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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Did I get a bad thermostat?
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'93 D-250. Getrag, 3.54's, stock sticks, 1 turn on the power screw, Pdr HX35, ported 16cm, 2nd gen 4" dp 3rd gen 4"turbo back,bhaf, CoolerTubz intake horn, grid delete. '92 D-250. A518 Bone Stock. "89 D350. Work in Progress. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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My dash guage runs between the first mark and the second mark on a regular basis in all kinds of weather. My aftermarket guage moves 2 or 3 degrees at the most. It has done this for years without any over heat problems.
Bob
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1993 CTD 4X2 Horton fan, Green HP Air Filter with custom AF mount, 14cm2, PDR HX35 turbo, ATS exh. manifold, 15%+ pump with DennyT Stage II Pin 3200 GSK, DD3+ injectors, BD exhaust brake, 4 in Rip Rook exhaust, NV4500HD trans SB clutch and gauges. 394/888 #2 - 441/889 W/M. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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You may still have some air trapped in the system.
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91.5 W250 4X4 5spd 3.07s HTB2 62/14 DE 4" exhaust M&H M2 and timing device BHAF DAP 7X.010 tuned pump pre/post EGTs 92 W250 4X4 3.54 Xcab HD auto modded H1C turned fuel pin |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Mine never warms up at all
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#5 |
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Registered User
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My 92 is the same way, cold blooded Dodge.
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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Derek B. 91.5 W250, getrag, DD org. valair, HE351CW, PS IC, C-tubz, Alcans, Bilsteins, GV OD, airbags, DennyT1, pump turned up. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Well mine never even gets to the cold mark I think my thermo is stuck open or some crap and it makes it so the tranny won't shift into overdrive
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Dave. The Blue Killer. 92, D250 A518 Blue and gray KDP not killed yet 336,000 K's 93, W250 Getrag Burgundy and gold 300,000 K's Stock for now 92, W250 A518 Heartless parts donor rusted a little bit haha Learned the hard way always get the vehicle your buying inspected before buying it. "if it rides like a tractor its likely as strong as one, if it rides like a car.......well its as tough as a car" From Lucas1 |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Probably right, mine does warm up quicker than it used to now.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I think it might just be the stat. It didn't act like that at first but I don't overheat either. I ran it pretty hard today through some decent hills pulling my trailer and the temp stayed steady in 85f weather. I may try a napa thermostat which is what it had before. I don't want to risk it getting stuck closed or something.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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maybe your heater core is flush, mine was on my silverado and it was constantly overheating even with a fail safe thermostat. better go get it flushed...
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1993 W250 CTD ext cab all stock, 265/75/16 cooper discoverer ATP's on pro comp wheels Sold:2003 Dodge Ram 2500 HD 5.9L 4x4 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Boil the tstat and use a temperature gauge. You can watch it open when it's suppose to hit the certain temperature. If it's not then it's bad.
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#12 |
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Pod Boy (on hiatus)
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I had an aftermarket stat in mine and it did all kinds of stuff. Mostly take forever to warm up and constantly open and close once it was warm. This is with a new radiator, new heater core, new hoses and a flushed block. I went and got a new cummins one and it did the same thing to a lesser extent. Still opened and closed all the time but took 2-3 times longer to cycle. I cleaned up my factory one which was in really good shape ( I only replaced it because I had the system open and as preventive maintenance) and put it back in and it runs just like it always did. Warms up faster and temp stays steady. I really think the best stat is an original one.
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93 Dodge D250 3.54, 4 stans downpipe to custom narrowed 6 inch mitres, custom 12mm VE by Giles, tach ,boost, pyro, fuel pressure, 68lpm ddp sticks, Garret stage 3 ball bearing turbo, airdog 150 with hellman sump, G56 with Gear Vendor, 3250 SBC clutch, helix 2 camshaft, fluid dampr, Amsoil filter, dual redtops, new paint. Uncorrected #'s 445 hp 925 tq 2000 Golf TDI 90 hp of pure ve powered fury that get 50 mpg!- smashed by red light runner |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
![]() I just went through all this as well. New Cummins T-stat, gasser T-stat, gasser T-stat with small hole, Cummins T-stat with jiggle pin(s) removed, and eventually cleaned my original and installed. Actually after the cleaning and testing on the stove in a pot of water it now functions even better then before.
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1984 Dodge Crewcab, D350, 1 Ton SRW, long box, 89 CTD, stock with 283K Kilometers, 366 spring, 1/8 timing bump, Fluidamper, Isspro Tach/Boost and Pyro Gauges, KDP killed, no I/C, piston lift pump, 2nd gen fuel heater, 3" exhaust, 96 NV4500 5spd with filter kit, Dana 60 with open 3.54's. |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Registered User
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T-stats fail.
The OP stat is sticky, and opens late, then all at once, then settles down to normal operation. It's failing and eventually will stick shut. This same symptom is also seen if a stat is installed the wrong way, but it would occur right away. Usually when a t-stat is subject to overheat, it'll fail stuck open, and the engine runs cold unless it's driven hard. If a stat sticks shut, you boil over soonly. Many other things also affect the engine temperature, from radiator condition to engine tune. And yes, they're a mechanical device and eventually wear out.
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93 D350 LE extended cab. Set up to pull recreation double. To fish or not to fish? What a stupid question. |
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