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Repair leaking fuel pin.

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Old 12-19-2009, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
Great writeup Jim!

I'll double check to make sure I don't have fuel coming out the vent.

Edwin

Ditto,

Are we talking the small tube with a right angle pointing towards the ground at the back of the pump (firewall side)???

I get small drips of fuel out of there and can't figure out why.

Pete
Old 12-19-2009, 05:34 PM
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That's it, the vent cover, it's made of rubber etc. The bad thing about leaks from the vent is you have to remove the IP to replace the seal on the guide pin.
Old 12-19-2009, 05:53 PM
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You don't have to take the whole pump off, just the pump top.
Old 12-19-2009, 06:02 PM
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Your right! I was thinking of the gov' shaft...
Old 12-19-2009, 06:13 PM
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oh boy, this is my next project after the new clutch goes in! thankfully jim was nice enough to document this. i may give him a call and see if he wouldn't mind helping me out with such a project.
Old 12-30-2009, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbo486
oh boy, this is my next project after the new clutch goes in! thankfully jim was nice enough to document this. i may give him a call and see if he wouldn't mind helping me out with such a project.

Hey Jim,
No problem if you run into a snag just give me a call in the afternoon.

Here are a few last minuet ideas I thought I would offer you.

The first thing that you need to do is to index the shaft so you can return your linkage to the same spline on the throttle lever.

First I scribed a line across the top of the shaft for a reference (later on when I had it out I cut the mark in deeper with a 3-corner file.

Then using a Sharpie I marked the position on the lever (also photographing it)

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Here is a closer look.

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You can remove the pump top without unscrewing the Fuel screw then you can measure from the top of the jam nut to the end of the screw so you can use this for your starting point, then when the screw is out you can remove the locking collar and clean up the threads using a small 3-corner file if you do not happen to have a metric thread chaser or a die set.

Need to be careful, I wasn't and the locking collar must have fallen off.

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Same side but now you are looking at the cover upside down.

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This is a lot more accurate than trying to count the turns as you back it out; I use a small machinist rule to do the measuring.

You can cut a small Go-No Go gauge out of sheet metal so you only have to hold it up against the threads to set it the length.

Once you install the #366 spring then there is no turning back, you will always want just a little more and I met the guys that you hang around with, they are a bad influence.

I don’t remember if you had a Pyrometer or not but I thought you did.

Oh and another thing if I didn't state it in the post, you need to have a Metric Hex Key set that has a BALL end so you can reach the bolt on the back side.

When I replace the top I will first connect up the #366 spring to the lever and top hat and then holding the throttle shaft in my left hand against the spring snuggly then drop the cover down guiding the shaft through the bushing, after enough of the shaft extends then grasping it turn it I the direction of full fuel (counter-clockwise) as you drop it into position (don’t forget the cover gasket)



Here it is rotated to show you how the assembly looks but like mentioned above you would hold the shaft vertical with the pump body and then drop the cover onto the shaft closing up the pump, pulling the shaft tight against the top the o-ring will hold it in place so you can later install the spring and linkages.

At this time you would have the fuel screw removed or at least backed out till it is almost flush with the case.
If you were to install the cover with the fuel pin in place and force it into place there is a good chance you could break the lever of the governor and cost you a lot of money to replace it.

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You can install it with the fuel screw in place but unless you have done it many times and have a good feel for the pump I would advise against it, there are tricks like pulling the lever towards fuel position with a piece of wire while dropping the rear of the cover down first then releasing it but unless you have done it many times you will always be thinking "did I knock something loose" and you will keep rethinking yourself.

You might need these instructions also,

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=239076

After it is all back together and before you start it, you want to have something that looks like this handy just in case something went wrong, you are welcome to mine if you need it.

I have never had a 6BT engine run away yet but it is better to be safe than sorry although I have had several Detroit’s run away and I have learned to not stick around and try and be the hero.

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Just take your time and let me know if you have any problems.
Jim
Old 02-18-2010, 12:31 AM
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for anyone doing this repair, i would suggest replacing the flat seal ring. shown in the diagram below, it is behind the bushing where the AFC guide pin's o-ring (the one you're replacing) resides. also, be sure that you tighten the keeper as tight as you can. i resealed mine tonight, again, and found that mine had worked itself lose. that could've been drastic had it fallen out of place .

Old 02-02-2011, 10:19 PM
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Great info. We need this pinned
Old 11-23-2011, 08:02 PM
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Thanks

A real life saver, and very detailed. I'll be fixing my river of a leak soon.
Old 12-02-2011, 05:57 PM
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So....umm....if the little bearings won't com out, then what?
Old 12-14-2011, 05:31 PM
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I finally got the bearings out after having to take a dremal to them.
Old 10-28-2014, 06:36 PM
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That was a perfect read.

Hi, my name is Chris and I am a new member to this site I live in a small place in South Wales called Neath, in the U.K. I hope you don't mind me asking you to help me I have spent over £2000.00 on my engine in my boat, I know it is not a truck or 4x4 my boat has a 6 Cylinder diesel engine ( Volvo Penta ) Ad41B
it has a Bosch pump on it and from what I have read in your post about a fuel leak, you are the man to ask for help, Well here goes( HELP) I have a problem
with it when i rev the engine by the throttle lever on the pump it will not rev to full throttle, it gets to about half throttle there is movement on the lever but the engine do not rev more even though the is a good inch of travel on the throttle
but the engine don't rev up more, I was told by a local fitter to change the turbo, and then to change the Injectors, which I did, and £2000.00 later It still
the same can you please help in the best way forward for me, I am not the best fitter in the world but I know a bit about ( petrol engines )Not a lot about diesel engines. Could you tell me what to look at next, and could you explain how to test or check that the governor is not the problem, ( given that there is still movement from half throttle to full throttle and No change in engine rev's )
Kind regards Chris Featherstone (bedrockthefirst)
Old 07-26-2017, 09:38 PM
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I was getting ready to do this job and now the pictures are all gone. Can the pictures be found?
Old 07-27-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by edahall
I was getting ready to do this job and now the pictures are all gone. Can the pictures be found?
Yeah, pay photobucket their ransom.
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:21 AM
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You guys are going to have to be a bit patient, I am going to have to find a comparable hosting service and then re upload all of the pictures for my articles and then reconnect all of the broken links,

It took me over 10 years to collect these and I have around 2000 images to move.

Just last night I tried to download all of my album from PhotoBucket to my computer and suprise surprise after waiting about 5 minuets up pops an error message and for some reason I cannot download them.
Like I did not see that one coming.

So please people be patient,

A lot of us got screwed.
Jim
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