patdaly

If the Jegs unit is a proportioning valve, you want it in the rear circuit, otherwise your brakes will really suck as the front would be reduced...........

bannerd

I ordered the jegs valve tonight. My back is killing me where the old valve is located on the frame. Time to move it to the firewall. Mc ordered, hoping this will fix it.

Angry Johnny

On passenger type vehicles, including pickup trucks, 70% of the braking is on the front axle. You want the fronts to lockup first otherwise you'll be doing loopty loops on a slippery road. The proportioning valve is straight through to the front brakes and only limits the pressure to the rears so they don't lockup first.

The exception to this is heavy trucks like semi tractors where most of the braking is on the rears because that is where the weight is and where all the rubber is.

bannerd

So the P-valve needs to go to the rear I would imagine? Then if I'm hauling a load, adjust the braking to be more towards the rear? I picked up two so I can offset the load and get a good feel for how the truck stops.

Angry Johnny

That would work. The RWAL is only a safety feature and not meant to take the place of the proportioning valve.

I have found though that most master cylinders already have a bias to the front brakes, especially aftermarket aluminum ones. You may or may not need the valve at all.

patdaly

They reduce the flow, not enhance, so all you can do is back off the rear brake application. Most will adjust between 100 percent down to 20-30 percent. Obviously the heavier the load, the more you want it backed off ( unscrewed )

Most people find a place they are happy with ( rears don't LU too fast ) and that's where they leave it.

Don't put one in the front circuit........... all you want is one of them.

bannerd

Hmm, is there a trick to this? New bendix MC installed and p-valve. Pedal still goes to the floor. What is odd is I can feel it build pressure and if I leave it alone.. it goes right to the floor. Two bottles of dot3 .. I would imagine the air is gone? Wife hates me now because she doesn't like to pump it up

Angry Johnny

Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it on the truck?

bannerd

Yup, bench bled it. I get some resistance but I can still push it to the floor. If I push it half way and pump from there to the floor it builds pressure. Soon as I let it out.. she goes right back to the floor.

Is there a machine I should buy? I'm fed up!

bannerd

So, if I clamp the rubber brake lines.. pedal is rock hard. Do you think my bendix calipers are no good?

I took one off and started to pump the brakes and the piston starting to come out very very slow.. after several pumps. I've never heard of brakes being such a hard job. I might take it to a shop, this is getting crazy.

I can hear the rear brakes working great... I believe I've isolated it to the front. Maybe there is a large air bubble in the calipers where the piston is.

Angry Johnny

yes, sounds like air. Did you put the calipers on the wrong sides? Bleeder screw points up?

bannerd

Bleeder points toward the rear. But is on top.

j_martin

What it is is slack in the system somewhere. Sometimes it's air, but it could be several other things.

Rear brakes. Too much clearance. If the pedal comes up considerably when you set the e-brake, that would be an indication. It should come up slightly.

Front brakes, also too much clearance. You should hear the pads lightly rubbing on the caliper when you rotate the wheel. If the sound moves from side to side, or the pads only touch in a couple of places, you have a warped rotor, which will back off the pads and increase the pedal.

If the bore on a caliper is crusty, the seal may roll instead of slide, and that will make the caliper back off too much, resulting in excess pedal play.

Soft parts, pads, shoe linings, or hoses could cause a mushy pedal.

Last, but not least, is the rod between the booster and the MC. If you measure the depth of the MC bore, and subtract the height of the shoulder that goes into the booster, you'll get a number, likely about 1.200".
The rod should project from the booster a few thou less than that.

hope it helps

patdaly

Did you put new rubber lines on the front?

The calipers coming out slow only indicates the volume of fluid coming in is less than normal, either by an air bubble, or a restriction.

One other possibility, have your wife push hard on the pedal while you have the hose with your hand wrapped around it, some expansion is normal, ( very little, actually just feels like it gets hard ), but if it expands to where you can physically feel your fingers moving, the line could be ready to go.

bannerd

Yes sir, everything on the truck is new. I'm thinking this might be my problem

http://www.performanceonline.com/blo...ench-bleeding/

I might have air in the caliper, the more I look at it.. the more I can see how that might cause it.

This morning when I came out and cracked the bleeder nipple.. more large bubbles of air. The pedal is firm but I can still push it to the floor.