Hitch Install
#1
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Hitch Install
I need to set up my dodge with a hitch.
I know there are lots of threads about what types of hitches and .... but I was wondering what you have done to reinforce the rear sector of the frame to accept a hitch on the back of your trucks.
Do you weld in a section to the C-channel and make a box ?
Do you fabricate reinforcement plates that bolt in ?
Big washers ?
Extra steel bars with holes that mount onto the bolts through the hitch ?
or just bolt it in, as I'm sure most manufactures specify to.
Just curious to see what others have done to secure their hitch..... if anything.
TIA
I know there are lots of threads about what types of hitches and .... but I was wondering what you have done to reinforce the rear sector of the frame to accept a hitch on the back of your trucks.
Do you weld in a section to the C-channel and make a box ?
Do you fabricate reinforcement plates that bolt in ?
Big washers ?
Extra steel bars with holes that mount onto the bolts through the hitch ?
or just bolt it in, as I'm sure most manufactures specify to.
Just curious to see what others have done to secure their hitch..... if anything.
TIA
#4
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I bought a curt and bolted it right in. Welding to the frame is frowned on I think, especially with the stresses of a trailer bumping, pulling and pushing.
#5
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The hitch I put on my crew came with these plate washers
#6
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I'm not happy with the flexing & twisting of the hitch that came on my '92 D350. It looks like the center cross piece is seperate from the frame mounts and slides over stubs on the frame mounts. I have a couple of other frame mounts around but I think they are for older trucks. Does anyone know the frame width measurements on 70's through 90's trucks? It would help me in looking for a better alternative. Thanks, Packratc
#7
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The roads up here can get really rough and a few years back I nearly lost the hitch off the back of my truck. The hitch and the back of the frame got bent up. Got the frame straightened up and had a C channel welded in the rear part of the frame after the last bend. The class V hitch was then bolted on, but I made a strap with the nuts welded on it to slip into the now boxed frame.
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#8
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I'm not happy with the flexing & twisting of the hitch that came on my '92 D350. It looks like the center cross piece is seperate from the frame mounts and slides over stubs on the frame mounts. I have a couple of other frame mounts around but I think they are for older trucks. Does anyone know the frame width measurements on 70's through 90's trucks? It would help me in looking for a better alternative. Thanks, Packratc
#9
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What type hitch are you going to install? Class-IV or Class-V?
I have a Draw-Tite Class-V on mine and it has protected my truck well, it is also bolted to the frame.
The torque tube is welded to the side pieces, some I have seen are only bolted together.
The steel of the hitch is actually much heavier that the frame rails as are the backup plates and Grade-8 bolts.
A few years ago I was rear ended on the freeway by TWO Nissan/ Toyota trucks, I stopped them from 70-MPH to a dead stop doing only rather minor damage to my truck but totaling both of theirs.
The impact shifted my frame rails 3mm which was easily pulled back.
The rear of my truck is also protected with 8-ton military pintle hitch mounted on a solid steel 6" drop hitch.
I have seen many full size trucks primarily Chevy's driving around with rear end damage with the hitch being bent downward and all twisted like a pretzel
If you are going to use the hitch in an equalizing mode it needs to be strong because up to 1200 lbs of tounge weight needs to be loaded into your frame.
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/default.aspx
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/pro...D=1055+&part=0
Like everything else there seems to be some hitches made of a cheaper quality to the unsuspecting public.
Jim
I have a Draw-Tite Class-V on mine and it has protected my truck well, it is also bolted to the frame.
The torque tube is welded to the side pieces, some I have seen are only bolted together.
The steel of the hitch is actually much heavier that the frame rails as are the backup plates and Grade-8 bolts.
A few years ago I was rear ended on the freeway by TWO Nissan/ Toyota trucks, I stopped them from 70-MPH to a dead stop doing only rather minor damage to my truck but totaling both of theirs.
The impact shifted my frame rails 3mm which was easily pulled back.
The rear of my truck is also protected with 8-ton military pintle hitch mounted on a solid steel 6" drop hitch.
I have seen many full size trucks primarily Chevy's driving around with rear end damage with the hitch being bent downward and all twisted like a pretzel
If you are going to use the hitch in an equalizing mode it needs to be strong because up to 1200 lbs of tounge weight needs to be loaded into your frame.
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/default.aspx
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/pro...D=1055+&part=0
Like everything else there seems to be some hitches made of a cheaper quality to the unsuspecting public.
Jim
#10
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My thoughts were:
#41902
Class V: 2" Receiver
Draw-Tite offers the Class V 2 Receiver for full-size, long wheel base trucks, vans and utility vehicles. Designed for marine and commercial applications, these receivers are intended for use with vehicles that incorporate full frames and heavy-duty suspensions. All-frame attachment and a robust, heavy duty side bracket design ensure that this Class V 2 receiver is able to handle the toughest treatment you can dish out. The solid all-welded construction delivers maximum strength; Computer-Aided Design (CAD), unique to each manufacturer & model year, ensures perfect fit and top towing performance. Every Class V 2 Receiver features Draw-Tites E-Coat base with black powder coat finish for an attractive finish and lasting corrosion resistance.
The Draw-Tite Class V 2 receiver is rated up to 15,000 lbs. Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) Weight Carrying (WC) capacity and up to 16,000 lbs. Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) with Weight Distributing (WD) installation. 2 square receiver tube opening. Backed by the Draw-Tite nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
Ultra Frame Receiver
Thanks for all the good info, BTW.
T.
#41902
Class V: 2" Receiver
Draw-Tite offers the Class V 2 Receiver for full-size, long wheel base trucks, vans and utility vehicles. Designed for marine and commercial applications, these receivers are intended for use with vehicles that incorporate full frames and heavy-duty suspensions. All-frame attachment and a robust, heavy duty side bracket design ensure that this Class V 2 receiver is able to handle the toughest treatment you can dish out. The solid all-welded construction delivers maximum strength; Computer-Aided Design (CAD), unique to each manufacturer & model year, ensures perfect fit and top towing performance. Every Class V 2 Receiver features Draw-Tites E-Coat base with black powder coat finish for an attractive finish and lasting corrosion resistance.
The Draw-Tite Class V 2 receiver is rated up to 15,000 lbs. Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) Weight Carrying (WC) capacity and up to 16,000 lbs. Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) with Weight Distributing (WD) installation. 2 square receiver tube opening. Backed by the Draw-Tite nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
Ultra Frame Receiver
- Designed for Full-Size Long Wheel Base Trucks, Vans and Utility Vehicles with Full Frames and Heavy-Duty Suspensions
- Ideal for Marine and Commercial Use
- Strong, Secure Heavy Duty Side Bracket Design
- All Frame Attachment
- 2" Square Receiver Tube Opening
- E-Coat Base w/ Black Powder Coat Finish
- Rated up to 15,000 lbs. (GTW) Weight Carrying (WC)
- Rated up to 16,000 lbs. (GTW) with Weight Distributing (WD)
- Solid All-Welded Construction for Maximum Strength and Safety
- Custom Built According to Manufacturer & Model Year
- Ensures Perfect Fit and Top Towing Performance
- Computer-Aided Design and Fatigue Stress Testing
- Designed to Withstand Road Abuse Within Specified Capacities
- Backed by a Nationwide Limited Lifetime Warranty
Thanks for all the good info, BTW.
T.
#11
Administrator
Although it really hurts your shins when you run into my hitch, I usually leave my pintle open when I drive around town, it does a lot of destruction to the front of cars that park too close or like to tailgate, it also keeps my shiny bumper from getting scratched.
Jim
Jim
#12
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Thanks for the frame width photo. Anwered my question perfectly. My present hitch is one of those that is mentioned as the torque tube being bolted to the mount. Thanks again, Packratc
#13
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What type hitch are you going to install? Class-IV or Class-V?
I have a Draw-Tite Class-V on mine and it has protected my truck well, it is also bolted to the frame.
The torque tube is welded to the side pieces, some I have seen are only bolted together.
The steel of the hitch is actually much heavier that the frame rails as are the backup plates and Grade-8 bolts.
A few years ago I was rear ended on the freeway by TWO Nissan/ Toyota trucks, I stopped them from 70-MPH to a dead stop doing only rather minor damage to my truck but totaling both of theirs.
The impact shifted my frame rails 3mm which was easily pulled back.
The rear of my truck is also protected with 8-ton military pintle hitch mounted on a solid steel 6" drop hitch.
I have seen many full size trucks primarily Chevy's driving around with rear end damage with the hitch being bent downward and all twisted like a pretzel
If you are going to use the hitch in an equalizing mode it needs to be strong because up to 1200 lbs of tounge weight needs to be loaded into your frame.
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/default.aspx
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/pro...D=1055+&part=0
Like everything else there seems to be some hitches made of a cheaper quality to the unsuspecting public.
Jim
I have a Draw-Tite Class-V on mine and it has protected my truck well, it is also bolted to the frame.
The torque tube is welded to the side pieces, some I have seen are only bolted together.
The steel of the hitch is actually much heavier that the frame rails as are the backup plates and Grade-8 bolts.
A few years ago I was rear ended on the freeway by TWO Nissan/ Toyota trucks, I stopped them from 70-MPH to a dead stop doing only rather minor damage to my truck but totaling both of theirs.
The impact shifted my frame rails 3mm which was easily pulled back.
The rear of my truck is also protected with 8-ton military pintle hitch mounted on a solid steel 6" drop hitch.
I have seen many full size trucks primarily Chevy's driving around with rear end damage with the hitch being bent downward and all twisted like a pretzel
If you are going to use the hitch in an equalizing mode it needs to be strong because up to 1200 lbs of tounge weight needs to be loaded into your frame.
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/default.aspx
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/pro...D=1055+&part=0
Like everything else there seems to be some hitches made of a cheaper quality to the unsuspecting public.
Jim
My 92 has a ripped frame from being overloaded and letting the front crush up and rear pull down. I'll be cutting the rear section of my parts truck frame to double up the rear hitch area. I was going to use a curt but after seeing how that drawtite mounts that looks better. May beef it up a little more but thats the current plan.
#15
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I was hauling heavy with my '91. The Class V hitch buckled on the side plates, and it bent the truck's frame down. It even pulled the bolts through the frame with the square washers.
I have it fixed better than ever now. Writeup is on TDR. I don't know if I'm allowed to link to it, but you can search under "1st Gen Suspension Improvements".
--Eric
I have it fixed better than ever now. Writeup is on TDR. I don't know if I'm allowed to link to it, but you can search under "1st Gen Suspension Improvements".
--Eric