Rear axle seal replacement LONG
01-15-2008, 06:21 PM
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Rear axle seal replacement LONG
So I have a leak in the drivers side rear, so much the brakes were smoking this evening, truck is now parked until it's fixed. I been searching and reading on replacement and a lot of people say it's just a plugged vent but I'm not buying that, I will check the vent but I believe once it leaks it will always leak, I want to replace both sides rear only, new fluid the whole 9 yards.
I read Infidels post
I think the nut is a 2-9/16" from searching but alas seems pretty easy, I've done bearings seals and diff's from ford 8.8's am I looking at much the same? Easier harder, the same? Should I replace the bearings or just repack, obviously if there is ware I will replace.
The last part of the quote says to coat the outside with RTV that is the part that presses into the axle tube correct and the inside with grease is where the axle will pass through correct. I have bearing setter set (I'm not sure what it's really called but it's for setting bearings and axle seals) so installing even, no twist, isn't an issue I just want all my ducks in a row.
I've read 3.5 qt to fill, what kind of fluid for the LS diff. New pads as well? Just replaced them 5000 miles ago with ceramics.
Should I replace the gasket for the diff cover or just use RTV, reason I ask is I replaced on my 8.8 the gasket 2 times and it always leaked, a good coat of RTV and letting it sit for several hours never leaked, or gasket and RTV on both sides of the gasket.
Sorry for the long post but thanks for your help.
I read Infidels post
I've never had to open up the differential to change the seals.
Jack the side you are working on high so fluid flows to the other side.
Remove wheel, remove the eight small bolts that hold the cap on, you will have to use RTV on the cap when you reinstall. Remove the keeper on the big nut (you will need a new one), remove big nut, it takes a 2-9/19" rounded socket that you can pick up at most autoparts. After the nut is off you can pull out the axle and outer bearing.
I use the axle for a slide hammer to remove the seal. I'm trying to remember how this goes without looking at it but seem to recall leaving the outer bearing off, hand tighten the nut and the axle will be a slide hammer.
The rest is self evident. Use RTV on the outside of the new seal to prevent leaks. I coat the inner part of the seal with grease to prevent the spring from bouncing out when yo drive the seal in.
Sorry don't know the torque values offhand, maybe someone else will pipe in.
All in all it's very easy job even for someone with little mechanical experience.
Jack the side you are working on high so fluid flows to the other side.
Remove wheel, remove the eight small bolts that hold the cap on, you will have to use RTV on the cap when you reinstall. Remove the keeper on the big nut (you will need a new one), remove big nut, it takes a 2-9/19" rounded socket that you can pick up at most autoparts. After the nut is off you can pull out the axle and outer bearing.
I use the axle for a slide hammer to remove the seal. I'm trying to remember how this goes without looking at it but seem to recall leaving the outer bearing off, hand tighten the nut and the axle will be a slide hammer.
The rest is self evident. Use RTV on the outside of the new seal to prevent leaks. I coat the inner part of the seal with grease to prevent the spring from bouncing out when yo drive the seal in.
Sorry don't know the torque values offhand, maybe someone else will pipe in.
All in all it's very easy job even for someone with little mechanical experience.
The last part of the quote says to coat the outside with RTV that is the part that presses into the axle tube correct and the inside with grease is where the axle will pass through correct. I have bearing setter set (I'm not sure what it's really called but it's for setting bearings and axle seals) so installing even, no twist, isn't an issue I just want all my ducks in a row.
I've read 3.5 qt to fill, what kind of fluid for the LS diff. New pads as well? Just replaced them 5000 miles ago with ceramics.
Should I replace the gasket for the diff cover or just use RTV, reason I ask is I replaced on my 8.8 the gasket 2 times and it always leaked, a good coat of RTV and letting it sit for several hours never leaked, or gasket and RTV on both sides of the gasket.
Sorry for the long post but thanks for your help.
01-16-2008, 06:37 PM
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I browsed it quick, but I'll make a few quick points. The diff gets filled approx. 1/2" LOWER than the fill hole. Any fluid is good, 75w90 if you're not pulling a house 24/7. If you are, 75w140 is the other option. Royal purple is the recommended synthetic option. It comes WITH friction modifier for a LSD, so may or may not have to add some of the mopar friction modifier yourself. If you DO, add it at 1 oz. intervals until you get the desired results.
IF the pads have been soaked with oil, it's time for a new set. The oil is already absorbed, and done it's damage. Everytime the p[ads heat-up you're going to smell gear oil. Eventually after enough heating cycles the pads WILL fall apart.
You can order a gasket for the diff cover from the dealer, but 95% of folks out there just use RTV. Your other option is do both ( I wouldn't put a gasket on without some sort of sealer on it personally). As for the seals, if you're pulling it apart you mine as well do both sides, otherwise Murphy's law is gonna nip you in the but and you'll be doing the other side in 3 weeks....
The final thing I can share is that my dad's 01 Dually had a rear seal go bad in the same fashion. Had one shop replace the seal 6 times before they finally admitted that they couldn't get it to stop and weren't sure why. A trip to the dealer revealed that the housing the seal sits in had rusted away, and it was now impossible for the seal to sit properly and keep the hole sealed off. From there, we had a big-rig shop install what they call a speed-seal. They machined away the rusted imperfect service, apparently pressed in a steel ring to replace what was removed, and then installed the OEM seal into the "speed-seal". 20k miles later and no issues to date...Anyways, my point is inspect the area throughly before putting it back together. My dad's issue wasn't a common issue, but it can't hurt to keep an eye out for things like that.
Hope some of this at least helped....
IF the pads have been soaked with oil, it's time for a new set. The oil is already absorbed, and done it's damage. Everytime the p[ads heat-up you're going to smell gear oil. Eventually after enough heating cycles the pads WILL fall apart.
You can order a gasket for the diff cover from the dealer, but 95% of folks out there just use RTV. Your other option is do both ( I wouldn't put a gasket on without some sort of sealer on it personally). As for the seals, if you're pulling it apart you mine as well do both sides, otherwise Murphy's law is gonna nip you in the but and you'll be doing the other side in 3 weeks....
The final thing I can share is that my dad's 01 Dually had a rear seal go bad in the same fashion. Had one shop replace the seal 6 times before they finally admitted that they couldn't get it to stop and weren't sure why. A trip to the dealer revealed that the housing the seal sits in had rusted away, and it was now impossible for the seal to sit properly and keep the hole sealed off. From there, we had a big-rig shop install what they call a speed-seal. They machined away the rusted imperfect service, apparently pressed in a steel ring to replace what was removed, and then installed the OEM seal into the "speed-seal". 20k miles later and no issues to date...Anyways, my point is inspect the area throughly before putting it back together. My dad's issue wasn't a common issue, but it can't hurt to keep an eye out for things like that.
Hope some of this at least helped....
01-16-2008, 07:57 PM
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You can order a gasket for the diff cover from the dealer, but 95% of folks out there just use RTV. Your other option is do both ( I wouldn't put a gasket on without some sort of sealer on it personally). As for the seals, if you're pulling it apart you mine as well do both sides, otherwise Murphy's law is gonna nip you in the but and you'll be doing the other side in 3 weeks....
I was planning on doing both sides so that's not an issue. The gasket is available at NAPA, is normally a dealer item and they are going to sell me the wrong one? I don't have a problem using RTV only but if I can get a gasket I think it would make mores sense.
I am going synthetic in the rear so I'll look at Royal Purple and get the additive as necessary.
Again thanks.
01-16-2008, 09:01 PM
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It's not a dealer only item, but I've never gone through the hassle of checking other parts stores for the gasket. Makes sense though. A dana 70 is a dana 70. I'd have to imagine the gasket/diff cover is a standard thing.
04-24-2012, 12:35 PM
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When I did mine I went with Royal Purple with fric mod and didn't need to add any additionally.
Black RTV is all I used to seal the cover to the case and hasn't leaked in 5 years. Just put on a good bead, let it skin and then get it on straight. A couple studs of the correct thread size will help greatly here, also clean off the surfaces with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner so they are good and dry.
In my opinion the gasket/seal doubles the chances for a leak as you just doubled the surface area of both parts by adding the seal, more chances of leaking.
Black RTV is all I used to seal the cover to the case and hasn't leaked in 5 years. Just put on a good bead, let it skin and then get it on straight. A couple studs of the correct thread size will help greatly here, also clean off the surfaces with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner so they are good and dry.
In my opinion the gasket/seal doubles the chances for a leak as you just doubled the surface area of both parts by adding the seal, more chances of leaking.
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04-27-2012, 01:17 PM
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u can change the seal without draining all the fluid just take off drive shaft. take nut off hold yok with pipe rench. then tap lite on back side of yok. take a small 9o digree bent pick and pull of slowly. wipe clean tap new seal on put back to gether and ur good. i did it it works. iv heard silicon works on the cover seen it done good luck
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