dzl_damon

Yes, sounding like ignition switch. Notice how you're gauges go flat when you shut the truck off? If the ignition switch is not giving power to the gauges, they go on and off. If it was only the gauges, I would assume a fuse, but since you have no start situations as well, it's either the fusible links TO the ignition switch, the ignition switch, or grounds (like Wannadiesel said). But since you slapped the column and it worked I'm going to definately say switch.

You'll need some tamper proof torx bits. I just got a set for $10 at the local cheap tool store. They are just torx bits with holed drilled in the ends. Good luck

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-'93 W350, auto, DRW, cc, 203k. Screw maxed, DDP III's, DennyT, boost/pyro, Borgeson, timing 3/16", 4" DP to a black muffler stack with flapper, dual batts, maxi fuses, PS I/C, Cooler Tubz, HE351CW,
To do:new carpets, 366GSK, NV4500/divorced NP205 swap.
-'89 D250, auto, 76k, utility bed, very clean. Fuel screw 1.5 turns, fuel cone to deep side, 2,000hr military IP.
-'09 VW Jetta TDI, 28k miles, avg 46mpg
-'64 Ford Falcon Futura, 302 awaiting T5.

beater

Yeah I did notice the gauges going flat, I also notice my alternator gauge was bouncing around lol. I'm heading to get torx bits tomorrow to get this done. I also got a question about my brakes: The brakes pump up after about 8 pumps then you turn the truck on and they go slowly to the floor, I can pump them up while the truck is running but the pedal immediately goes slowly to the floor, no leaks anywhere that I can find. Does this sound like a master cylinder being bad?

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91.5 D250, stock,flatbed,auto,235+k miles<SOLD

dzl_damon

If you have not bled ALL the brake lines first, maybe master cylinder. A lot of people forget to bleed the Rear Wheel Anti- Lock (RWAL) on the frame rail on the driver side. You go that right? If you are sure everything is bled out, then it's probably a master. My dually needs one I think. I hit the brakes real quick and its ALL THERE, but I hold it and it fades away.

beater

I havent touch the brakes at all, It was doing this when I bought the truck thats why I was thinking either air in brakelines or mastercylinder. The anti-lock light goes out when you pump the brakes while the truck is running

TIMMY22

I replace those security torx screws with plain jane Philips head screws from the hardware store when I take them out.

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96 2500 4x4 Auto, No payments, No silencer ring, KDP barrier installed, Thuren Bar, 4" Strait Piped, Star wheel tweaked, Air Ride Rear, ~177K

92 D250 LE 4x2 5 speed, No payments, No Muffler, No rust, Locktite on Killer Bolts plus KDP, EGT and Boost Gauges on A-Pillar, Fuel screw 1 turn, Smoke screw 2 turns, Timing bump, 366 Spring. 3.54's, ~155K

91 W250 Gas to Diesel Conversion, Auto 727, 3.07's non I/C, Custom Turbo back 4 in. exhaust, KDP killed, Body off Chassis restoration ~216K

dzl_damon

Making me think more it's the RWAL. It has a smaller bleeder than the wheel cylinders and the calipers. 5/16" wrench rather than a 3/8" usually.

Bleed this, then the driver wheel, then the passenger wheel. Preferably you start with the driver front, then passenger front, then do the rears like I just mentioned. Don't let the Master Cylinder go dry in the process, or you'll ahve to start all over. A 1 man bleeding system with the small tub and hose is worth the $5-10 investement as well, even if you have 2 people.

Benjamin b2

why would replace them with philips? but heck thanks thats handy to know, just advertise to the whole world your truck is easy as pie to steal.

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Pickup #1 1991 w250, 5spd, reg cab, now intercooled 3rd gen style, afc MIA, lucas POD's, timed to head, piston pump, he351 pushin 46 lbs of boost, 3" tubes,BHAF 2790, 4" exhaust from dp, summit regulator @ 16psi, pyrometer, flatbed, 320,000 miles

Pickup #2 1993 w250,stock turbo/injectors,BHAF cold air, auto, reg cab, billet conveter, steel planitaries, fuel screw cranked,366 spring, afc mia, pyrometer, timed to head, 5'' side pipe, 170,000 miles flatbed


"feelin lucky punk" clint eastwood

BearKiller

Because one might wish to fix the switch with the tools at hand, when the fancy tool might not be available.

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LESSONS I HAVE LEARNED

Even in a bone-stock truck, a FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE is the first gauge you should install.
Splice an in-line fuel-filter AHEAD of the lift-pump and carry a few spares.
Blue MOPAR Voltage-Regulator = P3690731

#1 MY TRUCK = 1985 F-350, W/1989 Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, Dana 70 3:55
#2 HER TRUCK = 1991.5 D-250, LE, I/C Cummins, auto
#3 SON'S TRUCK = 1990 W-250, Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, 3:54
#4 TRUCK = 1991 D-350, LE, Cummins, 5-sp. Getrag, 4:10