Rear Brake Dragging
10-11-2014, 12:58 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
I put new nuts when I did the brakes 10000 miles ago. One is good, and the other is all chewed up. Bearings seem fine. Maybe I'm not fussy enough, or maybe I had it a bit loose or tight. Any suggestions?
BK, you got part numbers and source?
BK, you got part numbers and source?
10-11-2014, 02:22 PM
#17
Registered User
DORMAN 05306
fits just about every Dana 3/4- and 1-ton spindle, whether Ford, Dodge, or Chevy, plus fits the front 4x4 Dana 60s.
RockAuto also has them.
The folding tab lock-washers are available just about everywhere for little more than a dollar apiece.
fits just about every Dana 3/4- and 1-ton spindle, whether Ford, Dodge, or Chevy, plus fits the front 4x4 Dana 60s.
RockAuto also has them.
The folding tab lock-washers are available just about everywhere for little more than a dollar apiece.
10-11-2014, 02:37 PM
#18
Registered User
Well, I found a few things.
The e-brake lever was not very free on it's pin/bushing. I took it all apart, hit the bushing with emery cloth and WD 40 to remove the rust. Put it back together with a new adjuster cable and lubed up with SilGlide.
The top tab on the rear brake shoe wasn't quite tall enough to properly engage the e-brake lever. It looks like the lever was skipping over the top some and binding. I changed out the wheel cylinder just in case it was binding.
It got down to about 25 degrees last night. I had left the brake drums out on the grass, inner end down with a cover over the outer end. There was so much condensation in them over night that the grease residue was cloudy, and the drum inside was all wet and rusting. I knocked the inner bearings out and cleaned them, and ordered seals.
I've found that O'Reilys rocks when it comes to parts for older cars. Nobody in town had the spindle nut wedges except the Dodge ***********. They wanted 8.95 apiece for them. O'reily got em in in 4 hours at 1.49 They also got in an Edelmann 3/16" x 9/16-20 brake control T in 4 hours.
The e-brake lever was not very free on it's pin/bushing. I took it all apart, hit the bushing with emery cloth and WD 40 to remove the rust. Put it back together with a new adjuster cable and lubed up with SilGlide.
The top tab on the rear brake shoe wasn't quite tall enough to properly engage the e-brake lever. It looks like the lever was skipping over the top some and binding. I changed out the wheel cylinder just in case it was binding.
It got down to about 25 degrees last night. I had left the brake drums out on the grass, inner end down with a cover over the outer end. There was so much condensation in them over night that the grease residue was cloudy, and the drum inside was all wet and rusting. I knocked the inner bearings out and cleaned them, and ordered seals.
I've found that O'Reilys rocks when it comes to parts for older cars. Nobody in town had the spindle nut wedges except the Dodge ***********. They wanted 8.95 apiece for them. O'reily got em in in 4 hours at 1.49 They also got in an Edelmann 3/16" x 9/16-20 brake control T in 4 hours.
10-11-2014, 07:43 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
That bushing gets rusty and binds the lever. Solution is to clean it up and put a little silicon grease on it.
10-18-2014, 12:02 AM
#20
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Having the same issue with my truck as well. The joys of owning a first gen. Going to be doing a RWAL valve delete as well (which I actually just finished reading from a write up by jmartin.)
10-18-2014, 02:53 PM
#21
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Neverseized the crap out of it... and reassembled it. Fine since then.
10-20-2014, 12:03 PM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just put 1200 miles on mine pulling the fiver. Couple of panic stops in the mix to prove things. Man, I need a train horn.
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