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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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05 NV5600 3:73-stock for now 95 NV4500 15.6@85-sold |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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That should get u close to 400 HP. I've never had a problem with surging out of the 62/65. You'll obviously need more pump mods to get to 550 with the 5x12 ie. DV's, racked barrels (benched pump). With tuned pump a 62/65 will run clean.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Ya I'm aware that other mods will b needed for sure but just trying to get these items worked out
so u don't think the 62/65/12 will b too hot for ratbagging and playing?
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I'd go with a 14 if it were me. I don't really see much use for a 12. I'm also not saying to not go with a 68 or 71 either. I've never tried a 68 but would have to think it's a good compromise of quick spool and decent flow.
My ideal twins setup for that ~550 range would be a 62/65/13 over an S471 w/ 1.10 housing. It should support that HP level with cool EGT's and very fast spool. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Go with 5x14's right off the bat. No need for pump mods for 550hp later down the road. I had a 64/71/0.80 (Super B Special), it was a fantastic turbo. Top gear, it would make 15 psi at 1600 rpm. Worked better than the 62/71 I had previous. Lent it to Lil Dog, he swapped it in place of his 62/65, says it drives much smoother, and no barking with it. Thats the direction I'd go again. No need for twins for 550hp with that turbo, if thats direction you want to go.
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'98 3500 4x2 Quad Cab, 24v, 5 spd, 3.55s, CDS 13mm, SDX 7x.012 Injectors, Single S480, Big Stick Cam, FASS, BD Short Shifter, SBC DD, Fluidampr Alcoa Magnums, GM Brake Cylinders, HID Headlights, DSS '98 2500 4x4 Reg Cab, 12v, 6 spd, 3.55s, 0 plate, 4k GSK, 18° Timing, SBC DD, F1 370's, GT37R/GTX42R Twins, Fluidampr Alcoa H2's, Lorado Tonneau Cover, HID Headlights, Espar D5, EMS Hub Conversion |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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would 5x14 equal a 120 hp stick and 5x12 90hp? My only thot on a 64/71 is driving in town with a stick shift, 3.55 gears and 35s on top of that. Would I hafta run a lotta fuel to keep that 64 happy or can it b run around 400 hp for the time being? reason y I ask is cause to run 550hp I would need a dual disc clutch and upgraded input shaft and that won't b for a while, mostly cause all funds are going into injectors and turbo.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Other than 35's, thats what my combo was. Like I said, that 64/71 is a magical turbo. 5x14's are usually referred to as a 140hp injector. You can back the plate off to put the fuel where you need it. Do the clutch first. If you're in aftermarket injector territory, you're in new clutch territory. I killed my stock clutch with just a 10 plate.
With the stock turbo and 5x14's, I did 330hp. 62mm turbo, 440hp. With my twins, its 520hp. Only thing that changed was the turbos, and I bumped the timing after I did the head. The last dyno was on a no-load dyno the dragging the brakes to get the turbos going. If it was on the same dyno as the first couple runs, I'm sure it would have been mid 500's. There is a myth that you need X amount of fuel to make a turbo drivable. You need fuel to take full advantage of it. Driving around with the plate full rearward or full forward, you won't notice a difference until you give it some throttle. 64/71 daily drives very well. The 66/73 I had was a different story. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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And in my experience going from stock size tires to 35's, what I have now and ususally run, makes a big difference. It doesn't seem like it would but it's a lot more rolling resistance. Takes more to get the trubo going.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Tate u sound like a go big or go home guy lol
I like the sounds of that....definitely leaves me room to grow for sure. 95ram I'm a bit confused u like or don't like the 35s? I'm looking for tires right now anyways and am torn between the looks of the 35s or raising the gears a bit with like a 285.....
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I run 285/70R17's, so they are the same as a 33. I run 235/85R16's in the winter time. Other than being harder to run the steering wheel with the 285's, I really don't notice much difference.
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#11 |
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The Guru
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We have had good luck running 7 hole nozzles. Ran both the 7X10's and 7X13's on a slightly tweaked 160HP pump 20 deg's of timing, (4gsk, plate removed, afc adjusted for more down low fueling, barrells racked). The 7X10's was set at 290 bar and the 7X13's was 300 bar. The 10's hazed at idle more than the 13's, but was more to the lower pop pressure. Both 7 holes were less smokey than the SAC 5X12's or 5X14's. Hard to beat the pricing on the sac nozzles.
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-white 02 sport QC, SB, 3/4 4X4 SDX 7X10's 300 bar, Stock HX-35 water/meth -black 2010 3500 Laramie CCSB, H&S Blackmaxx/overdrive, passenger airhorn, home made 4in exhaust |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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how were those 7 hole injectors up top? iv heard that the 5s fuel harder up top (higher rpms) whereas the 7s have a bit more low end. not sure on how valid that is, but hard to beat the price on the 5 hole sdx's.....
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#13 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,527
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Quote:
The reason is related to how diesel fuel combusts, and the effect of flow vs mixing. At low rpm, mixing is poor and you need better atomization. At high rpm, there is so much chaos in the cylinder that does the mixing for you, and you need the big flow to minimize the number of crank angle degrees it takes to spray in the fuel. JH
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Justin Mechanical Development Senior Engineer, Cummins Heavy Duty Engineering ** Opinions expressed are mine alone, and NOT the official position of Cummins, Inc., or any affiliate or subsidiary.** |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I love my 35's I run them on all my pickups. I like the looks and they give me the ground clearance I need in the the winter. The problem is the do effect you bottom end power. 285's are a good choice too. I may have to go back to 285's on my next go round.
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#15 |
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Registered User
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just gotta make more power so u can turn them like a 285!
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