kevellis32

I have done quite abit of searching on this subject but I still can't find any pictures on how to replace the fuel filter. I did find this - get a 2 or 3 foot long piece of plastic tubing at least 1/2" inside diameter. This is to slip over the little plastic tube they give you that is attached to the bottom of the fuel filter canister. - put a coffee can on the ground and put the tube extension in it. - on the top of the fuel filter there is a little bleeder screw (it should be a 10mm I think), loosen it up a little. - with your finger (or thumb) turn the yellow drain lever towards the engine block. This will drain out 90+% of the fuel in the canister ... give it a few minutes. Now close the yellow lever (pull back towards you). - Remove the big plastic tube you slipped over the little tube and put a lid on the coffee can that has about 4 or 5 oz. of diesel (save for your next camp fire ). - Now unplug the Water in Fuel sensor connection wire from the canister. - With a 14mm socket (I think) and a universal joint and a 10" long extension, loosen the center nut on top of the canister. Put your hand under the canister. The nut will NOT come off as it is attached to the top of the fuel filter unit so don't worry. When you have loosened the nut all the the way the canister will drop and you'll have to figure a good way to pull it out of there. I pull mine out from under the brake lines and spill a little left over diesel. - Now pull the old filter out of the canister. You'll have to wiggle it a little to get it over the little rubber gasket at the top of the center stud. - Clean out the canister with a paper towel or what ever and put the new filter in. Remember the big black gasket is on top. put the little remove the old little rubber gasket on top of the center stud and put the new one on (wipe it with a little left over diesel). - Now snake the canister under the brake lines and get the stud lined up with the nut on the fuel filter cap. Hand tighten it a little, then snug it up with the ratchet. - Reconnect the Water in Fuel sensor connection. Push it together good till it snap locks. - Now, with the bleeder screew still loosened, reach down and pump the primer button about a million and a half time till you see some fuel burp out the bleeder screw. Tighten down the bleeder screew. - Give everything a last look, then hop in and start her up. It will run ruff for about 10 - 20 seconds and then smooths out. But pictures would always be helpful...anyone got any?

Dr. Evil

NO pics but have a procedure...

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm

Id use a lint free rag to clean out the filter housing not paper towel...

Box5

I guess it's alot harder on the newer years? Because mine u just unplug the WIF sensor, and unscrew the filter and ur done.

Dr. Evil

Ive never done on of the screw on/off filters but yeah 97 & 98 is a little more involved and can be quite a pain.

I would like to convert my filter to the screw on kind...

SoTexRattler

Did that, and wore my thumb and R arm out. I said there's gotta be an easier way...
I cut a piece of broomstick and sanded smooth the end so as to not cut the cute little black accordion rubber bellows that covers the plunger.
Now, prime to your heart's content by simply grasping the broomstick, place the flat, smoothed end on the pump plunger and go to town. Lots faster than by hand too. (still takes a million and a half strokes)
BTW, the overflow valve will start squeeking it's "liquid full" sound with each stroke after all the bubbles make it through. I never messed with the bleeder screw at all...

K.

clutch1

not that hard at all ..... put a drain pan under truck, disconnect wif sensor, open water drain valve and leave it open while its drainin' loosen nut on top of filter housing, pull canister off and out you'll figure it out, close drain valve clean canister, put new filter with new gaskets into filter housing, slide canister back in position it'll only go on one way line up the slot,tighten nut open bleed screw and pump till fuel spills, tighten screw and connect wif sensor

ScottN

You guys make this sound really bad... I don't understand why everyone suffers through spilling fuel on themselves and pushing that stupid primer button.

I did that the first time, then figured out a couple tricks:

First off, wear disposable gloves - if diesel gets on them, change them not long after, it will destroy the material. It is worth using the gloves. Very much so.

-> Get a 750 mL (~16 oz) yoghurt container, put the filter drain tube into it /so the fuel drains into it, and squeeze it up in/on the front axle diff. If that doesn't work, well, it does on my truck.

-> Open the water drain valve and let it run until it stops running, the yoghurt container should be almost full, but you'd be well advised to keep an eye on it. There is about 700 mL I'd guess in the fuel filter canister, so you'll get most of it.

-> Close the valve, pull the yoghurt container out, dispose of the fuel safely.

-> Unclip WIP sensor, loosen the filtre canister, remove, rotate, and place on the frame rail.

-> Go below the truck, remove it by gently guiding it along beside the engine/transmission and frame

-> pull out the old filtre and seals, clean well

-> fill it 85% full with fuel ideally sparkling clean, but if you do it this way, it should go in the dirty side of the filtre, so it won't be a big concern if the fuel is ordinary grade. It will be about 90% full now.

-> (NEED GLOVES FOR THIS) Lube rubber seals/o-rings with diesel fuel. Now put the new filtre in - slowly, let the fuel go through the filtre material so it doesn't spill.

-> Put a small bag that covers the whole top of the filtre assembly on top of this. The bag is to prevent crud from falling into the filtre as you place it in the truck.

-> go underneath the truck, and very carefully and slowly raise the filtre to the point on the frame where you stored the canister before.

-> go to top of truck. VERY CAREFULLY remove bag so no crud gets on the filtre (the clean side is exposed!). Immediately install canister, it will fit only in one position due to notch, and tighten nut that holds it.

-> Rejoice in having changed the filtre without getting any diesel on yourself.

If you do this properly, and filled it enough, you do not need to bleed your fuel system. My engine runs rough with a small amount of throttle for about 10-15 seconds at most, then runs smooth as silk. I can do this without any spillage. Though my narrow, lanky arms probably help.