BILTIT

http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/ininseki12v.html

bobva

TO relife old copper gaskets place the on a red hot surface till red ( hot plate ) let cool they'll look like new clean copper and be as good as new.

BearKiller

Okay, I understand the non-I/C 9mm injectors require different washers than the 7mm I/C; also, I see them in various thicknesses; what is the stock thickness of the 9mm washers ??

What are the pros and cons of using any of the thinner washers ??




Can I experiment with an old dirty 1960s penny to practice this process before I melt my washers ??

What if I lay them on a stove-burner element, the old-timey coiled style --- not the cheapy slick-top kind, or would it cause hot-spots to burn through my stove element ??

Many thanks for the idea.

bobva

It was a tech at http://www.hhdiesel.com/ that told and showed me this trick.

yes old school stove top.

they use a hotplate like http://www.target.com/p/imusa-electr...QzsRoCn1_w_wcB

thrashingcows

I have a few injectors on my 93 motor that need new copper washers. I did buy that kit off E-bay with the 3 sets of 6 washers in different thicknesses. I planned on mic'ing the ones I removed and use the one set that was closest.

What is the stock thickness on a 9mm...I don't know. But from what I've read putting thicker, or thinner washers in can make a difference in how much the truck smokes.

BearKiller

What part of the injector makes it either a 9- or 7mm ??

Does anyone have a non-I/C 9mm washer that they can take some measurements on; O.D., I.D., and thickness ??


It seems that everyone has kits for the 7mm 1991.5 and up and nobody has them for the non-I/C 9mm.

I am for sure going to try bobva's trick on the old washers, but the "always be prepared" in me likes to also have a few escape routes.

Thanks.

bobva

Nozzle Dia


You can take a set of 9mm to a lathe and turn them down to 7mm

Or you can buy these http://www.pdrdiesel.com/shop/produc...ers-523-6.html BUT whats the washer thickness?

KRB

I find it odd that with all the knowledge on this board that there's no info on the stock washer thickness. Seems like that would be common and available...

BearKiller

Of course it is untelling how long my washers have been seeping and it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects on the running of the engine.

However, now that I know they are leaking, I have been on this crusade to learn more about the situation and have searched numerous sources for replacement non-I/C washers.

Everyone has the 7mm I/C washer kits and nobody has the 9mms.

Even places that have the 9mm injectors do not have the washers to fit them.

Maybe I am looking under the wrong rocks; where I live, there is a copperhead under every rock, but no 9mm copper washers.

I know I can do bobva's heat trick, but what if I flip one into oblivion and it falls down the well or somewhere; a magnet on a string ain't gonna help with copper....

KRB

Have you tried a Cummins dealer?

thrashingcows

I will go dig out one of my old 9mm injectors. Maybe the copper washers are still on one of them. If I can find one, I will measure it and post up the dimensions.

BearKiller

That will be appreciated; please don't take one out of an engine on my account.

Thanks.

j_martin

Seems to me they run .030", .060", or .090" Anyway, here's the whole kit with all 3 thickness washers on flea bay. 190881170079

And here's the 9mm - 7mm conversion sleeves. 190976255187

nascar mark

Different engine cpl's have different sealing washer thickness from the factory.
The inner circle/hole for the old style 9mm injs, do require the old style 9mm copper sealing washers or carefully drill out the new style 7mm copper sealing washers out of the inj install kits.

As far as the pro's and con's of different thickness of sealing washers is:

Pro's:
Spray pattern circumference vs timing changes with different thicknesses of sealing washers.
The thinner the washer is, the better it is suited for adv timing and heavier fuelled engines, as it moves the nozzle slightly deeper into the cyl. Thus allowing the spray pattern to tighten up some vs where the inj timing and piston position is.

Think of it this way. With more fuel (most of us seem to in hence our engines lol) we benefit by advancing the inj timing, which injects the fuel towards the piston bowl sooner, so as to allow a possible longer burn time. If you inject sooner by having adv timing or you change the spray pattern by using a larger spray diameter nozzle, (example 155deg nozzle vs the stock 145deg nozzle), than you will want to tighten the spray angle/circumference at time of injection vs piston bowl position, to make sure you are spraying the fuel into the bowl, not outside the bowl or risk possible piston wash. By lowering the nozzle deeper into the cyl, you help achieve a better burn in most cases.

So we tend to use the thinner sealing washers, even with a stock inj, if we adv timing and or add more fuel by larger ink's or inj pump mods.

Con's : None that I can think of

thrashingcows

OK I found one...or I should say I was able to get one loose from the injector. Those suckers are darn near welded on!

Remember these were installed and crushed for sealing....but it appears that the thickness was originally .060". OD is an average of .630 +/- .003. And the ID is an average of .375" +/- .002.