Debeaming an engine rod is removing the casting flashing off the rod. Usually there is flashing material from the foundry. Its also blending the corners and removing metal from the balancing pads on top and from the bottom of the rod. I wish I had a picture to show you. I have a book at home with decent pictures for a 350 engine. How much power you want and how high you plan to rev the engine up?

On the crank you must chamfer the oiling areas, and blend the radius on where the machine shop does the machining. Just ask the machine shop, they should now how to do that. I would go over the crank and remove all the flashing off the crank. Then I would send the engine out to be balanced. Take everything like your harmonic balancer, rods, rings, pistons, rod bolts. There is a holding jig that you can weigh the rod so the small end and the heavy end weighs the same.

You can do her right up or just put it back stock, which would work as well. I just like doing the small little stuff. My last engine (440 mopar) I even put some teflon anti-slip coatings on the lift valley, so you can get the oil back into the oil pan a little faster.

A good guy to help would be Luke as he is a heavy duty mechanic, he can do that engine in his sleep. I still haven't done a 5.9L, yet, but I've built a few other non diesel engines. I just like see and checking everything prior to assembly. I think Moores is the only shop in town that has a decking plate for boring the 5.9L engine. Some guys say that the block is too stiff and doesn't need it but I rather use it. It puts the same stress back into the block as if you have the head on. Anyways I could go on.

 

well im officially starting to spend more then i should, just ordered a cam, injector tips, head studs and a gauge set. Hopefully early-mid next week I get my crank, block and rods back. Gunna check em over and shave off what i can. Trying to figure out if i want to actually make a little rig to weigh rod ends. Has anyone balanced rods before? I want to know were to get a good enough scale and what set up works. etc etc.

 

Glad to hear you are making progress Kevin.

While the Cummins rods are huge & weigh a ton, are you going to spin it faster than 3500rpm?

If not, is it worth getting the rods balanced & blueprinted?

What cam are you planning to go with?

Also don't forget the supporting parts. Valve springs, lift pump, air intake, exhaust, etc, etc..
While auto trans parts are pricey, it would be so easy to slip in a nice flex plate & torque converter in there while the engine is out.

If your cam is ok, I would recommend to put in trans parts rather than an aftermarket cam.
IMO, an aftermarket cam has minimal benefits for a CR.
Kevin Morken would be better qualified to comment on CR cams.


Ask John in Fort St. John how these things can get out of control!!

...Joe

 

I've heard the cam can make the biggest change in a cr 5.9. But who knows, its only 450 bucks so i figure ill try it out. I plan on rebuilding the trans with valve body, torque, flex plate and better clutches when funds allow. I cant really afford the upgrades i bought already so Im sticking with the internal stuff thats harder to do with the motor in. Yes i realize the injectors arent hard to change. I just needed an excuse.
next up is set of heavy duty bull bars from aliarc, follwed likely by a boost fooler/smarty. Then trans and exhaust manifold. plus a whole bunch of little stuff inbetwen.

oh, its a colt/hamilton stage 2 cam. doesnt require springs and mine all tested ok.

 

Is that his Big Stick cam? I have always been a proponent of F1 stuff, but I have thought about going to a Colt cam since they are Canadian and Harry seems to deal with them.

 

Geoff (owner of Colt) is good people, I have bought a number of cams from him over the years, is also a big supporter of local drag racing. He spends lots of his weekends volunteering, at tracks, in the tower, or organizing.

 

no the big stick is the stage 3 and valve springs are recommended. I was also told the stage 2 has more bottom end then the big stick. And seeing as i cant bring myself to rev a diesel or 3000 I have no need for a top end cam. Plus they recommend valve springs on the big stick.

 

I haven't heard much where a cam change makes it worthwhile in a mild Commonrail.

I would recommend valve springs though, even with a stock cam.
The stock CR valvesprings are really wimpy. Only 65-75lbs on the seat.

 

The front cam journal is bushed - the rest are just bored (that's why the front looks like copper).

Aftermarket camshafts are one of the best things you can do for the CR - get rid of the "in-cylinder EGR" designed into the OEM lobes.

The bottom end is good for over 1K HP, so no need to upgrade any of it; however, thermal barrier on the piston crowns and a slippery HPC on the skirts is always a good idea if you have the $$.

Balancing isn't necessary for an inline engine, but it doesn't hurt to static-balance the rods & slugs.

You can wind up a stock CR to 4K rpm no problem, but if you do it on purpose you're at the mod level of needing a FluiDampr as well - it's cheap insurance.

p.s. you want to keep seat pressure low - over the nose pressure wears the rocker shafts & levers enough as it is.

We recommend Formula One Diesel cams & springs.

 

I have a PDR towing cam in my 02 motor. I like what it has done for driviblity. Colt makes decent cams and its hard to go wrong there.

I have to find someone in town that can alignhone the cam bearing support area. I want to run a steel billet camshaft and put some bushings in

If you don't change the weights on the pistons/rods to much the stock balance isn't bad. Balancing never hurts anything. Just making everything weight the same is a big step towards smoothing out the engine. If you start taking metal off the crank, thats different, your balancing guys will have to drill the crank just to get it to balance properely.

To this day, I don't know why these engines, with that long crankshaft, and deep oil pan doesn't have any baffles, or a crank scrapper/windage tray for oil pan. At least you could put in a some baffles to limit oil flowing on the crank on those hard acceleration pulls.

So what color you gonna paint the engine?The stock black is so boring, I like the cummins red. Do some detailing under the hood. Tricked out trucks are sweet and you'll enjoy it everytime that you lift the hood.

Coated pistons look so cool. I'm buying a set for my 98 12v

 

Good info XLR8R...

I realize the front cam journal is bushed in the block but should it be copper colored? Is it a tri-metal babbit bearing like the rods & mains?


I agree that getting rid of the in-cylinder EGR effect is advantageous, but aftermarket cams don't seem to really add that much power.
Relentless Diesel has detailed before and after dyno tests for both a 24V & a CR cam swaps.

http://www.relentlessdiesel.com/foru....php?f=4&t=101

While installing an aftermarket cam while the engine is dissassembled is easy, I'm not sure the huge job of a aftermarket cam install on a running, in-chassis engine is worth it.

Given a choice of aftermarket cam versus HD auto trans parts, I would recommend trans parts.


Just my opinions, I'm certainly no expert and learning everyday....Joe

 

Joe, that front cam bearing was wiped and most of the babbit was removed. I would be doing some measuring to make sure you have the right clearances on the camshaft, as thats odd. I would make sure that all the oil passage ways are clear and the front bearing lines up with the oil passage way correctly. I had a small scratch on my front cam bearing, from removing the camshaft.

Even though your not making more power, there alot stuff under the surface that you gain. First off, is your spool-up is improved (marginally). You gain abit more turbo flow from the swap and your egt's drop (50-100 deg's). I gained more from a cam swap than my spearco intercooler. The power that you plan on adding down the road, you'll really see the beniefts of a cam swap. The stock cam is probably damaged. I had two lobes almost flat on my stock camshaft, when it came out. That was at 145k kms, now I'm at 270k kms. It just complete the package out, once you start pushing 60+psi of boost, you'll be glad that you put in the new camshaft. I rather have stiffness springs on seat, so the valves stay closed, on the wot high boost pulls. Do a test, pressure up the cylinder head to 60psi and see if you get any air passing. Then try 80psi. Add in 3000 rpms into the mix, at that speed the valves are rarely on the seats and making a seal. I would rather have a cam that has more duration (valve openning/closing ramp rate) than valve lift for a stock head. Its all about the best way to scavenging the cylinder and add in clean fresh air.

 

yuuuuup. Thats more my thinking on the cam, want to make a reliable motor that should get slightly better mileage and stay a little cooler. I dont really plan on building that much boost with this girl. Talking to billy at economy cylinder hear he was saying that hes seen alot of heads with high boost on them come in with failed guides and seals. For my daily driver/work rig i dont want to do that. Besides, if i spend that much on air and fuel, i can spend the day pulling my head back off to put bigger springs and new keepers on it anyway.

Do you guys think that taking .25mm off the crank will require it to be balanced? Im running out of time to get this thing together and after thinking about it dont plan on trimming or balancing the rods. They didnt get bored or anything so they should be fine, just the crank is all that im worried about.

Ya XLR8R i would have loved to go with formula one, Im sure they make a top notch product, but i couldnt bring myself to pay double the price for one of his cams, plus ship it al the way up here. Im sure a colt will do just fine for my tame setup.

and no i couldnt afford coated pistons, I wanted em bad, Id like to see if they'd make the rings stand up any better then these did, but it just aint in the cards.

and neither is painting my block, I wish i had the time and money for that.

should get all my parts over the next two days.

 

The reason that the guides and valves/seats are failed are more likely from high egt's. Next comes the issue from pistons. You have decent set of gauges?

 

That makes much more sense when I actually think about it. And yes I have gauges Im installing with the motor, was bone stock up until its self destruction.