My father accidentally air chiseled a small hole in my oil pan on the 92 about a half inch to the left of the drain plug. I keep getting small drips of oil overnight and the JB weld will not mix together properly if wet so its just not working. I am currently trying a marine-grade epoxy known as PC-11 but I am uneasy about calling that a proper repair. Its my only mode of transportation and I could really use any input you may have in terms of fixing this. Is there a fix or do I have to replace the oil pan? Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.

 

take it off and weld it or have it welded thats the best way

 

It's really redneck but...get a sheet metal screw with a head like large washer, run it in there and weld around the outside edge of the head. I know it works but I'll never admit how I found out...

 

I have found that if you apply a vacuum to the crankcase ( shop vack ). Start off by draining the oil after it stops dripping put the drain plug back in tilt the truck as best you can so that the oil will run away from the hole. Then while applying vacuum clean the area with Dawn detergent than rough up the area with a wire wheel that apply JB Weld. You might apply some heat to accelerate the drying but not much. This process work on a I/O unit it has been holding for five plus years last time I talked to him. Just my two cents, Mike.

 

Bubble gum works..


I would weld it.. take the pan off and weld it. This is something you don't really want to play around with

 

Order a new one or find a used one not in the rust belt. Isn't there a noise baffle on the inside of the pan? I'd think that would prevent welding it, but I could be wrong.

 

From what I understand there are 2 layers of steel with sound insulation in between. I have never taken one apart to see that for myself though.

 

Please?

 

not in the bottom there is extra sheet metal epoxied ti the sides on the inside I just had the pan off a 92 and it is easy to weld the bottom

 

Wow, I did not know they were steel, for some reason I was thinking they were cast aluminum. I know the 318's had a $1000.00 oil pan.

Is there a windage tray on the 6BT?

I was also going to say a Pullman shop vac to the crankcase, wire brush, acetone and then some HVAC epoxy.

But a proper repair would be to remove the pan and have it professionally welded.

Jim

 

I always wondered if mine was aluminum. It doesn't get that salt rust on there, but has a white powder. My brother has a 2nd gen cummins and I know those pans are steel.. his is flaking right off. Called cummins and nothing they can do.

 

And use the quick setting kind if you do it.

 

JB weld, or a commercial repair epoxy would probably work.

It would be dangerous to apply welding heat to the pan while on the truck, but if you did the vacuum trick, then thoroughly cleaned and sand around the split, spray a little non-chlorinated brake cleaner at it with the vacuum on, then solder it with acid core solder, it would be a permanent repair.

Don't use a flame for heat, but a big old fashioned 200 watt soldering iron.

 

I don't/didn't have that kind of time I needed it like yesterday so what I did in a pinch was used the Permatex fuel tank stopleak paste that hardens and believe it or not it worked. It applies wet and hardened with the few drops of oil. Welding seems better but I have never welded before and taking a MIG to my oil pan as the first lesson seemed like a pretty stupid idea. I ran the truck hard two days straight and it went through multiple heat cycles andI thoroughly flogged it and it has not leaked a drop. For the sake of argument JB weld sells a cold weld that applies on an active oil leak and dries in an hour (so the package says). If it even looks like its going to soften up or leak a drop I will use that stuff but I think the Permatex fixed it.