3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years Talk about the 2003 and up Dodge Ram here. PLEASE, NO ENGINE OR DRIVETRAIN DISCUSSION!.

Stock Hitch Remove?

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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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From: ADKs
Stock Hitch Remove?

Can the factory class III hitch be removed to be replaced by an aftermarket unit?
Customer service at online supplier says he does not believe it can be removed.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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From: Live Oak Texas
Yes. They are just bolted in like any other hitch.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 06:54 AM
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That's what I thought. Customer service rep is just slingin bull.
I could take the original hitch off but don't want to be without for as long as it might take to get a new one.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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They are a pain to remove, though! You have to unbolt the bed and lift it up about 4-5" if I remember right. The hitch is actually sandwiched between the frame and bed.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 09:54 AM
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I don't think getting the old one off will be a problem. Much longer and rust will take care of the removal.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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I have done just what you are asking about. It's a PITA to get the old one off by yourself as the bed has to be raised, but that's it.

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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Excellent, thanks for the Pics
Allows me to speak with authority to customer service rep who is trying to baffle me with BS
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 01:32 PM
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I installed the Putnam hitch on mine a couple years ago. The factory hitch was in the way. One of the options was to cut off the receiver portion of the hitch and then bolt in the new one under it, this allowed for installation without lifting the bed. I wish I'd had my plasma cutter then, as that was a task with grinder cut off wheels and a sawsall. There were provisions to tie the new hitch to the old hitch for more strength. I am very pleased with the finished product, especially since I got the new hitch for $125 shipped after they were discontinued.

The factory really could have done better with the hitches on these trucks, the stock one on my 2003 F-150 was stouter than the one that came on my CTD.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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I wanted the replacement hitch to be as high as possible. That and the rust on the original class 3. The Curt hitch I got was supposed to be mounted below the original did not say that in the ad when I got it.
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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When I was looking to buy my truck every 06 I looked at had a Class 4 hitch from the factory so are you sure yours is a class III?
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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I don't tow heavy a lot, but I've never had an issue with my factory hitch. I've towed at the most, 12k lbs, but had no issues. Why replace it? Am I missing something?

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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 12:41 AM
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From: Flagstaff, AZ
My factory hitch flexed a bit under load, and I'm only towing 9200# with a tongue weight of 950# with a weight distribution hitch. There is no triangulation on the factory hitch, it only contacts about 6" of the frame all the way at the back putting all of the force on that small section. I feel much safer with a properly triangulated hitch like the one in AH64ID's pics above that spreads the load over more length of the frame.
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 02:10 PM
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Rust
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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Sorry, it's a class IV
Bumper would be class III
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