pacmule

AC was working this morning on way to work. when i left, nothing but hot air. stopped at my dads and checked for fuse or whatnot. nothing obvious. never any issues before, now the compressor never comes on. do not have shop manual for my new truck (to me). Its an '06, bottom of signature

any suggestions on which circuit to check first and how would really help me out. going to change and start working on it now. will check back

thanks

pacmule

ok, tried to troubleshoot, did not go well, couldn't get the plug apart at back of compressor to check for power. So I said screw it and pulled in the garage, when i started it the engine light stayed on now I'm getting POed, spin tires in the gravel get it in garage, double check fuse box to make sure everything is ok, go to check wires below and there is reddish oily fluid dripping out between the compressor and the motor. I assume that is oil from the compressor.

missing my '98 right now. had only one AC problem with it, and it turned out to be broken wires I caused when tilting motor for tranny removal (new clutch) think that was around 175K, AC still good at 255K

BigIron70

Sure it's not coolant from the water pump leaking? Compressor oil is clear unless you had dye added. 2006 most common problem with A/C not blowing cold would be compressor clutch. Disconnect connector, check power and ground at compressor. Check for any wires to compressor shorting out by compressor. Check clutch resistance should be 5.9L/6.7L Diesel Engines 3.0 - 4.0 ohms There is a release lock red in color that needs to be slid over first then squeeze release and pull connector apart.



CLUTCH-A/C COMPRESSOR - BLACK 2 WAY CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION
1 C3 18DB/YL (DIESEL) A/C CLUTCH CONTROL OUTPUT

2 Z816 18BK (DIESEL) GROUND

pacmule

thanks BigIron70, a friend helped me with it yesterday and we determined it was an electrical problem. I have not seen any obvious wire breaks, will check out that plug tommorrow and see what I find

pacmule

pacmule

alright, got to test truck. pulled plug apart at back of compressor. used hot lead from battery and confirmed ground. used ground lead from battery and turned key on and A/C switch on (did not start truck because its hot outside and I was inside my insulated garage) got 10.5v of juice, switched ground lead to the plug and got same reading. battery tested 12.6v. Is 10.5 normal or ok with truck not running?

put leads on compressor side of plug to read resistance, was getting wierd, varying readings. set to higher level and reads 645 steadily with my digital reader and over 20 with analog reader. not sure if I did this right but read instructions multiple times and that was what I got.


So, I am guessing that power supply is OK. but clutch is bad, can I change the clutch without replacing the whole compressor?

pacmule

well after doing a few searches here looks like I can change just the clutch if I can find one, however I am starting to think with the oil around the compressor it is probably going out also.

yarosig

Try spraying brake parts cleaner with hose into compressor clutch housing.

BigIron70

Replacement compressor comes with clutch. Need to evacuate freon first. Not a big job but follow the procedure to replace if you are doing it yourself, Gaskets do not come with compressor, I suggest you replace them also.

ASTROENG

Yes. You can replace just the clutch assembly. I just had to do mine on my 2007 5.9l. Clutch coil was open-- no circuit for electricity through coil. Luckily I have experience working on vehicle air conditioners. I could not get the clutch pulley off the compressor with it in the truck so here is step by step what I did. Sorry didn't think at time to take pics.

1. Loosen and remove belt from alternator to give enough clearance to slip belt around clutch pulley.

2. Recover refrigerant--If you do not have equipment--take it to a shop first.

3. Unbolt the four 13mm head bolts that hold compressor to bracket on engine.

4. Unfasten hose at rear of compressor=10 mm bolt. RETAIN SEAL WASHERS at hose connections.

5. Unfasten electrical connector at compressor.

6. Remove compressor and clutch from truck.

7. Using a tool to hold front pulley still, remove 10 mm bolt into shaft of compressor.

8. Using a puller, remove the front pulley friction plate.

9. Remove the snap ring holding the bearing inside the compressor drive pulley to the compressor snout. Use a puller to remove the drive pulley and bearing together.--bearing is staked into rear of pulley.

10. Unfasten wire clamp from leads. Use puller to remove coil assembly from compressor snout--no retaining ring on mine--just a tight compression fit.

11. ON mine the replacement kit came with a new friction plate, new bearing, and a new coil.

12. I replaced the bearing in my drive pulley by carefully grinding the staked areas with a dremel, and driving the bearing from the pulley. I carefully installed new bearing using a socket of approximate size to get it to settle into place. Then I staked it in three places using a small punch.

13. I installed the new coil on to the snout of the compressor by carefully tapping it into place with a hammer and piece of wood to prevent damaging coil. Use caution. Coil is fairly tight and tap it evenly into place. Re-secure wire leads with clamp and brkt.

14. I cleaned face of drive pulley with carb cleaner and a small wire brush. Had a lot of build up that I suspect was from leaking coolant.

15.I re-installed the drive pulley on the snout of the compressor. Again I used a socket of approximate size on the bearing to tap it into place. Secured it with snap ring.

16. I carefully fit the new friction plate on the splined shaft of compressor and adjusted gap to be .012-.020" using shims provided. Took about three tries to get adjusted correctly. Snug center bolt before measuring gap. After gap is set, tighten front compressor bolt. to 10-15 ft lbs.

17. Replace compressor into truck. Reconnect refrigerant hoses. I was able to re-use my sealing washers but a new set may have to be used. Tighten the 10 mm bolt after hoses are aligned and seated against seal washers. Reconnect electric connector to vehicle harness. Secure the compressor to engine bracket using 13mm head bolts. NOTE: I had to have the lower two bolts in compressor to set it into place and then start them in brkt. There are two holes in frame but due to age or engine alignment, they did not come close for aligning.

18. Re-install the drive belt-- pay attention to belt routing.

19. Evacuate and recharge system using r-134a. I lost a small amount of oil, so I added two ounces additionally to the charge.

Now my system blows cold air again, and my engine seems quieter-- may have been the old bearing-- it wasn't gone but had noticeable play and rattle before replacing.