limited slip
Define "not working". Won't grab so both wheels spin or feels like it locks up all the time?
First case is possibly too much LSD additive..... second is not enough!
What brand gear lube did you put in it!
Fill in signature, under "User CP" so we know year, tranny, mods and type CTD you have!
Also, location, if interested in any good service places, or knowledgable members in your area.
RJ
First case is possibly too much LSD additive..... second is not enough!

What brand gear lube did you put in it!
Fill in signature, under "User CP" so we know year, tranny, mods and type CTD you have!
Also, location, if interested in any good service places, or knowledgable members in your area.
RJ
If you do a search, there is a lot of reading on this subject. If you run sythetic, the Royal Purple 85W-140 seems to work well for many mebers. It needs no additives. Many other brands wil cause your LS to quit the LS function because they are too slick. The LS additive adds more slick, so you normaly will not need that, unless your truck hops around corners.
ok thanks guys and it worked when i first got the truck wich was about 11 months ago but i changed it and havent had it since i did put some additive in when i changed it that i got from napa and i will try the royal purple 85w-140 can u get that from napa or just search around?
Trending Topics
I still didn't see what "not working" means here. To check LS operation you need to lift the rear axle off the ground and measure torque required to turn rear wheels, I think the spec is 85 lbs. Basically, LS does not allow the wheels to turn the opposite directions with the truck's transmission in Park or in gear if manual, and you can force the wheel to turn but it takes force, which is the spec defining if the LS clutches are working.
I still didn't see what "not working" means here. To check LS operation you need to lift the rear axle off the ground and measure torque required to turn rear wheels, I think the spec is 85 lbs. Basically, LS does not allow the wheels to turn the opposite directions with the truck's transmission in Park or in gear if manual, and you can force the wheel to turn but it takes force, which is the spec defining if the LS clutches are working.
I have tested it often with one wheel on wet grass or loose gravel, and the other on dry pavement.
I get about 1/3 to 1/2 rotation of slip before the 'weak' wheel locks up and grabs. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a street vehicle.
Just my experience.

RJ
You should have the Dana 70 Power Lok differential... like mine. I actually think it is a pretty good unit.
I have tested it often with one wheel on wet grass or loose gravel, and the other on dry pavement.
I get about 1/3 to 1/2 rotation of slip before the 'weak' wheel locks up and grabs. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a street vehicle.
Just my experience.
RJ
I have tested it often with one wheel on wet grass or loose gravel, and the other on dry pavement.
I get about 1/3 to 1/2 rotation of slip before the 'weak' wheel locks up and grabs. I'm not sure what more you could ask for from a street vehicle.
Just my experience.

RJ
Factory option for 2nd gens was an open differential. On the 2nd Gen, automatic trannys, if you ordered a LSD, you got a D70 Pwr Lok!
LSD may have been included with towing package... not sure.
5 speeds, and later 6 speeds, came with Dana 80's and a Trac Lok.
Some earlier D80's may have been Pwr Lok's also. I've heard of a few but never actually seen one!
RJ
LSD may have been included with towing package... not sure.
5 speeds, and later 6 speeds, came with Dana 80's and a Trac Lok.
Some earlier D80's may have been Pwr Lok's also. I've heard of a few but never actually seen one!
RJ
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Srigs
12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
3
Nov 13, 2002 09:30 PM



whatever
