Junking the ABS system?
#77
Registered User
They are standard fittings, and any auto parts store should have them. Places like Imperial Supply, and McMaster would have them also. Between the descriptions and pictures, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Even though both tubes are 3/16" in size, they use different nuts. For some reason in automotive there are 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16" sized nuts all bored for 3/16". I think it's to keep the temporary help from putting things together wrong.
#79
Registered User
I am junking mine. It is downright dangerous! If a wheel locks it completely releases the rear brakes then re locks and releases. Not pulsates or shutters but several feet!
Also the "thing" causes severe front brake wear with no almost no wear on the rear shoes.
This is the only vehicle have had with anti lock so I feel fine about removing it.
Also the "thing" causes severe front brake wear with no almost no wear on the rear shoes.
This is the only vehicle have had with anti lock so I feel fine about removing it.
#80
Registered User
I had a 1995 Ram 2500 CTD with RWAL brakes and they were basically worthless. At best, full panic stop on slick roads, they would "hit" 3 times and either lock or stop working entirely. The pulse was very slow compared to my 1997 Jeep Cherokee with ABS. The "fatal" flaw with RWAL is that you still have to pump the brakes in slippery conditions to keep the front brakes from locking. Pumping the brakes "confuses" the RWAL module and causes it to malfunction. Pumping the brakes would cause my brakes to either lock completely for several seconds or the pedal to not move and the brakes to quit working entirely for a second or two. A second or two is an eternity when you're sliding into oncoming traffic.
Read the owner's manual on ANY vehicle with ABS and it will tell you NOT to pump the brakes but to apply steady pressure. The theory of operation behind ABS basically dooms a split system like RWAL to failure and mediocrity.
Read the owner's manual on ANY vehicle with ABS and it will tell you NOT to pump the brakes but to apply steady pressure. The theory of operation behind ABS basically dooms a split system like RWAL to failure and mediocrity.
Last edited by MrFusion; 04-29-2014 at 11:24 PM. Reason: oops
#81
Registered User
I had a 1995 Ram 2500 CTD with RWAL brakes and they were basically worthless. At best, full panic stop on slick roads, they would "hit" 3 times and either lock or stop working entirely. The pulse was very slow compared to my 1997 Jeep Cherokee with ABS. The "fatal" flaw with RWAL is that you still have to pump the brakes in slippery conditions to keep the front brakes from locking. Pumping the brakes "confuses" the RWAL module and causes it to malfunction. Pumping the brakes would cause my brakes to either lock completely for several seconds or the pedal to not move and the brakes to quit working entirely for a second or two. A second or two is an eternity when you're sliding into oncoming traffic.
Read the owner's manual on ANY vehicle with ABS and it will tell you NOT to pump the brakes but to apply steady pressure. The theory of operation behind ABS basically dooms a split system like RWAL to failure and mediocrity.
Read the owner's manual on ANY vehicle with ABS and it will tell you NOT to pump the brakes but to apply steady pressure. The theory of operation behind ABS basically dooms a split system like RWAL to failure and mediocrity.
#82
Registered User
IIRC they might have pulsed 2-3 times per second as opposed to the Jeep that pulsed 20 times per second on all 4 wheels. That's a BIG difference at any speed. I disconnected the ABS wiring harness on the '95 Ram and was happier with the braking though it was never very good. Ceramic front pads helped more than I would've thought.
#83
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Austin, TX
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I Just deleted mine. I Needed predictability, and pedal. Got both.
I went to NAPA and browsed their brass section. picked out:
Brass Inverted Flare 90° Male Elbow 3/16 Tube X 1/8" Npt.
Brass Inverted Flare 90° Male Elbow 5/16 Tube X 1/8" Npt.
Brass 1/8" Npt coupling
Screw them together. Take out the RWAL valve. Screw the brake lines into the home made delete adapter. Bleed the rear brakes. (I'd do the driver's side first judging from the line layout.)
Tape up the connector or block it off with a dummy, either from the valve, or from the tail light wiring of almost any dodge pickup of that era.
Disconnect the controller behind the glove box, and yer done.
I went to NAPA and browsed their brass section. picked out:
Brass Inverted Flare 90° Male Elbow 3/16 Tube X 1/8" Npt.
Brass Inverted Flare 90° Male Elbow 5/16 Tube X 1/8" Npt.
Brass 1/8" Npt coupling
Screw them together. Take out the RWAL valve. Screw the brake lines into the home made delete adapter. Bleed the rear brakes. (I'd do the driver's side first judging from the line layout.)
Tape up the connector or block it off with a dummy, either from the valve, or from the tail light wiring of almost any dodge pickup of that era.
Disconnect the controller behind the glove box, and yer done.
#84
Registered User
Open the glove box and look up by the latch there are two catches one on each side of the latch. push downward on the catches to open the box and you will see the plug and black box on top of the air conditioner
#85
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Thx mk, yeah I see it's just to make the abs light go off. It will be nice to have back brakes.
#86
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#87
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#88
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#90
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