Build thread.
#78
Registered User
Regardless, I hope you get her running again soon, it has to be frustrating.
#79
Registered User
Thread Starter
The pistons are the 47cc marine pistons.
A storm block is the newer style 12v and 24v block that is found in the 97 and newer trucks. They have 2 turbo drains, a different front cam hashing, 12mm mains and some other different things about them. They're a better block overall. AFAIK they have a higher nickel content in the cast and the cast is thicker.
Also, Alec. I hear ya on the rust proofing but everything was already painted and cleaned up really nice last winter so it should be good to go as far as that goes. The block still has a nice thick coat of paint on it too. I'll be throwing some paint on it to cover up any exposed metal, it just won't look as nice as it has in the past is all. I won't have as many nice blue highlights and stuff. Most stuff will just be blasted flat black. As far as rust proofing it should still be fine.
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A storm block is the newer style 12v and 24v block that is found in the 97 and newer trucks. They have 2 turbo drains, a different front cam hashing, 12mm mains and some other different things about them. They're a better block overall. AFAIK they have a higher nickel content in the cast and the cast is thicker.
Also, Alec. I hear ya on the rust proofing but everything was already painted and cleaned up really nice last winter so it should be good to go as far as that goes. The block still has a nice thick coat of paint on it too. I'll be throwing some paint on it to cover up any exposed metal, it just won't look as nice as it has in the past is all. I won't have as many nice blue highlights and stuff. Most stuff will just be blasted flat black. As far as rust proofing it should still be fine.
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#81
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thursday nights progress.
And then last night I finished it up! Today it will be going in the truck. So that's exciting.
First order of business last night was checking centreline and all that. Cam is degreed in at 98* intake centreline. Piston protrusion was 0.026" but I'll be running a 0.010" over head gasket so that's fine. I didn't check the valve face depth but that wouldn't have changed since last time. It was specifically cut by ctech to be 0.055". I forgot to turn the motor over to TDC exhaust for the valve to piston clearance :spank: I did it at true TDC and got 0.097". All other clearances are within spec so I'm not worried.
As an aside peak lift on the #1 intake valve with this cam and 0.015" valve lash (I set it loose until I break the motor in and then reset it) is 0.502" lift. Good stuff.
It honestly came together so quickly I feel like I forgot something... :stirpot:
And then last night I finished it up! Today it will be going in the truck. So that's exciting.
First order of business last night was checking centreline and all that. Cam is degreed in at 98* intake centreline. Piston protrusion was 0.026" but I'll be running a 0.010" over head gasket so that's fine. I didn't check the valve face depth but that wouldn't have changed since last time. It was specifically cut by ctech to be 0.055". I forgot to turn the motor over to TDC exhaust for the valve to piston clearance :spank: I did it at true TDC and got 0.097". All other clearances are within spec so I'm not worried.
As an aside peak lift on the #1 intake valve with this cam and 0.015" valve lash (I set it loose until I break the motor in and then reset it) is 0.502" lift. Good stuff.
It honestly came together so quickly I feel like I forgot something... :stirpot:
#84
Registered User
I approve of the choice, but why stick with the VE when you clearly have the mods to make use of a bombed P-Pump? Don't get me wrong, I really like the dynamic timing on the VE and would rather make less but more flexible/civilized power.
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
Currently I just want to see how much power I can squeeze out of the VE. I'll put it on the rollers in a month or 2 when I'm back from working out of town (I leave saturday for 4 weeks). I'll eventually ppump the motor but not for a year or 2. When I ppump it I also want to put compounds on at the same time.
That and I can't afford a transmission. I actually have everything for a ppump conversion in my garage including a good 180hp pump but I don't trust myself with my right foot and I know I'd make more than enough to nuke the transmission if I swap it over.
What do you mean tap the water jacket? I don't know what you're talking about so I'm going with a no.
I did consider doing something to remedy the high coolant pressure at the back of the block but I didn't. I don't spin the rpms to really be concerned with it and the freeze plug that usually blows out is half covered by the adapter plate so I couldn't just run the billet rear plug that has pipe threads tapped into it for a bypass. As for the water jacket thing you mentioned, I have not heard about that before.
Also, I got the motor in the truck today. Just gotta put the rad, intercooler and stuff back on and stuff, fill all fluids and fire it up. I'll do that tomorrow.
That and I can't afford a transmission. I actually have everything for a ppump conversion in my garage including a good 180hp pump but I don't trust myself with my right foot and I know I'd make more than enough to nuke the transmission if I swap it over.
What do you mean tap the water jacket? I don't know what you're talking about so I'm going with a no.
I did consider doing something to remedy the high coolant pressure at the back of the block but I didn't. I don't spin the rpms to really be concerned with it and the freeze plug that usually blows out is half covered by the adapter plate so I couldn't just run the billet rear plug that has pipe threads tapped into it for a bypass. As for the water jacket thing you mentioned, I have not heard about that before.
Also, I got the motor in the truck today. Just gotta put the rad, intercooler and stuff back on and stuff, fill all fluids and fire it up. I'll do that tomorrow.
#86
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well went to break the motor in last night and the oil pump didn't grab oil. It ran for maybe 30 seconds and I shut it down right away when I wasn't seeing any oil pressure but that's all it took to lock it solid.
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#88
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Morgan,UT
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Sorry to hear that man, something I do on a build is fill the engine with all but 2 quarts and then pull the bypass regulator out the oil cooler. The get a small funnel and fill up the oil cooler witch goes straight to the oil pump. And you are primed for go..
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah what I've done has never been a problem before. It's probably going to sit until at least mid October before I even look at it. I leave Saturday for work out of town so...
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