Rear Disc Brake Conversion
#3
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#4
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Thread Starter
-used weld on brackets
-1976 Caddilac Eldorado calipers with e brake and braided lines
-80's chev 4X4 rotors
-new e brake cables
Fairly easy actually, take the drum and hub off then press out the studs to separate drum from hub, unbolt the old backing plate.
-install rotor onto hub and press in the studs.
(might have to oversize the stud hole a little on the rotor)
-put the hub and rotor on the axle
-install the pads into the caliper and bolt the caliper onto the new bracket.
-get a grease gun hose and put on a fitting to connect to your compressed
air source, the other end of the greasegun hose will screw into the caliper.
-put the caliper on the rotor and position it where you want it, hook up
the compressed air, the caliper will engage the rotor and now your bracket will be lined up on the axle tube.
-tack weld the bracket.
-remove the caliper and rotor/hub, weld on your bracket.
( I brought in a pro welder for this job )
-clean things up, a little spray paint, then put your hub/rotor back on
-Install the caliper
- I used new Dodge e brake cables, found out that they will adapt easier if
I put them on backwards (front to back)
- The rest is regular brake line and bleeding stuff.
-1976 Caddilac Eldorado calipers with e brake and braided lines
-80's chev 4X4 rotors
-new e brake cables
Fairly easy actually, take the drum and hub off then press out the studs to separate drum from hub, unbolt the old backing plate.
-install rotor onto hub and press in the studs.
(might have to oversize the stud hole a little on the rotor)
-put the hub and rotor on the axle
-install the pads into the caliper and bolt the caliper onto the new bracket.
-get a grease gun hose and put on a fitting to connect to your compressed
air source, the other end of the greasegun hose will screw into the caliper.
-put the caliper on the rotor and position it where you want it, hook up
the compressed air, the caliper will engage the rotor and now your bracket will be lined up on the axle tube.
-tack weld the bracket.
-remove the caliper and rotor/hub, weld on your bracket.
( I brought in a pro welder for this job )
-clean things up, a little spray paint, then put your hub/rotor back on
-Install the caliper
- I used new Dodge e brake cables, found out that they will adapt easier if
I put them on backwards (front to back)
- The rest is regular brake line and bleeding stuff.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
for the caliper brackets...
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Calipers.html
caliper hoses
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...lipers%29.html
e brake adapters
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...Extension.html
calipers
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Calipers.html
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Calipers.html
caliper hoses
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...lipers%29.html
e brake adapters
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...Extension.html
calipers
https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-Calipers.html
#9
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Thread Starter
#14
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#15
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the egr kit I used bolted on and used the '80's f250 rotors, im not partial to the cad caliper, the ebrake adjuster eventually leaks, every couple pad changes, I replace calipers too. im researching the '90's ford e250 d70 rears with the early version of internal ebrake shoes, much more dependable, and caliper will retract without using tool to spin down piston. ive got 200k on mine, its a pita when your spinning piston down, and caliper starts leaking, and caliper takes a couple days to source, just my 2 sense.