ster1

Hi Guys, Looking for some guidance here. I've been lurking around and found LOTS of good information, but nothing that applies EXACTLY to my situation, so at the risk of discussing something that's already been discussed:

I have a 2007 2500 5.9 48RE with about 110k on the clock. I got the truck in lieu of some payroll old company didn't give me. I know the truck's history; it's had a hard life of towing in the mountains at highway speed, hard accelerations etc.

So now that I own it, I want it to be right. My problem is it seems to be slipping in first. I have to rev it up to around 2500 rpm to get it to move, which it does. When I get to higher speed, it shifts to the other gears just fine, and reverse is fine also. It just seems to be first / low / whatever. It runs up the in the mountains all day long once it gets going. And again, reverse is a-ok.

I dropped the pan and VB this weekend (I dropped the VB because it was hard to shift out of park and the problem was the "sawtooth" gear on the VB), and the fluid was dark(ish) and burnt. Replaced the filter, added about 6 qts of new atf+4, and problem is still there.

So, what do you all think, am I stuck with a rebuild, or is there a chance an adjustment would help? Thank you for all your help!

no_6_oh_no

It could be TC, forward clutches, OD direct clutches. It could be a sticky VB or valve in the VB. It could just be wear and low pressures until you rev the engine.

From the descrption the goody has been taken out the transmission. If you want it reliable start looking for a rebuild or replace.

cdennyb

If you can rebuild it yourself, a basic parts bill less the fluid cost will be around $200. Since it's burnt fluid in there and no doubt other foreign material, (clutch, bushing, etc.) you'll probably do it right by putting in another converter as well at the time of rebuild, I know I would. Converters, OEM replacements are about $600-800 around here.
Now, if you've caught it in time, chances are good most if not all of your "hard parts" will be fine. Clean, inspect, and reinstall with new o-rings, lip seals, bushing, clutches and steels and while you have it out, throw in a VB kit as well. You can search the board for other threads about the "best" replacement trans if you don't want to get your hands that dirty. The pressure solenoid is a must change to eliminate the hunting from 1-2 on take off.
I suspect the forward clutches are toast, you're just making things worse by driving it... stop now and get it torn down and fixed or there'll be far less good stuff left in it to reuse.

ster1

Yup, agreed. Tranny is coming out next week. I'm going to buy all the parts from a local trans shop, with a new standard TC everything is going to cost about a grand. Add a few hunny for unforseen extras like that 1-2 solenoid, but I'm going to do the work myself. Except for perhaps the OD housing. I don't want to mess with that monster spring in there. I'll take that part to a shop for overhaul.

JRAPTOR04

Hey, I live in Brighton.

JRAPTOR04

I dont know what happened, but my first post didnt put everything I said, but, I'm running a triple disk from a local shop with a low stall and love it. He builds these things for everyone else and they put there own name on it. He will even walk you through his shop if you want to see how it works, He is in Arvada and if you want his number let me know.

ster1

Jraptor I think you got dinged for advertising I've read the problems others have had with mis-matching the trans build to the tc. Such as heavy-duty trans with stock tc or vice versa. I'm going as close to stock build as I can so my tc will be stock too. I don't do a lot of towing or racing or stupid stuff like that so I figure it'll last another 100k or so.

ster1

Err not that towing is stupid I was referring to racing a 3/4 ton truck as being stupid

JRAPTOR04

Well, oops, wasnt trying to advertise. Just saying what I was using. LOL Thats cool you want to keep it stock

ster1

I actually took a video I'll be posting soon on youtube about the disassembly, and sharing with the group. The only damaged clutch I found was the front or direct clutch. According to my manual, the front clutch is only engaged in reverse, 3rd and 4th. Reverse was ok, as was 3rd and 4th. In first gear, the only clutch engaged is the rear or forward clutch; I expected that one to be cheese. That clutch was almost perfect. Even measured within spec(!). The TC only locks in 3rd and 4th gear, so I don't see how that could have been the problem. The pump measured well within spec (the trans is still apart, so no pressure measurements yet). It's not a band adjustment, bands don't come into play in first gear. I just thought of something though: when you're driving "normally" just starting out, don't you start out in 2nd gear? It'll drop into first only when you romp on the gas right? Its been awhile since I've driven an automatic. Is a normal start in second? If that's so, then my whole problem could have been a front band adjustment after all. What do y'all think?

no_6_oh_no

Direct clutch always takes a beating in a diesel application. It is only allpied in drive and OD, but, that is when the rpms are lowest hence the apply pressures are lower. With the TC clutch locked in OD ALL if the TQ has to run thru the direct clutch and forward clutches to move the truck. The direct clutch is also the most problematic because of the way the apply pressure is routed to it. Leaks in the front servo impact how much fluid it gets and it always slipping a little on shifts. With high TQ it slips a little more.

The forward clutches have a better apply circuit and are always on in forward gears so there is less slippage. The key fixes to make the trans live longer is get the apply pressures up at lower rpms, minimize the transition to drive by shift timing adjustment, and eliminating leaks in the front servo. Doesn't hurt to replace the stock Borg clutches with ones that will take more heat.

Forward clutches spend most of their time applied with 1 and 2 gear reductions so the leverage is better. By the time you get into drive and OD the TQ hammer is usually less so they last longer. What kills them is brake stands. If they slip under boosted launches and brake stands it welds them together.

From a complete stop the truck should always start in 1st gear. If it doesn't it slips the front band trying to start out and there goes 2nd gear. Shuttle shift, 2nd and 3rd gear starts are death on a transmission, especially with a TQ diesel in front of them.

Once you fix the direct clutch pack then the front band becomes problematic. Relace it with a rigid band and get a billet front servo with better seals or you will be taking it apart again.

ster1

I made some video of the tear down, for your enjoyment. Re-assembly videos will follow in a week or so, when I can buy all my parts.

3 part video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwSKYnbNHMc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfUUwEJEltI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekb85vqjt8g

enjoy

nickg

you might want to re think using a stock TC, they are prone to failure even when stock, everything from internal failure to the mounting tabs (flywheel to TC mount bolts) shearing off.
get a single billet TC will outperform the stocker in every way, and its usually about the same as a stock one

I spent 500$ for a rebuild kit/the tranny rebuild manual/and had OD assembled for me, also couple billet servo's thrown in.

be VERY aware of trying to remove the snap ring in the OD section, it has an 800psi spring in there and unless you put it in a press, you might get hurt...I just had the tranny shop dissamble and reassemble my OD (cost 80$), then I bolted it on to my tranny after I rebuilt the center section


good luck

ster1

My original TC lasted 110K tough miles, so I think I'm going to go with a stock replacement. I'm waiting to see what my local guy says. I'm not going to upgrade the motor at all, it's a beast already, we'll see on that one. He did reinforce what no_6_oh_no said about the front band. It looked ok to me, but he showed me where it was flaking on the edges and no good at all. He said to go with a better band. Not necessarily a rigid band but definitely a better one. He also rebuilt that OD assembly while I waited. He also gave me some hints at what to replace anyway, he's going to give me a parts list this week (I'll share his advise), and I hope to proceed with the assembly. Fred at Kimmer Transmission in Centennial Colorado. He's the MAN!

ster1

On the advice of my guy, I went with a rebuilt OE torque converter. If i plan on monkeying with that motor, I might have to go to a billet one but for now, a stock unit will do. He also advised me to get (in addition to a standard rebuild kit) a high energy front band, a governor pressure solenoid, governor pressure sensor, 3-4 accumulator spring, and a manual valve (most of that I heard from you guys, cheers!). All that with the labor to rebuild the OD housing, the TCC / OD solenoid I damaged on removal, and some steel plates I needed replacing all cost just shy of a grand. Re-assembly to start tomorrow, I'm pretty excited to get this **** thing out of my garage.