I'm seriously considering getting a used slide in truck camper. I am planning on using it for hunting, so nothing fancy....

I've found a 89 Lance but I don't know much about it.

I may or may not be towing the jeep behind it.

Truck doesn't have camper package or tiedowns.

I don't have any welding tools out here, so help me get set up with that in mind.

Thanks as always and Photos are always great!

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TOW RIG:
'98 24v LB 4X4 DTT auto, FASS, 4" Str8 pipe, ATS Manifold, AFE, Edge Comp, Boost Trans Pyro, Posi, Thuren Trac Bar, 285 Wrangler Silent Armor, 2 15" RF HE2 subs under backseat, In-Dash DVD, Remote Start, Tow Mirrors (always UP), and 50 marker lights all LEDs!!!

TOY:
'93 YJ Wrangler, Dana 44/60, ARB/Detroit, 4.56 37" MTR's Beadlocks, No windsheild top or doors needed! Custom Paint!! FULL CUSTOM ROLLCAGE! Custom Seats. New Custom Dash on the way! All By ME!

PICTURES in Gallery!

If you want a turnkey setup that works REALLY well, check out www.torklift.com. I have the frame mounted tie downs and the fast guns. They are not cheap, but they are good. I spent more (on the tie down set up) than I wanted to for my first camper, but I figure this way I am covered when I upgrade down the road.

The frame mounted tie downs require threading some bolts through the frame, and the tool they give you for that is SUPER SLICK. The camper does not move (flex) at all, and I really like that. I also got the locks for the fast guns. People less honest than you or I have been known to help themselves to these spendy tie downs.

You did not indicate how large the Lance camper is. If you want to tow the Jeep, the SuperHitch allows you to mount an "extended" camper (that hangs off the tailgate) and still tow fairy heavy load. Most stinger hitch extensions sacrifice load for length. The longer the stinger, the less you can tow. SuperHitch gives you enough capacity to still pull a Jeep trailer on an extension.

Last thought...if the price is right, buy the camper. But if you start shopping around, look at slide-ins that pop up. I was pretty sure I wanted a hard side (with a slide out and full bathroom), but I got a screaming deal on my pop top. Now I am convinced that's the way to go. It's fast to set up and there is SO MUCH LESS wind resistance...it's worth a couple of mpg.

That's my $.02

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'05 3500 Dually 6sp w/Texson 800 slide-in camper...a significant towing upgrade from the old 'burban, and a helluva lot more comfortable to sleep in!

'81 CJ-8 Scrambler...caged, twin sticked, locked and loaded!

I cant give you much advise, but I am looking to do the same with mine shortly. (tired of sleeping on the ground!) Ive been looking at Denver Craigslist and there are quite a few to choose from. I want a hardside, 8-8.5ft in length so I dont have to use a hitch extension. The Torklifts look nice, but pricey. My buddy in CA just bought a 9.5ft lance for his F350. He used the happy jac style mounts and his bumper bent from the tension from the tie downs. My truck is similar to yours, but I do have the camper package...after talking to some rv guys and some internet reading I want to stay under 2K lbs for the weight of the camper, cause the single rear wheel.

Sorry Im no help, but be sure to post pics of the new rig.

Scott

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'98 2500 12V CC LB 4X4
Laramie SLT, NV4500, 3.54s, LS Dif, Black/silver
KDP killed, AFE CAI, Bridgestone AT 285/75/16 E
Luverne steps, Leer Browning ed. shell, Defiant Steering Box Support, Luk Pro Gold Clutch

SOLD '04.5 2500 QC SB 4X4
SLT 48RE 3.73s, LS, Atl. Blue
Toyo OC AT 285/75/17 on stock steelies
Debadged, Line-X, Isspro Pyro, Boost, Tranny, Fuel pressure (LP) Guages, GDP Walbro 392 Lift Pump

I added Pacbrake Air Bags and a Hellwig Sway bar to my 3rd gen....and it helped quite a bit....for towing, while loaded. I usually have an ATV and a partial load of firewood in the bed of the truck....then a 1700lb tongue weight toyhauler behind me. Truck sits perfectly level and handles it great.

Im sure with a truck camper...the air bags would be a must.

..

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2004.5 SRW 3500 Black 4x4 SLT CTD QCLB Blacked Out w/OE PC Wheels

RanchHand w/ Milemarker 12K, Frontier Rear Bumper
Putnam XDR Class V hitch, Hellwig, Pacbrake air bags
Leveled w/2'' HBS, Power Wagon Flares,
Nitto TGs 285/75/17
AFE Stg 2, Magnaflow
GDP Walbro 392 w/2 micron
Smarty, TS MP8
Lazarsmith Traction Bars
James Trans Tech DTT 48RE w/DTT Triple Disc TC

506/1057 6-13-09

13.27 at 8390lbs, 10-10-09

2004 WW FS2600 Toyhauler

SAC #73, Goofball #6, T.O.M. Dec. 2008

I tend to overkill, and this is yet another example. The slide-in pop top weighs only 1400lbs. That's because there's no bathroom (which I've discovered I would hardly ever use anyway...most campgrounds have a shower house with flush toilets, or more primitive outhouses...and I hate cleaning the bathroom at home...why would I want another bathroom to keep clean?) and no exterior slides.

With a dually set up, the rear end hardly sags at all. In fact, the little camper looks a little funny on the big truck. Even with the trailer (no hitch extension since the camper is 8' in an 8' bed), the truck hardly notices it's there. The duals are also nice in a cross wind. Very little sway because of the lower profile and wider stance. A bigger camper on a SRW would certainly benefit from airbags (so factor that into the cost of a hardside).

That said, this little camper feels bigger when the top is up. It's comfortable for sleeping (down to 20 degrees...I ran my little propane heater), keeps my beer cold (tiny fridge, but it beats buying ice and draining water), and gets me out of the downpour when needed.

I mentioned the mpg factor of the pop top. I have about a 2 mpg drop with the camper on. A hardside is taller, so it would have more wind resistance and would deliver even worse mileage.

OK, I'll be honest. I'm still planning on getting a hardside at some point. But for now, I'm a happy camper. I've gone from a tent and sleeping pad, to a tent and folding cot (a big upgrade...really), to the back of a Suburban, to a pop top camper. Life is good!

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'05 3500 Dually 6sp w/Texson 800 slide-in camper...a significant towing upgrade from the old 'burban, and a helluva lot more comfortable to sleep in!

'81 CJ-8 Scrambler...caged, twin sticked, locked and loaded!

Camper wise, look closely for any signs of water leaks. That, and the cooling unit on the fridge, would be the two things that could be high $$$ to fix.

I second the suggestion to go with torklift. I'm just not a big fan of ancoring that much weight to the sheet metal of the front of the box or the stake pockets...

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06 Inferno Ram dually Laramie 4x4, stick, jake, B&W, BrakeSmart.

Tows 394F Patio Hauler w/ Honda 500 Foreman, and 680 Rincon.

Also, With 3750lbs rated E tires on the rear, what's the max weight you would suggest for a camper? I am planning on putting air bags on it....

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TOW RIG:
'98 24v LB 4X4 DTT auto, FASS, 4" Str8 pipe, ATS Manifold, AFE, Edge Comp, Boost Trans Pyro, Posi, Thuren Trac Bar, 285 Wrangler Silent Armor, 2 15" RF HE2 subs under backseat, In-Dash DVD, Remote Start, Tow Mirrors (always UP), and 50 marker lights all LEDs!!!

TOY:
'93 YJ Wrangler, Dana 44/60, ARB/Detroit, 4.56 37" MTR's Beadlocks, No windsheild top or doors needed! Custom Paint!! FULL CUSTOM ROLLCAGE! Custom Seats. New Custom Dash on the way! All By ME!

PICTURES in Gallery!

Im gonna guess the rear of your truck weighs around 3K lbs. or so. So subtract that weight from the rear tire ratings.......and that leaves around 4500lbs. or so of carrying capacity if you are going to the limits of the rear tires. Some of that weight will be on the fronts too....but subtracting truck weight from tire capacity will give you an idea of where you stand.

You can go to a local CAT scales and weigh your truck and get an idea.

..

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2004.5 SRW 3500 Black 4x4 SLT CTD QCLB Blacked Out w/OE PC Wheels

RanchHand w/ Milemarker 12K, Frontier Rear Bumper
Putnam XDR Class V hitch, Hellwig, Pacbrake air bags
Leveled w/2'' HBS, Power Wagon Flares,
Nitto TGs 285/75/17
AFE Stg 2, Magnaflow
GDP Walbro 392 w/2 micron
Smarty, TS MP8
Lazarsmith Traction Bars
James Trans Tech DTT 48RE w/DTT Triple Disc TC

506/1057 6-13-09

13.27 at 8390lbs, 10-10-09

2004 WW FS2600 Toyhauler

SAC #73, Goofball #6, T.O.M. Dec. 2008

I had a 8.6 lance camper on my CTD, I used for hunting trips. Lance is the best. The roof of My Lance was one big sheet of aluminum over solid thick plywood, that sucker was stong and no leaks, just had to reseal aroumd the front cabover window alittle. I bought a Honda 2000 generator so I could run the heater in long cold weather nights, and stored it in the bathroom. My camper had the one side battery also and could charge off the truck alternator, but a generator is realy a must for running the camper heater all night. I had the happyjack tiedowns, work great, I have the factory double rear spring package with rear swaybar and worked out great, nice and stable stock. My other truck I had to get some air bags. If you dont have the double heavy load springs, I would get airbags for it. Then you are good to go.
I sold my lance and got a 5th wheel. Now I can loose the trailer when I camp and drive the truck around without that big camper on it. If you have a jeep to pull thats a hot set up. Love the 5th wheel trailer

Ill add if you are a nonsmoker, look inside the camper you want to buy, if its all brown/yellowish color a smoker owned it, if its all clean and white a nonsmoker owned it.

Oh another thing. Dont off road too much with a camper on the truck swaying back and forth as you go over ruts and stuff, go very slow, its easy to rip the camper eye hook right out of the lance camper. Yep I did that. the happy jack tiedown mounted on the truck bed are way stronger than the eye bolts and wood attached to the camper itself

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'99 4x4 2500 long. bed, 3.54 gears, Auto, SMR shift kit, Isspro Fuel,pyro,trans temp, No banjos, Reese 16k 5er, 2 german short hairs in the back seat, 25' Aljo 5th wheel.