wheelo90

I was wondering if it is possible to get rid of the ABS deal that is on the drivers side in the frame? I already know the effects without it, and I'm not too concerned, considering I have always drove vehicles without ABS.
I think I remember someone around here diconnecting it and running the brake lines around it, just need the steps/procedures.
Thanks!
Wheelo

Micaiahfied

i removed the whole system including the proportioning valve. i ran a new hard line through an adjustable PV and then straight to the rubber line above the rear axle. when i am empty i turn the rear brakes down, when i am loaded i turn them up. works great for me.

wheelo90

Could I remove the system and leave the old Proportioning Valve?
Where is the Valve at?
Thanks!
Wheelo

wannadiesel

Yes, the factory proportioning valve can stay. It's on the framerail under the driver's feet.

Ace

Wouldn't simply disconnecting the RWAL unit behind the glovebox accomplish pretty much the same thing?

wannadiesel

Not if the dump valve has failed. A bad dump valve will cause a mushy pedal that no amount of bleeding will fix.

stillsmokin

The early dodge ABS system is kind of a joke anyway, when it works it still don't work right. It is an RWAL system, it doesn't have a very advanced controller, and has mimimal inputs or outputs. As with all ABS systems the dodge system has a default base braking mode. You can unplug the connector to the small ABS controller under the dash behind the glovebox and the valve on the frame rail should go into the "release" position. This also shuts off the ANTI-LOCK light in the dash. I ended up pulling the valve off the frame rail as well this year when I replaced the lines. The brakes are now entirely old school and work great. If you remove the valve cut the electric connector off, pull the wires out and fill the holes with silicone, and put this finished plug on the end of the exposed harness to seal it from water. Water will be drawn through the wires over time if you dont do this and major electrical gremlins will show up. If you have soggy/dragging rear brakes the valve may be stuck in the "hold" position, and like wanna is talking about you'll have to pull it.

The proportioning valve will be fine just leave it be.

Begle1

Mine works just fine; it's saved me from a couple really bad accidents. The ability to partially control yourself during a skid, coupled with the stock sloppy brake pedal and pizza cutter tires, strikes me as invaluable.

wannadiesel

I'm happy with the ABS on mine, too. My rear brakes are quite aggressive and I am usually running empty, I've had it activate several times in the rain.

If your system works I wouldn't mess with it. If it doesn't work I'd put at least a little effort into trying to fix it before giving up and ripping it out.

wheelo90

I have tried bleeding the brakes around a million times, and never got any air. The peddle feels mushy and I doubt that I have much brakes on the rear, only on the front. I have adjusted them which dont help.
So I will jerk the ABS crap off over the weekend, and old school it.
Thanks everyone!
Wheelo

Micaiahfied

i agree if it works keep it. it's working flawlessly on my 92. i removed the factory PV because it kept popping the little pin out and cutting off the fluid to the front lines, i believe it was the front, anyways if it worked i would have kept it.

woodrat

interesting. I have pretty mushy brakes on mine, even after bleeding a couple of times, the abs and "brake" warning lights have been on forever, but they were twitching in and out for so long I finally stopped paying much attention to it.

Where is the abs valve located? What kind of attention could I give it to see if it is a problem or not? I'm not eager to rip out the abs system, but if I had a bunch of non-functioning and expensive parts in there, I would do it in a heart beat if it could mean a tight brake pedal again...

Micaiahfied

the dump valve is on the driver side frame rail above the axle. the abs control box is behind the glove box. i thought a few people a while back said they got a tighter pedal just flipping the box down and unplugging the controller. if nothing else that will get rid of the lights til you get it figured out.

Ace

Mine worked, but I did not like the way it worked. Prolly due to the early ABS implementation, but when it engaged one time the whole truck shuddered and it was just very disconcerrting. I think I'd have done better without the distraction it produced in my mind.

The the next day, the lights came on and I ran that to ground, including the factory TSB troubleshooting and never did fix it, assuming the one-time activation fried the RWAL controller, fortunately leaving the dump valve closed (brake pedal fine.)

Three months later, RWAL disconnected, lights out, brakes seem fine. I did re-connect it to see if anything changed a couple weeks ago, no go. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Charles C. Stan

ABS is invaluable even if it was an early modle. I would like to know if the unit can be up graded. maybe installing a later years model or a third party unit.