taterfarm

yes, but the fluid could still be above its flash point under heavy load conditions or with failing system components, such as a sticking thermostat, which my truck is actually doing right now.

It seems that in the fuel gauge discussion that you agree that fuel should not be in the cab. What is different with this fluid that is also capable of being over its flash point and is being plumbed into the cab through a system that is common to have leaks? I have had a lot more coolant leak into a cab than through a fuel or oil pressure gauge.



I was thinking about one of my experiences, A few years back I was peacefully driving down the road in my newly installed bucket seats when out of no where some chick came blowing out her driveway and struck my rear tire. this swung my truck around and lined it up dead center with a telephone pole, which I proceeded to drive through. In the event the radiator was crushed into the front of the engine and coolant was blown all over everything. So had that been 100% antifreeze and the fluid hit the exhaust manifold that was at a temperature at or above 748.4*F (a reasonable round number for the temperature on the exhaust manifold while driving)then would I still have an unburnt truck to rebuild?



Also, do you feel that using distilled water would cause any issues in a cooling system?

sootnsmoke

If you like to change/drain and fill every two years like I do, I just use any conventional green coolant meeting spec 4985 (low silicate). Not all conventional green coolants meet 4985 but it will be listed in the specification fine print

Excerpts from Cummins Service Bulletin 3666132-01:

"...the B Series engine coolant recommendation is to use low-silicate antifreeze meeting ASTM D4985 specifications and to drain and replace it every 320,000 km [200,000 mi], 2 years, or 6000 hours of operation (whichever occurred first)."

enafzige

How do you get 100% antifreeze in your engine? Just curious...

MARF75

The stuff I asked about was what the parts store had, so I wanted tomake sure it was compatible. Thnx

NJTman

Thanks again for an interesting read about ethylene glycol. I never knew that EG will freeze at 10*F or -12*C.


yet pure EG works better in hot environments as seen as it has a higher boiling point of 387*F.....so for Mark, and anyone else who lives in a sweatbox, it seems to work just fine in their vehicles.... although it's still an issue of flammability (autoignition @ 801*f or a flashpoint of 260*F to 280*F depending on what ignites it and how it's stored)

Did you know EG weighs about 9.3 lbs per gallon ?

.... so "NO SMOKING"... and you'll be just fine.


Learn something new every day. Thanks guys !


BTW,


Try not to get this thread shut down by beating each other up, because it's just way too interesting to stop talking about...

enafzige

Just wonderin...

enafzige

Wow. I guess everyone is afraid to even speak now on this subject. That's a shame. :\

j_martin

We kids were ribbin' each other and Mom thought it was a fight.

enafzige

I guess everyone is still standin' with their noses in the corner poutin' then.

Part of the reason I'm asking, is the FSM on my '87 Ramcharger mentions pulling a freeze plug to drain coolant from the block before a refresh. This seemed to be quite excessive effort that wasn't really worth the risk.

Can everyone come back out and play now? You can joke/kid/tease/cut up/insult me if you wish. I'm grown up and can take it.

--Eric

sootnsmoke

Someone stole my lunch money in another thread so I ain't sayin nuttin'