Go Back   Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums > 1st and 2nd Generation Ram - Years 1989-2002 > 1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Reply

 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-13-2011, 04:21 PM   #1
Exekiel69
Registered User
 
Exekiel69's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,140
Replacing valve seals

I will be sending My injectors to have them rebuilt and thought while I wait I could try and do the valve seals since the oil they are leaking through the exhaust is stating to annoy Me.
Is it better if I turn the engine until the piston I'm working on is at the highest then compress the valve spring and remove the keeper and then replace the seal or is there a better way?

Thanks.
__________________
1993 FORD F350 CC DRW, getrag360 5spd converted to 4x4 with D60 and divorced NP205, with a 89 CTD KDP killed conversion, IC, 3200 spring, 5" Stacks.

1987 GMC p30 step van 4bt KDP killed, SM465 + Ranger III overdrive splitter.
Exekiel69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2011, 04:44 PM   #2
jimbo486
Registered User
 
jimbo486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,910
I believe that's just about the easiest, safest and only way to do it. It might take some time having to rotate the engine after every other set of valves but you'll only have to turn it 3 times.
__________________

"My name is Jim, but most people call me.... Jim"
- Blazing Saddles -

- '90 D350 "Rust Bucket Hunter" -
- Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - XDP sump - Bradley's Diesel 5x.013s (68-70lpm) - Powerstroke I/C - Fluidampr -
HTT Super 40/35 'gated 14cm - 4" exh. - '01 NV5600 - SB Con OFE Clutch - D70 3.54 -
263HP / 610ft. lbs. (Aug. '10: prior to Giles VE, AirDog, XDP sump, 5x.013s and Powerstroke I/C)

Updated numbers: TBD

Up and Cummins
- Paint -
jimbo486 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2011, 06:07 PM   #3
Exekiel69
Registered User
 
Exekiel69's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,140
I have some trouble finding TDC but I thought once the injectors are out I could put a straw down the injector hole and see how far up it goes then when it starts to return and the valve springs are fully decompressed it should be right on the spot I need it do start taking the valves apart.

I can turn the engine by turning the alternator so that wont the too hard. I was thinking once the valves are decompressed I could remove the lock clip on each rocker arm (I&E) then get full access to the valves.

Btw, since You said I will only have to turn it 3 times on what sequence do they reach TDC. This will save Me using 6 straws .
Exekiel69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2011, 07:43 PM   #4
jimbo486
Registered User
 
jimbo486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 3,910
Have you tried using the timing pin underneath the injection pump? It locks into the pump gear which ensures TDC #1.

Being an inline motor, each cylinder has a companion. #1 and #6, #2 and #5, #3 and #4 rise and fall together. When one cylinder is firing, the other is on split overlap or TDC of the exhaust/intake stroke

Find TDC for #1 and you can replace the seals there and at #6, same for when you find TDC for #2, replace seals there and at #5, then find TDC for #3 replace those seals as well as seals at #4.
jimbo486 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #5
Exekiel69
Registered User
 
Exekiel69's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,140
Thank You, I needed that information.
Exekiel69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 06:23 PM   #6
Jim5870
Registered User
 
Jim5870's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 667
Will he need something to hold the valve up?
Can the valve drop down out of reach?
__________________
TRUCK #1 1991.5 D-250, platinum, AC, DT stage 1 pin
pump turned up, PDR HX-35/16, 190's,
PDR intercooler, 3200 gov spring,
Goerend converter, Goerend valve body
4" exhaust, *worktruck*

TRUCK #2 1991 D-250, White, Non IC, all stock, AC
727 auto, *restored*

2 Kubota diesel tractors
IH B-250 diesel antique tractor
JD 4045T diesel Genset
Jim5870 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 06:38 PM   #7
BC847
Administrator
 
BC847's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Buies Creek, NC
Posts: 4,405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim5870 View Post
Will he need something to hold the valve up?
Can the valve drop down out of reach?
The point of rotating the engine is to ensure the piston of a given cylinder is at TDC so that when he does remove the valve-spring keepers, the valve can not fall into the cylinder.

And if I'm not mistaken, if the piston were at BDC, the valve could possibly drop below the point you could pull it back up by hand using any exposed valve-stem. Then there's the question of could you be lucky enough to be able to rotate the engine and have the piston push the valve back up so you could grab its stem, without it potentially causing a problem. How lucky do you feel?


Folks, consider this: Once you get #1 cylinder at TDC as verified by the timing pin, make a scratch on the crankshaft damper right next to where the serpentine belt goes by the damper. Just line the mark up with the flat edge of the belt. Eye-ball it.
That way, it's SO much easier to get things back to TDC without fiddling with the timing pin.
__________________
David

Original owner of a 1993 W250 CC.
BC847 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #8
Rick 12v CTD
Registered User
 
Rick 12v CTD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Thunder Bay
Posts: 1,470
And once you've found TDC for #1. just rotate the crank 1/3 of a revolution and then you got your next 2 cylinders at their tdc. Or just look for crossover, it's super easy.
__________________
2003 F250 4x4 3.73 SCSB VE Cummins, Marine pistons, ARP mains & rods, Fluidampr, 80lpm injectors, HPLP+ProComp pusher, 188/220 steel Hamilton cam/HD pushrods, cam bushings & 165#springs, 24v tappets, CTech P&P head/big valves, A1 studs, 374, DennyT#1, Custom AFC, Valet/KSB on switches, ATS mani & A4000 (gasket matched), 4" exh, Blankets/DP wrap, 3" cooler tubes, Amsoil Ea4091 filter, NADP 4R100/PCS controller, Gauges (pyro, boost, drive, trans, fuel, oil & IP case press.), 4" lift, 35" Duratracs
Rick 12v CTD is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 10:54 PM   #9
mhuppertz
Registered User
 
mhuppertz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Posts: 3,403
I'm actually surprised you are getting oil into the exhaust through the valve guides. It's a problem on gasser intakes because they are under vacuum, but our engines are under pressure most of the time intake and exhaust. If the guides are shot I could see some oil wheeping down the valve stems causing a puff on startup, but my POD's do that anyway. I could actually see wasted guides causing enough blowby up the stem to blow the seals off their seats. How do you know they are leaking oil on you?
__________________
MARK - 10 Year Member
'93 W250, HTT Stage IV/16cm, POD's, cut AFC pin, Pump advanced, Pyro, Boost, Oil Pressure Gauges, 3/8” fuel line, BHAF on custom intake, 3,200 Spring, ARP Studs, New Head at 392K, over 400 now, Detroit Locker, NV4500, other stuff…
mhuppertz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2011, 07:18 PM   #10
Exekiel69
Registered User
 
Exekiel69's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhuppertz View Post
I'm actually surprised you are getting oil into the exhaust through the valve guides. It's a problem on gasser intakes because they are under vacuum, but our engines are under pressure most of the time intake and exhaust. If the guides are shot I could see some oil wheeping down the valve stems causing a puff on startup, but my POD's do that anyway. I could actually see wasted guides causing enough blowby up the stem to blow the seals off their seats. How do you know they are leaking oil on you?
I don't know that , but I did see a thin line of oil on the down pipe (a few months ago) so I pulled the turbo thinking it was leaking and found the oil line coming from the exhaust manifold ( I actually started a thread back then asking about this) toward the front. I do not have oil consumption so I didn't think it was too extreme, and since I removed the injectors to have them rebuilt I tried to tackle it today after work but I chickened out, I don't think I'm finding TDC so I'm afraid to drop a valve and loose it. Still have the new valve seals in the box.
btw when I pulled the injectors #2 and #6 were very wet while the other injectors were dry with some carbon build up.
Exekiel69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2011, 07:37 PM   #11
mhuppertz
Registered User
 
mhuppertz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Posts: 3,403
You probably just have leaky injectors causing your oil slobber!
mhuppertz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2011, 07:37 PM
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vB.Sponsors
Copyright 2011, DieselTruckResource.Com
Contacts Backup