Hooking into the "hotline" for the trans temp gauge
 

Does anyone have a step by step on this, and list of exactly what you need to hook into the line, i have the autometer transtemp gauge and i am looking to do this this weekend, so i was hoping to have a good understanding of what needs to be done to get this done.

Thanks,
Kevin

Go to your Dodge dealer and order line number 5011244AA, that is the hot tranny line with the fitting for a sending unit. Be sure you have the lines that "bolt" in not use the snap clips.

What Mcmopar said. Simple job, you will lose about 4 qts of fluid but if prepared can reuse it.

I cheaped out and used the 1/2" compression tee... but if I had to do it again, would save the $$ for the line... come to think of it... how long is this line...does it go all the way to the flex line on the heat exchanger?

I was looking at the Scheid site and they sell the compression tee on there. How much of a problem is it to use this compared with replacing the line? What kind of fitting is this? what material? and if so, where did you get it?

Using a compression tee is more work but less money. You still have remove the line to cut it.
Although most guys have good luck with the tees I don't like the idea of introducing any more potential leak spots.

so how much does the new hose with the t already in it for the temp sender run....

I have done the brass "T" thing for the temp sensor on 3 vehicles now. One of them gave me a little weeping of fluid, but just required me to tighten the compression nut a little tighter. That solved the problem. No problems with leaks after that.

My current truck has the brass T, and I did not need to remove the line. I did need to use one of those "compact" pipe cutters, but that was it.

If you go with the brass T, I just picked up a 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" brass compresion T from the hardware/plumbing supply. A little modification is required:

The 3rd leg or odd leg of the T, (the one that sticks off to the side) needs to be adapted to fit your sending unit.

After removing the compression nut, I tapped it to a 3/8 npt thread (pretty sure it was 3/8 npt, if not 3/8 then it was 1/4-just use the appropriate npt tap that fits in there, sorry been awhile). After threads are cut and T is cleaned, screw in an adapter bushing to bring it down to the size of the sending unit. Like a 3/8 to 1/8 bushing adapter is what was needed on mine.

This adapter lets you adjust the depth of the sensor probe. You don't want an 1/8 plug sticking in the middle of the path of fluid flow creating a restriction, so this way you adjust how deep it is in the fluid flow (the tip of the sensor is just flush with the fluid flow or a hair in). Hopefully that makes sense. I then solder (sweat) the bushing in place. Braizing would be better, but no problems on all 3 that I have done with solder.

Just make sure you hold that newly installed bushing with a wrench when you tighten the sending unit so you don't break the solder joint (I doubt that it will be a problem anyways).

If I remember correctly, I did need to drill or make the hole larger before I tapped it. This works to an advantage. It allows you to "enlargen" or make the area inside of the "T" a little bigger, to help eliminate restriction of fluid flow if the temp probe is a little to deep. Just take a look inside when you are getting ready to drill and you will see what I mean.

To me, it was no problem using this method, but, it all depends on your comfort level/ability. If in doubt, pick up the ready made line. Kevin

The replacement line was priced out to me at $127.00 when I called the Dodge parts department.....

The concern I have with not using the full screw-in line is that you end up keeping the plastic insert hold-in for both ends of the line. If you plan on keeping the trrans temps at reasonable levels by watching the gauge then the need for changing out the meltable plastic inserts is moot.

If you do decide to use the screw-in line you must also get the correct female NPT fittings for both the trans and the heat exchanger. I went a step further on mine and replaced the backflow valve in the flex section below the heat exchanger with an open hose assembly. I took the flex section from the new line down to a local big truck shop that has a hydraulic line fab shop and got them to reproduce the exact length and fittings so it would fit properly.

Just be prepared to cuss a little if you plan on changing the line - getting the trans end lined up and started into the fitting was a female dog in heat.

I used a 3/4npt Tee with two 3/4npt-1/2compressions the Autometer gauge came with all the fittings to thread into the other 3/4npt end of the Tee. Found a straight spot in the line prior to the heat exchanger and cut out the section of line with a small pipe cutter. 1/2 hout job and works like a charm ;) The nice thing about the 3/4npt Tee is its the perfect size to allow fluid to flow all around the sender. I used SS instead of brass because its a little less bulky and looks nicer and the compressions I used were Swedgelock so I know they wont leak ;)

No kidding. That was the hardest part of the whole install. I like the trans line because it's a very clean install. Looks factory. Plus, if you ever sell the truck, you can plug the line up and the next owner will think it's a factory line.

If using the compression method: is it better to use a brass (ferrule) in the fitting than a nylon fitting? I would assume the brass fiting would provide better heat resistance?

The word ferrule escaped me as i was originally typing.....

By bushing I assume you mean ferrule, the ring that slips around the pipe.
I would use brass.

For those who are going to use the new line method and are installing it on a 97 and later model truck remember to remove the check ball. There is a check valve already in the heat exchanger and introducing another one will restrict too much fluid flow.