lgp9999

Hey guys, just bought my 1998 12v and I will start modding it soon. I'm new to diesels, but have been learning quite quickly. My short term plans for it are a 4" exhuast, boost, EGT, and oil temp guages, and a fuel plate. What fuel plate should I get? I've had my eye on #10. Can I use stock injectors and fuel pumps with it?

signature600

Yes you can! While you're at it, throw a GSK at it...Governor Spring Kit! 3000 RPM makes it run really nice!

Get ready to replace a clutch, I recommend Peter at South Bend!

I'd say go with the #10, and grind the top off it to make a #100...do a search for "100 plate" and you'll see what I mean!

Also, why the oil temp gauge? It stays within 20* of the water temp in these engines, so it's not really a necessary gauge!

Chris

TxDiesel007

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

lgp9999

Thanks so far everyone. No, I don't have an automatic (thank god... one less thing to throw $$$ at), and I don't have a stock clutch (see sig)... we'll see if the Luk can hold up, if not then I'll give South Bend a call.

So if an oil temp gauge is totally unnecessary I guess I'll be buying a double gauge pillar pod, rather than a tripple... unless there's another gauge that you think I should have.

So going beyond the factory 3K red line with a GSK is fine for an otherwise stock engine?

Thanks for all the info TXDiesel007, it's a big help. Your torque plate link isn't working for me though.

Muddin_dude06

Fuel Pressure is also a very important thing to know when modding your 12v, my pressure drops to 10PSI at WOT on full fuel and all I have is a #100 plate and the pump tweaked a tad. On these engines you don't have to worry about how high you rev until 3400-3600RPM, that is when heavy duty valve springs are needed. I HIGHLY reccomend calling Garrett at PureDieselPower.com, awesome customer service and will get you set up in no-time. Enjoy your new truck and the power adders!

TxDiesel007

Thank you!

i appreciate that, well i took that pic out a while back, but im certain u know what a fuel plate is. Now a third gauge? Fuel pressure, once u start gettin up there in the HP its nice to know, But it is a pretty much uneventful gauge. I use to let me know when my FF is plugged up and its a huge aid in testin for a bad LP or bad OFV...

Go with a three pod pillar, I second garret on bein a big help, but u might have to call dieselmanor if you want to get matchin gauges, i have the matchin isspro set and i love it..

Go with a 0-60 psi for FP if u get one... ur gonna need it.... as normal idle for these trucks is 18-24 psi, and mine idles at 40..

Rev beyond 3K? oh easily, and it sounds wicked when it does... i can shift mine at 3400 if i want to and the only fear is valve float from the stock springs above 3400 rpms (hence why i avoid runnin the truck that high)..

Rick

Rick

lgp9999

Okay, I've done enough research to agree that I probably want the 100 plate. All the places that I find that sell plates sell them in stages, rather than numbers so I have no clue on what I'm getting. I would consider purchasing the TST Power Kit, but it appears that they only offer it with a #12 plate, so they're not getting my $$$. Any reccomendations on where to buy a (reasonably priced) #10 plate?

Is there a template anywhere to show exactly how much to grind? Is it something that would be okay for me to grind with a die grinder, or should it be left up to a machine shop?

DieselRook

Go to tstproducts.com very good products and fairly priced

TxDiesel007

Get it for free

grind ur plate urself.. save the money and buy a GSK!

Rick

lgp9999

Hmm, okay cool. Where can I get a template?

Cummins Freak

here ya go

lgp9999

I had already seen that, but was dissapointed that it didn't have measurements. Now that I think about it that will be quite easy to work off of though. That will be a big help... thanks!

lgp9999

Another question, at what power level should I start being worried about my NV4500 or any other drive train component?

signature600

NV4500's have held 600+ with no problems! The D70/80 Hybrid rear will start going south about 450-600 depending on how you use it...sledpulling will break them no matter what, if you don't pull, then you probably won't have any trouble with it even at 600!

You're clutch is really the limit!
Chris

J_T

When it is said "Going south" what part of it is failing? U-joints, Bearings, stripped ring gear, axle splines, what?
I was under the impression that the D/80 was bulletproof? I guess I am wrong?

Thank you
JT