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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Pulling a tranny this weekend
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1968 FJ40 TBI 350, TH350, 60's, 40's, Hummer beadlocks,... Will be driven daily |
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#2 |
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it's really not to hard, the hardest part was unbolting the converter. The access hole is behind and underneith the turbo or front of the trans if you will, ya need to remove the little inspection cover and turn over the engine till the bolts line up with the hole ( I used a prybar on the flywheel teath to move it just right NOT THE KEY) then remove them one at a time. Unhook the driveshafts shift linkage wires cooler lines, remove the dip stick, unbolt the crossmember and bellhousing bolts, get a GOOD trans jack and attach the transmission to it verry well. You do not want it falling off and landing on you (read very heavy).
lower it down slowly and your done. Dont forget to unhook the battery as you have to remove the starter and that many amps hangin around could get exciting. Draining the fluid before you start would be good as well. Just for kicks I unhooked the down pipe and all the fasteners on the front of the exhaust system so I could move the 4" pipe around a bit. hope that helps. Like I started with, its really not to hard. I had mine out in 2 hours. Good luck Dan
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84Toyota 4x4 2.4 ltr Turo Diesel Sold the Cummins Hang on dear this is gonna be fun!!! Saving for a MEGA Cab now.. |
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#3 |
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Banned
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Yeah it's a piece of cake, just takes a little bit of time!! If you are good with yours tools you should have no problem what so ever.......ZUKGODs instructions are pretty darn good!!! Good luck man!
~Nick |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I just did my manual trans. Like stated, not technically difficult. Just time consuming since it was the first tranny I have ever dropped. Took me about 8 hours to do it, but I was taking my time and learning as I went. Biggest pain wasnt till I put it back in, that skid plate, I swear its press fit into the frame.
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2003 Jetta TDi Manual |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
I wonder if you could do it with a highlift jack? A ram off a cherry picker might work too.
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02 QCSB 2500 4X4, 192K, 5 spd, BHAF, 4" exhaust, Boost/EGT/FP gauges, Edge comp (no fuel wire!), Walbro 392. |
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#6 |
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Registered
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they use what they call a port-a-power. which is acually a 2 way cylinder with feet on both ends. just put the feet on the frame rails and pump away. works great. i pulled my trans about a month ago to install a dd clutch and now i had to pull it again to replace the syncros. fixing to go stab it back in right now...
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Can you rent a port a power? Between my friends and I we have a ton of tools, someone needs to buy one of these
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#8 |
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Registered User
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You can also get it back in by putting the bottom in first. Angle it up that way, tap it in with a 5 lbs sledge and then turn it right side up.
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#9 | |
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Registered User
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.....you DO NOT have to r/r the starter. It bolts to the adapter plate so no need to even unhook the batteries. You can leave the exhaust hooked up too. When you have your inspection cover off look toward the bottom and you'll see an "arrow". Line the lugs of the convertor up with that arrow and your convertor bolt will be lined up in the access hole. As stated above....get a porta power. I usually remove the trans and trans case as a unit, but that may not be feasable for an "on your back" removal session. |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Well I removed I removed it. I unhooked the batteries and removed the starter. When I'm under my truck moving someting as heavy as a trany I want AS MUCH ROOM as possable And as I stated I losened my exhaust so I hade more room, same as above. More room is better. I was able to remove the trans with the t case attached. So its "feasable" to do it on your back. |
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#11 | |
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Administrator
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Quote:
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J.R. U.S. Coast Guard , Electronics Technician 1st class Extra class Amateur radio operator - K5DTR 2001½ SLT 2500 2WD, auto, short bed Hi-flow banjo bolts FASS DDRP Scotty Air II Isspro EGT (pre-turbo),fuel pressure, boost, and transmission temperature (sensor in hot line) guages |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Normally I would let this slide, but removing that crossmember is worlds better with a porta power. I have not seen one of those crossmembers "slide" back EVER! not without the help of a BFH.
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Well I just yanked it all for the msot part. There is a cluster of wires that goes into the drivers side of the tranny. How do I get these out?
Also, can I yank the tranny without removing the converter? I am hopinh to pull the converter later on in the week. Thanks Dima |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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There'a a little clip on th harness where it plugs into the trans.
And no, the converter has to come out with the trans. just for referance I didnt have a hard time with my crossmember. I just smacked it a few times with a BFH and it came out. Back in the same way. Good luck Dan |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I have not used a porta power for the X member. Raise the tranny a bit and push UP on the driver's side. That allows you to swing the member around and come out easily.
george
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george '94 3500. AUTO 354 rear' #4 plate, 3000 GSK, 370's' BHAF' and 4" Drain pipe 470,000KM '08 3500 DRW Laramie QC LB 4x4 auto Silver WBCCI # 3155 |
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