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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Rear axle seal
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1996 4X4 Dodge Ram Cummins club cab, K&N filter, 4" exhaust, Donaldson muffler, no cat. Power mods to come |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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You need the special rounded edge 2 9/16 socket, no way around it.
They don't cost all that much from the auto parts. You also need the pound in nut keepers, less than a buck. I've been given the wrong seal at the auto parts but found they can easily figure out the correct seal if you bring in the brake drum. The job is really easy and self evident once you get into it. Just some tips, If you can't get the drums off jackstand both wheels off the ground, tires and all lug nuts removed except one nut loosely, start the engine drop it into gear with some rpm and slam on the brakes. Forward and reverse if need be. Jack the side you're working on high so that fluid flows to the other side. Check the part of the axle for a ridge that catches your fingernail when drug over the part where the seal rides. If it has a notch worn in it it will leak again. Solution is to install the new seal a little deeper or shallower. Coat the outer edge of the new seal with RTV before installing to assure no leaks. If your brake shoes are oil soaked they will be impossible to clean and should be replaced. On a 1 -10 scale of difficultly with 10 being the hardest I would give it a 2.
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Bill '95 2500 4x4 auto '95 3500 5 speed flatbed hauler stock for one day |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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If that doesn't do it, loosen off the brake shoes. When I did the brakes on my dually years ago, the drums were well worn past the service limit, had a large lip on the edge and the shoes wouldn't pass over it. Backed the shoes off and the drum slid right off.
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'98 3500 4x2 Quad Cab, 24v, 5 spd, 3.55s, CDS 13mm, SDX 7x.012 Injectors, Single S480, Big Stick Cam, FASS, BD Short Shifter, SBC DD, Fluidampr Alcoa Magnums, GM Brake Cylinders, HID Headlights, DSS '98 2500 4x4 Reg Cab, 12v, 6 spd, 3.55s, 0 plate, 4k GSK, 18° Timing, SBC DD, F1 370's, GT37R/GTX42R Twins, Fluidampr Alcoa H2's, Lorado Tonneau Cover, HID Headlights, Espar D5, EMS Hub Conversion |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Ok, picked up the socket at Napa today. 9 bucks, not bad.
The guy at Napa gave me a blank stare when I asked him if he had the keeper for the axle nut. Anyone have a pic of it?I read different things about the torque specs. 150 ft lbs. and back off a 1/4 turn? Does that sound correct? Do I need a gasket when I put the axle shaft back in? Sorry about all the questions but I want to make sure I do this right |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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At my Napa the keepers are listed as a Ford part.
I always use RTV in place of the gasket. Pretty nice how to google found me> http://www.saoffroad.com/forums/tech...hange-out.html This is for a Dana 80 with disc brakes but the basics are the same. Keeper
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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1995 Dodge/Cummins 2500, ATS Stage IV Trans w/Five-Star converter, TST #6, K&N, Aero 45 Gal. Aux Tank, Pac Brake, Rhino liner, Mag Hytecs, UTE Bullbar, disc-brake Dana 70, running boards, TripleLok Commander |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Good info! Thanks for the link and the photo.
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Do you have the part number for these keepers?
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JESUS SAVES! 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 QCSB 12v 5-Speed 4x4 3.54 gears - SDX 5x.012, S300G Turbo, Custom Fuel Plate, pull cable shut down, 4" straight pipe, GM 1 ton wheel cylinders, other stuff... sold...2006 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 6-Speed QCLB / 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Auto CCLB / 1993 Dodge Ram W250 4x4 Auto CCLB / 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 6-Speed QCLB Founder INDTR #29 |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Sorry, no.
My local Napa guys are pretty sharp, I told them what I was after and he went to the back and pulled them out without having to look it up. |
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#10 | |
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Pickin on the wrong admin...
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Quote:
...But the dealership does stock these keepers..
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1995 Dodge,280,000 miles, regular cab dually,4X4,5 speed,4:10 gears,Wastegate blocked,15 degree timing,Polyurethane control arm bushings,BHAF,KDP Tabbed,Pyro & Boost,DSS,2003 trackbar upgrade,Steerring bushing,#0 plate,3K springs,215 injectors,Laser cut DV,Con OFE. Mar 2008, Dyno: 353HP/735 Ft Lbs June 2008 Dyno:344HP/835 Ft Lbs 1978 Mercedes 450SL 1956 Chev 4 door Sedan 1977 T/A 400,4-speed 1963 Ford Falcon,2 door |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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I paid $1.99 for a pack of four at Napa.
Considering what they are even that's a ripoff. Most times they are reusable but it's best to have a new one on hand just in case. |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I usually replace the nut on these also, you think the little yellow clip is expensive. The locking type nut is $50 each, If you can screw the nut on easily with your fingers and there is a deep grove worn into nut it's time for a new one. If you don't the left side wheel will be the first to separate from your truck. I have seen this happen several times because someone was trying to save a buck. Don't forget to pack bearings or pre oil with gear oil and fill cavity in hub with gear oil also. Back nut off slightly to relieve preload until wheel spins easily about 1/8 of a turn and don't forget the lock clip.
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TYRANNY is Ruling Without Regard to the Laws. 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD , Patriot Blue |
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#13 |
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Pickin on the wrong admin...
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Its the same for the main nut for the Dana 80...Dealer wanted $75 each..The jobber wanted $65 each...Got them from the Dana supplier....$10..each
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fremont, OH/Newport News, VA
Posts: 426
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wow, i thought the front axle nuts was bad, it cost me like 27 bucks.
another tip is take some fine emery cloth and clean up where the seal rides real well, if there is any gunk, or a burr or anything itll eat thru that new seal in no time. I too, like mentioned, put a nice coat of RTV on the shaft instead of a seal. And permatex the outside edge of the seal to seal it up to the hub.
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02, 24v, 6 speed, Edge Juice w/ Attitude, BHAF, 5" exhaust to dual 7" turnout stacks, 35" Pro Comp Xtreme AT's, silencer ring removed, 1700 watt stereo, XM radio, CB, Eaton Fuller shift ****, Fuel Boss Mechanical Lift Pump, on board plug in jumper cables, JKIDD's 100hp sticks, 1st VP under my belt @133k mi |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I found a keeper at NAPA but its a different size then the one in my truck. Anyone know the torque on the spindle nut, and the 8 bolts for the axle? Can't find it on my CD service manual.
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