TWT

WARNING LONG POST! Lol

Well guys, I'm having several problems with my ole girl... Usually I can pin point a problem & get it fixed, but I'm having a hard time fixing my current problems.

1. 2 years ago I took my truck to a shop for the first time(will be my last time too) to get 3 injectors replaced.
4 of them leaked, but I was able to tighten 3 of them & they stopped. Now the #2 injector started leaking again. & my #1 injector has leaked the whole time, but I can't get to it to tighten. Any advise? Any good way to get to #1 injector?

2. Diesel is leaking somewhere around the fuel filter housing. I was thinking about doing the fuel heater delete, but I'm not sure if that's my problem because it's wet with diesel above the fuel filter housing. The banjo bolt above with bleeder is tight. What do y'all think?

3. I have a leak at the front of my motor. Possibly timing cover but not sure. It looks like oil is leaking from somewhere behind or around harmonic balancer. No I haven't done KDP fix yet. However I did check some of the 10mm bolts on cover & somewhere really loose. Not sure if it will still leak since I've tightened them, will let y'all know if it fixed it. At idle, if say it leaks one drop per minute. My parking spot at apartment a is angled down hill & it leaks a lot over night. Any suggestions?

4. A week ago one of my rear inner dual drive side tires blew out & the whole tread just pealed off like a bandaid, & ever since then my driver side brake & reverse light don't work. Just the driver side brake & reverse were the only ones affected. Every other light still works as it should. I'm positive it's a wiring issue, guess is the tread ripped the wires out. Does anyone know how the wiring is to the tail lights?

Sorry for such a long post guys. Just really wanting to get all this stuff fixed. Thanks in advance for any help!!

spanishvarlot

Hey! Have you fixed your truck yet? What's with the mechanics that you don't want them to take a look at your car? You don't know everything about it so, it's ok to ask help from them at times. I know nothing about cars but when I notice something different, I have it checked immediately.

Nughuffer

1. crow foot socket or pull the first 3 injector lines to get to the injector hold down nut. You'll have to bleed the injectors after

2. Its probably the fuel heater and/or the O-ring. Replace o-ring and tighten up heater & see if it stops. Get the delete nipple

3. Front seal. Replace it & tab the KDP or back your truck into the spot to stop the oil from pooling on the seal.

4. Look at the wiring. Is it ripped out? Check the bulbs inside the housing to see if they are blown.

Hate to say it but you might be better off taking it to a repair shop to avoid creating more problems than you already have.

thrashingcows

Well the injectors...I would pop them out, make the homemade injector puller that is in the sticky, and replace the copper washers. My guess is that they did not install new copper washers...tried to cheap out and re-use the old ones.

The leaking fuel around the heater would more then likely be the rubber gasket/O-ring above the fuel heater. Remove the spigot that the fuel filter threads onto. You will find a notch in it, use a small piece of plate, or a vary large screw driver, or even and old wide head key, to spin it out. Once out replace the gasket. You can buy new ones through Geno's.

The leak at the front of the motor is most likely your crank seal. You need to remove the harmonic balancer, fan and hub, rad and hoses etc. And get the timing cover off. Then do your KDP, and re-tighten all your case bolts. Install a new crank seal in the timing case cover and re-assemble.

As for the wiring. Just crawl under there and see what the damage is. Chances are you will have to re-attach some wires to get things back up and working.

sooty

you also need a real long extension for the filter perch, maybe a head light, did mine from under the truck, for the leak, look over the pass fender just under the fan support pulley, if its leaking "above the crank seal" from the timing cover against the block, careful to put attention to the kdp, covers loosening up.

BearKiller

Many of the 1991.5 and later fuel-heater studs are hex bore and require a large Allen wrench for removal, instead of having the two slots.

As best I can recollect, the heater delete stud on my F350 is also hex bore.

When I removed the original slotted heater stud from my 1989 engine, I ground an old chisel into a heavy-duty hollow-ground screw-driver shape. The chisel had a hex-shaped shank that fit one of my ratcheting box-end wrenches.

I have since used my home-made tool on several heater studs.

Montana2x2

My 91.5 has the slotted fuel heater stud, I used 2 metric jam nuts to remove mine, no way it was coming out using the slot.

mknittle

These engines are very simple. as are the rest of these trucks. The purpose of message boards like this are to help others that have problems. NOT to say "take it to a mechanic"
Apparently you think because YOU know nothing about cars nobody else does that doesn't work on them for a living.

j_martin

When I first bought my first gen, I had to deal with some very serious mechanical issues, like wheel bearings tight enough to burn, wrong shocks, wiring errors, wrong brake parts, etc. Along with the truck I got all the maintenance history proving that a highly paid "mechanic" put most of the faults in the truck.

Most of the serious brake and wheel faults were introduced looking for a noise that turned out to be in the hub caps.

So we help each other out around here. Welcome if you wish to join the fray.

TWT

Exactly!! You took the words right out of my mouth!
I don't know EVERYTHING about my truck, yet. Lol. But if I'm having a problem with something I'm not familiar with, I do all I can do to find a solution. A mechanic is my absolute last resort. I bought my truck when I was 16 years old, about 3 years ago, & it's only been to a mechanic once. I have 2 daughters, 6 months old & 3 years old, my wife & myself. My truck is not only our DD, it's our only vehicle. I would have to have a lot of trust in a mechanic to fix my truck correctly, & not be on the side of the road with my family the next week wondering what he "fixed". Just my opinion..

thrashingcows

Good for you!

This is one of the main reason I drive older stuff...and fix it myself. Why pay someone to screw up my stuff...I'm more then qualified to do it myself!

I don't know how many threads I've read about people who are trying to fix their vehicle after some "mechanic" supposedly repaired it first.

NJTman

I have no idea what you're talking about

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BearKiller

Of course, it is not written in stone that you have to use the factory fuel-filter.

Walmart, of all places, has an excellent remote-mount fuel-filter bracket, complete with a water-separating spin-on filter, that sells for less money than a heater-delete stud; these are hanging in the fishing/boating section.

I can vouch for the Walmart units, as I have several in service on various trucks, tractors, and such; Fleetguard makes replacement spin-on cartridges for them.

Of course, you will have to plumb this with GATES hose, either by cutting the factory metal line in a handy place and clamping the hose over it, or by doing things right and installing 06JIC/06AN fittings at both the pump outlet(14MMx1.5) and VE inlet(12MMx1.5)