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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Transmission Temp.---Whats too hott??
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99 QCLB "BUILT" GOERENDS-auto, 4in Stainless Silverline Exhaust FASS 95 fuel system, new VP44 at 103,000 miles Muddin on BFG'S 305/70/R16's Mud Terrain Rollin on new BFG'S 285 All-Terrain Also added Power Stop 500 Electronic Brake Controller Edge Juice w/Attitude Moniter and new A-pillar Project Truck SOLD 3/25/08 : ( Miss it after it left the driveway. 78 F-150 with rebuilt 460 7in of lift, sittin on 35's |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Where is your sender? Mine is in the hot line before the antifreeze cooler and I've seen 220 and no smells or discoloured fluid. I'd drop the pan asap, adjust the bands, check for material on the magnet and put in new atf+4 fluid. As of "normal temps", I'd say 160 on the highway and close to 200 in town putzing around.
Oh yea, one more thing, pray that it lasts, its ALWAYS in the back of my mind...
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2007.5, 2500HD, QC, Laramie, 4X4, SB, 68RFE, 3.73, Inferno red, Edge Insight w/pyro, MaxBrake, DSS, Firestone Ride-Rites and controller, Air-Zenith air compressor, Bilstein 5100's, EZ Change Drain plug, 250 watt oil pan heater. Toys... 2010 KTM RC8, Annitori Quickshifter, (Orange, the fastest colour) 2008 YZ450F stock 2006 SX Viper Mountain, Boss Seat, Bender can |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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hi
180 -200 is not too hot prob normal 220 + is warmer than you want for long periouds and 240 + is time to stop and cool down . i see mine 210 jerking around at low speeds ect but when convertor locks in od off and climing a 1/2 mile grade pulling a open car trailer it will drop to 140 and stay there ! i have a large aditional cooler, no fan , installed under driverside bed just in front of tire , was on truck when i got it ? not the best location so i wash it ocasionaly to keep it clean .
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98 ,12 v, auto, quad, 4x4, 3.55 g r, 313,000 , ssi bracket,06 track bar ,air lift air springs 5000lb, ranchero adj shocks,10plate,16.1*timing,kdp tabed ,urathane sway bar mounts, transgo TFOD-deisel ,atf+4 wallmart,apc headlight wire harness 509104,flosser 9104,xpc sway bar end links sk7280, egt,boost,tran temp gauges ,raybestos 37337 rear wheel cyl. automatic lockup mystery switch, rotella 5 w 40 syn, MKO 4" exhaust,heater water shut off,3000 gsk, big trany cooler w/fan , many new stock parts! |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Here are a couple of charts I have run across here on DTR that give trans temps and ATF fluid life. Hope this helps.
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2004.5 SRW 3500 Black 4x4 SLT CTD QCLB, RanchHand w/ Milemarker 12K, Frontier Rear Bumper, Putnam XDR Class V hitch, Hellwig, Pacbrake air bags, KORE 3'' Springs, PW Flares, Nitto Duragrapplers 285/75/17, AFE Stg 2, Walbro 392 w/2 micron, Smarty, TS MP8, Lazarsmith Traction Bars, DTT 48RE w/DTT Triple Disc TC, F1 v. springs and Flux 1.8s (needs more turbo now!) 506/1057 6-13-09, 13.27 at 8390lbs 10-10-09--stock stix, turbo, cp3 2004 WW FS2600 Toyhauler T.O.M. Dec. 2008 |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Back flush...or clean your front grill tranny cooler. Can make big difference...especially around a farm.
Easy to build a tool for this....2-3' of copper tubing on the end of a hose attachment, with a groove cut in the sealed end. Works to back flush all front end coolers.... radiator, CAC, A/C condenser. You won't believe all the crud/bugs, etc. that comes flying out the front if you flush from the backside! If your CTD is like many others...it's probably never been done! I do mine at the start of every summer.I would drop pan and change fluids/filter also... if haven't recently. Cheap insurance for longest possible life. As asked above...Where is your temp sensor. Good info HERE No idea on smell unless it's a fluid leak ?? RJ
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02, 2500, QCLB, 4x4, Auto, 3.55 Power-Lok LSD - DTT/Billet - Smarty- Mach 4's - BD Twins - O-Ring/Studs -Snow's H2O/Meth - FASS - F-1 Cam/Valve Springs - HTT Manifold - Road Armored - 5" pipe - TC Lockup Switch - 3rd Gen Brakes, Wheels & Trackbar - Fluidampr - DSS - 33" Pro Comp Xtreme A/T's |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for all the info--especially the charts.
I changed the fluid about 12,000 miles ago. and the hottest the monitor had previously recorded it was around 180 degrees. When it got hot last night it was only for about 15-20min until I parked it for the night. I am planning on rebuilding it when I have the money here pretty soon. I will drive it until it says NO.haha I know it has some issues because my average mileage last fall was 16+ and now i can barely get 14mpg. If it was going to be awhile till I was having it rebuilt i would definitely change the fluid, but I am sure it will last another month. Never thought about cleaning out the cooler, I have to rig something up and try. Even though I keep my farm truck pretty cleaned up, I know at times it gets extremely dirty. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Also if you are stopping a lot you can put the tranny in neutral and that will keep the fluid flowing and will help to keep it cooler. Thats if you still have the stock vb. If you have an aftermarket dont worry about it.
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'99 3500 QC SLT Laramie, Leather int. 4x4 auto trans, Suncoast VB, Tsc 89%TC, Edge w/Attitude, Firestorm 2Inj. and Raptor lp, Glacier f/w Separator. 4" str8t exhaust, High flow intake, 62/14/65 turbo, IceBox, Amsoil 15/40, Dual Fans, Non-53. Original owner. |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I still put mine in neutral when stopped for very long. The source of heat seems to be primarily the convertor. By using neutral, the engine is not loaded and the convertor is not loaded either.
Luckily, my Suncoast v/b will lock the convertor in second gear and I use that to my advantage when towing. I also downshift on a hill to keep the trans from heating the fluild. With time, you will learn how to drive and keep the temps down. I towed a friends "99 QCLB 4WD to the trans shop about an hour North of him and I didn't see temps above 210* during slow drives. On the interstate with the convertor locked, I ran around 160* towing at 70 and 75 MPH. Yes, that is a 6000 pound truck towing 10,000 worth of truck, trailer and people up the road. Makes you proud!
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"95 Standard Cab 2WD/Auto #6 plate, AFE, Bosch 215's, exhaust, timed at 18.5, head ported and o-ringed with ARP studs. 3KGSK. Just the average stuff. 309/751 @ rear wheel. Honda Valkyrie "Eating Dynas and smoking Sportsters since 1997" |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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i hav ? people say to use the trans fluild that the dealer sells. is it better than anyother fluild youd buy at the parts store
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93 dodge diesel ext cab 4x4 ,tuned injector pump,bully dog injector pin,K&N filter,vary short stright pipe new truck 93 4x4 ext cab ,K&N filter,stright pipe. another 93 ext 4wd southern cab southern box auto trans. 100 times better than other one. and she just turned over 300.000kms on 08/04/12,5% limo tinted windows sweet |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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used to work in a trans. shop (for a few months, then decided i was a weekend wrencher, not a full timer) when ever we got a truck that came in with a bad trans. that pulled a trailer a lot we asked/ recomended putting an aftermarket trans. oil cooler on, due to the fact that your antifreeze that runs through your radiator along with the trans. cooler is normaly around 200 degrees. and the trans. fluid should stay more around 150-175.
I agree with putting it in neutral if at all possible, because when its in gear the clutch(es) in your torque converter are slipping, and slipping causes heat, and heat apperantly causes damage. there's my $0.02 hope it helps. also if you really want to know, call a transmission shop and ask them what they think about the temps. I am am not 100% sure on the temps, but about 95%.
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98.5 2500, NV4500 w/ cast iron extension housing, FASS DDRP, AFE 4" turbo back, 3rd gen rims w/ 265/70r17 hancook dynapro atm rubber, hypertech maxenergy programer. |
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