woj64

Looking for suggestions; Here's the problem, even though my truck sat a lot the last few years (company vehicle used their fuel not mine as much as possible)
I live in CT where they use the very effective but vehicle destroying magnesium chloride without the available rust inhibitors, so even with light use (still<50k) anything not well painted is rusting some to the point of flaking, like the drive shaft and other running gear components. Looking for product suggestions I know its too late for anything like ziebart, don't really want to do the fluid film type stuff cause I work on it myself and don't feel like coming away with goo all over everything (might use that inside door panels etc.). The research I've done suggests that the converters are good if you can keep it only on rusty parts, seeing as this is a daily driver now I can't take it apart to insure that. so that leaves me with a tedious project of cleaning it up the best I can covering/sealing it with something and monitoring it regularly, kind of want to keep the truck as long as possible(till the rapture as my wife says). My thoughts are quick and easy clean it up-rusty metal primer and rustoleum type paint (its underneath looks aren't important so runs etc from heavy coating isn't a concern), Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator?, POR-15....like to hear thoughts and experiences, Thanks

ramruff

I use fluid film underneath all our vehicles (we have 7 on the road) here in Ohio, & it's not really that bad to work on stuff. It stops the rust & that's what you want.

Got the kit for $99 on ebay. 2 gallons & the gun to install it.

Just my opinion...............

NJTman

Well, you want experiences ?

Do not waste your time with rustoleum rusty metal primer and topcoat, otherwise, in 3 years you'll be doing it all over again like I am.

Here is the entire story with pix

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t295193.html

End result ? some type of epoxy with a topcoat over it where it's exposed to sunlight.

Jona Gold

I just replaced my rear 2-piece drive-shaft with the mopar aluminum one-piece. That handled that. Otherwise, I'm in the process of coating my entire frame, and everything else rusty with POR-15. I used to be into International Scouts- and the guys in that club swore by it. I've only done about 25% of the truck, starting at the rear, but wow is this stuff hard once dry. I'm confident it'll last a long time.

If you go this route, like all painted products, preparation is key. Make sure you get the Marine Clean degreaser and use it. Then buy the Metal Prep and use it. Then paint on the POR 15- then top coat it. I'm using a gloss black tractor implement paint from my local fleet/farm/ranch supply store for the top coat, and painting the top coat while it's still tacky to the touch (sticky, but no color transfer to your skin).

I'm using an implement paint that I painted my dock with 5 years ago (no POR 15 underneath) and my dock still hasn't rusted through the gloss even with 5 summers in the water, and 5 winters on the shore.

woj64

Thanks for the replies, ramruff I may still consider it (certainly interior body panels, but i still want to clean up and cover the existing heavy rust. NJTman I kind of figured that would be the case if I went that route, I figure with the way this magchloride eats stuff its going to be an ongoing project cause your never going to get it all, and then there's wear and tear. Jona any guesses on quantity of the POR 15 and suggestions regarding application (pints, quarts, gallons, brush/spray?) because from what I understand once you open a can you're committed to using it, unless you like throwing away product(=money) due to it hardening in the can once you open it. If I'm going that route I may as well just do the entire underside of the truck (frame running gear body).

Jona Gold

I bought a quart of POR-15. So far I haven't even used half of it- and I just finished the front section last night. I did the entire front end, axle, frame, engine mounts/cross member-everything underneath to the cab.

As for use it or lose it- I've been working on mine for almost a month. I pour a bit out into a plastic container to work from- then I close the POR-15 quart, wrap it in clear plastic wrap, and put it in the beverage fridge in my basement. I do the same with the plastic container if I quit before I finish it. I left about an 1/8th inch of POR-15 in my work container in the fridge for 2 full weeks between sessions, and it was fine. I did swirl the containers a bit once a week though- to make sure they weren't hardening up. I bought the quart of POR-15 back in February- didn't get around to starting until late July (sitting un-opened doesn't appear to be an issue).

The quart will definitely do the entire frame and suspension components, but I doubt it would cover the underside of the body and bed as well. I think you'd need two quarts for that. Wear some good protective clothing, including a face mask and protective eye-wear, it doesn't come off with paint thinner or mineral spirits. I am "brushing" it on with the disposable sponge brushes you can get a dollar store. It destroys them fast.

I took my project a little further too- I bought a new rear bumper and painted it to match, and a new front bumper cover (sport/laramie style). I coated the inside of the rear bumper with 3M rock guard, and painted my entire chrome front bumper with the same stuff (the sport bumper cover fits over top the factory chrome bumper). I POR-15'd and implement painted all bumper brackets, and replaced every bolt I could with stainless steel hardware. The proprietary welded bolt brackets I bought new and coated in POR-15/implement paint. They don't make PAN head carriage bolts in stainless steel- so I simply ground the heads of regular carriage bolts flat. It discolored the stainless, but shouldn't have been hot enough to kill it's corrosion resistance. Though I probably contaminated the head with corrosives from the grinder- I'm not terribly worried about the heads though- it's the threads and nuts I want to keep free of corrosion.

My wife is starting to question my sanity.

Grit Dog

IMO just get a few cans of black spray paint and go to town on the undercarriage. Wait til it's pretty clean like after driving thru a big rainstorm or pressure wash first. Maybe do some scraping where it's flaking.
It'll last a few years, only cost about $20 and an hour of your time.

BigIron70

Try Rust Bullet works great, I used on my boat trailer and never had rust return again.

Jona Gold

Just in case anybody wanted to know-

2+ months now of my POR 15 can being opened and it is still fluid- no solidifying at all. I am keeping it in a cold fridge for storage per what I had read online. From everything I had read, it should still be solid by now but it isn't.