harleydog

I have a 97 4x4 2500 ctd that wouldn't start every now and then.....have to crank several times and acted like no fuel. So I changed the lift pump thinking this would fix, but nope. Next changed out fuel return hose, showed some signs of dryrot but still didn't fix problem. Just checked fuel overflow valve and it looked ok. Also set valves with the help of this thread using the crossover method. I guess next step is to check fuel solenoid and relay but not sure where to look. Truck has 96k miles and runs great, had someone put a cam plate and remove silencer ring when I first picked it up but otherwise stock. This thread rocks with info...thx guys. 8)

BIG&BAD

does it crank alot or does it just tick

harleydog

It turns over fine, no problem with starter. If I park it facing up a hill and leave it for several hours it starts right up and dies after about 10 seconds. Then it takes several cranking attempts before it fires again and when it does it sputters for a few seconds before smoothing out. When it's parked level it doesn't have this problem, but occasionally it won't fire, even on level ground. It turns over but nada....after several cycles it fires right up normally which makes me think maybe a relay?

gofastman

Sounds like a fuel problem....loosing it prime to the pump....Letting the fuel syphone back to tank.... <br>When you crank it long enough it finally purges all the air or atleast enough to fire.... <br>I would be looking really close for a fuel leak.<br>I hope this helps. : :<br>Allen

Smokee

Yep, sounds like a fuel leak. I would be re-checking that rubber fuel section above the starter.<br>In addition, make sure that the water in fuel separator is fully seated.<br>george

boughtadodge

several years ago I had a guy bring an 95 in the shop with a similar problem and what it was was the shut of solonoid became week and would not turn on the fuel then when you would start cranking the engine the shakeing would let the solonoid eventually open the fuel. Next time it does it have some one hold the solonoid in the open position and see if it starts. If it does you found the problem. Matt

TBGH

There are 2 fuel lines to check. One is a 3/8 supply line and the other is a 5/16 return line. Both are a PITA to change.<br>Next check the fuel solenoid. Turn the ignition on but do not crank the starter. The solenoid is located near the rear of the injection pump. It has a black rubber boot on the bottom of it. Push up on the bottom of the boot. The solenoid should &quot;pull up&quot; and lock. If it doesn't either the solenoid is bad or the solenoid relay is bad.<br>You can check for &quot;pull up&quot; by bumping the starter. Did you change both of the fuel lines?<br>John

doodah

had the same problem 1 month ago, got great help from these guys here, turned out it was not my relay, it was not the solinoid either, it was not getting enough jiuce from the bateries. hafd plenty to turn over all day but not enough to lift fuel shutoff solinoid, cleaned conections and cleared it right up. I will pass on a little info i was taught,- try starting the first time normal, if no start, leave key in the on position, crawl under hood and lift the linkage in the shutoff solinoid by hand IT SHOULD STAY UP AFTER YOU LIFT IT! if not somethings wrong, if it stays up get back in and try starting. P.S. you might have to give your peddle a light push when you start it. - just a suggestion, I have to do this to mine 8)

Might want to check the fuel supply line from the preheat housing to the lift pump (big, thick short hose). Mine cracked internally. Also, bottom of the fuel preheater there is a strainer which screws on. There is rubber gasket on it, which could possibly allow an air leak. <br>There is also one more possible area of an air leak into fuel system. There is a connection on the fuel tank to the plastic fuel lines. It's a snap/lock connector, which I never had any problem with, but suppose the internal o-ring could deteriorate and leak. Last, the steel fuel lines themselves have been known to develop cracks, but pretty rare AFAIK.<br>Might want to check the banjo bolts on top the fuel filter too. If they've been messed with, could work loose - but being on pressure side of lift pump, you'd have a leak. Didn't get one of mine sealed when put a fuel pressure gauge on, and had similar symptoms to your (loss of prime). Thought I'd have fuel spraying all over, but didn't. Just a tiny little seepage. Just a thought...<br><br>Good luck,<br>-Scott

berner

One more thing to check is the electrical plug on the pre-heater. The element can suck air around the pins. Mine did. I could hear it when I shut down and had the hood open. The heater element is available from Cummins. DC will want to sell you the whole preheater assembly for 3 times the price.

[quote author=berner link=board=16;threadid=10054;start=0#97062 date=1043693574]<br>One more thing to check is the electrical plug on the pre-heater. The element can suck air around the pins. Mine did. I could hear it when I shut down and had the hood open. The heater element is available from Cummins. DC will want to sell you the whole preheater assembly for 3 times the price. <br>[/quote]<br>Thanks berner. Great tip! I'd never even thought of that, but it makes sense. Have to remember that one! Dealer couldn't even find a &quot;lift pump&quot; on the computer for my truck. Wouldn't even bother asking for a &quot;fuel preheat element&quot;... <br>Regards, <br>-Scott

harleydog

OK checked the fuel shutoff and it appears to be working correctly, with the key on I pulled up the lever and it locked into position and stayed, had someone start it and kill several times and lever functions correctly. I still think it's the culprit cuz every now and then when I go to start it, it acts like a gas engine does with the kill switch on....turns over fine but no sign of coming to life. It only does this a few times a week so I'll have to check it out next time it acts up.