Help solve an annoying oil leak - Dodge Diesel

bigragu · 05-26-2005, 02:47 PM

Back when I purchased the truck 1 1/2 years ago(I am the 3rd owner), I noticed an oil leak coming from I believe in between the oil pan and the T.C. housing. When the previous owner pulled up to my driveway for the pre-inspection before sale (flat area), not a drop. I always park it right up on my garage apron which has a slight rise for water drainage and that's when the leak shows up. I've since then backed the truck onto the same spot, now causing the front end of the truck to pitch downwards, and the leaks go away. What's up? I know someone else with this same 1st Gen. truck with the same problem....is this normal? Please advise. Carmyne

Tuckerdee · 05-26-2005, 03:13 PM

Most likely a rear main seal on the engine. Mine was bad. Would drip 1/4 cup oil everytime I stopped. The guy I bought mine from was a tech at Cummins Rocky Mountain, so he agreed to fix it 2 months after I bought it. (Nice guy, huh?) It only took him about 2 hours. On the 2wd trucks it's just a matter of disconnecting the transmission and TQ, sliding it back, take the flexplate off, then replacing the seal. I think about $75 in parts. Sure wish I would have had him put in a new TQ at the time!!

apwatson50 · 05-26-2005, 03:20 PM

I would agree rear main seal, its a slow leak now, give it another couple weeks, it'll run out of there. Seal kit from car quest was about $60, and the trans, has to at least be moved back, if not removed.

bigragu · 05-26-2005, 09:58 PM

Is this something a person armed with a '93 CTD shop manual and better than average shop skills can tackle? Look at the time factor/specialty tools involved before answering this question... doing it yourself is not about savin' money when you have kids and a to do list at home. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doin' this stuff, but I dislike havin' to run around looking for the "right" tool for the job, ff'n somethin' up, you all know what I mean. Please advise. Carmyne

JD730 · 05-27-2005, 09:16 AM

I did my rear main when I had the trans out for the swap, the seal is easy imo, either pull the old one out of the housing or take the housing off and push it out.
The new seal came with an installation ring and installation tool and a little paper explaining how to install it.

The problem you might have is getting the transmission out or slide back far enough to get in there and work. Without a trans jack I would not want to do it.

Mike

apwatson50 · 05-27-2005, 10:49 AM

Biggest thing is removing the trans, normal tools needed, once the trans is removed maybe 1/2 an hour to actually do the seal. The seal I got came with an installation ring also.

05-26-2005, 03:13 PM	#2
Tuckerdee Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Brighton, CO Posts: 759 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Most likely a rear main seal on the engine. Mine was bad. Would drip 1/4 cup oil everytime I stopped. The guy I bought mine from was a tech at Cummins Rocky Mountain, so he agreed to fix it 2 months after I bought it. (Nice guy, huh?) It only took him about 2 hours. On the 2wd trucks it's just a matter of disconnecting the transmission and TQ, sliding it back, take the flexplate off, then replacing the seal. I think about $75 in parts. Sure wish I would have had him put in a new TQ at the time!! __________________ 92 D250 Intercooled: Ext. Cab LE, Quad Cab Seats, Auto Engine: Fuel Screw in 2 turns, AFC "adjusted" (smoke screw flush, fuel pin max., spring set for clean burning), BHAF, EGT (Pre-Turbo) & Boost Gauges Exhaust: 16 cm housing, Banks 3.5" exhaust Tranny: Hughes TC, TransGo Kit, Mag-Hytek DD Pan, Aux. Cooler w/fan, Spin-on Filter, TPS "pot" fix, Tranny Temp Gauge, 2nd Gen. Shift Lever Others: Hourmeter, ISSPRO TTM Shutdown Module, Firestone Heavy Duty Air Bags, compressor

05-26-2005, 03:20 PM	#3
apwatson50 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Golden, Colorado Posts: 2,865 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I would agree rear main seal, its a slow leak now, give it another couple weeks, it'll run out of there. Seal kit from car quest was about $60, and the trans, has to at least be moved back, if not removed. __________________ 92 Black W250 295K, getrag, valair 13" ceramic clutch, dana 80 3.54, HX40, DDP3 injectors, high pressure piston LP, custom IP, M&H M2 fuel pin, PS charge air cooler, 4 in exhaust w/ brake, gauges(and lots of them) Leece Neville power. 89 FUMMINS F350 4x4 crew cab, VE 12V, A518 trans, ford np205 t-case, PS cooler, hybrid HX35, low pressure piston LP http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/c...Truck%20stuff/

05-27-2005, 09:16 AM	#5
JD730 Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Belvidere, NJ Posts: 2,500 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I did my rear main when I had the trans out for the swap, the seal is easy imo, either pull the old one out of the housing or take the housing off and push it out. The new seal came with an installation ring and installation tool and a little paper explaining how to install it. The problem you might have is getting the transmission out or slide back far enough to get in there and work. Without a trans jack I would not want to do it. Mike __________________ Mike That's not a leak, its the external lubrication system. The "Rattle Box" 93 W250 Silver Club Cab, 47RH rebuilt by me with Goerend goodies, HTB2 62/12, hydroboost brakes, plus a few other things, 424/1039, 1/4 mile 14.00@94.3mph 2000 2500, 4x4, 6 speed, 12 valve, Homemade WH1C/HX55W twins 96 2500, Club Cab, AT 93 W250 Green Club Cab, AT 92 Club Cab, AT 07 2500, Quad Cab, 5.9L, Auto (Dad's new ride) John Deere Two Cylinders, too many to list.

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05-26-2005, 09:58 PM	#4
bigragu Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 808 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Is this something a person armed with a '93 CTD shop manual and better than average shop skills can tackle? Look at the time factor/specialty tools involved before answering this question... doing it yourself is not about savin' money when you have kids and a to do list at home. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doin' this stuff, but I dislike havin' to run around looking for the "right" tool for the job, ff'n somethin' up, you all know what I mean. Please advise. Carmyne

05-27-2005, 10:49 AM	#6
apwatson50 Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Golden, Colorado Posts: 2,865 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Biggest thing is removing the trans, normal tools needed, once the trans is removed maybe 1/2 an hour to actually do the seal. The seal I got came with an installation ring also.