DIY Rear Brakes, 04.5 3500 Dually
09-16-2011, 06:53 AM
#31
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One silly little perplexing detail: I see your axle has a couple of spacers between the bottom (heaviest) leaf and the axle spring perch. Must be a 4X4, my 2WD doesn't have them. Makes getting the upper caliper floater bolts out a major pain-----you have to loosen the U-bolts. Nice goin', Daimler-Chrysler!
11-10-2011, 05:15 PM
#32
A few suggestions..
Replace/re-install the bearings with a NEW nut and the balance of the hardware..
DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD HARDWARE that tighten the bearing pack.
DO NOT have any slack in the bearings. ANY play is not good.
Cryo'd rotors and Yellow Stuff(TM) Pads are well worth the added expense if you are planning on keeping your truck for awhile.
Use a good Synthetic in the diff (80W-140) if you are heavy hauling.
I like AmsOil.
Service the diff every 30-40K if you are not heavy and every 25-30K if you are.
Dana FACT: the Series 80 has a 150K life if serviced using their recommended intervals. Oil is cheap compared to rebuilding.
DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD HARDWARE that tighten the bearing pack.
DO NOT have any slack in the bearings. ANY play is not good.
Cryo'd rotors and Yellow Stuff(TM) Pads are well worth the added expense if you are planning on keeping your truck for awhile.
Use a good Synthetic in the diff (80W-140) if you are heavy hauling.
I like AmsOil.
Service the diff every 30-40K if you are not heavy and every 25-30K if you are.
Dana FACT: the Series 80 has a 150K life if serviced using their recommended intervals. Oil is cheap compared to rebuilding.
06-10-2012, 01:29 PM
#33
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Bought it new. And after reconfiguring the leaves I have cured the clearance problem.
10-25-2012, 10:56 PM
#36
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I also just did my rear brakes on my 03 dually. Replaced seals, rotors, pads, calipers. 1 caliper was seized, chewed up rotor. Does anybody have link/pictures of front brakes on a 4x4 dually?
05-15-2014, 05:53 PM
#38
This is what you should see now. Unlike some older models where you have to knock the wheel studs out to separate the rotor from the hub so you can turn or replace the rotors, this truck is different. You have to remove these bolts instead, step away from the wheel studs!
This photo is looking from the back of the rotor or the side nearest the truck toward the hub. A deep-well socket and 1/2" impact will spin these right out. They also have a chemical thread locker on them. Don't forget your PPE before you fire up that impact gun.
This photo is looking from the back of the rotor or the side nearest the truck toward the hub. A deep-well socket and 1/2" impact will spin these right out. They also have a chemical thread locker on them. Don't forget your PPE before you fire up that impact gun.Good write up!
02-20-2015, 12:10 AM
#41
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Great write-up really helped a lot only issues I had was that my retaining nut was an actual nut and I had to go buy a special socket for It. Thanks again you did a great job.
06-17-2016, 12:51 PM
#45
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Very helpful for me today. Rear rotors, axle seals, brake pads, and calipers going on today. 132,xxx miles I am changing everything. I have to tow tomorrow.
